Purchasing is not expensive, but for as many times as you'll use one most parts retailers will 'loan' (with deposit) a complete setup. I grabbed one from AutoZone last month to check the Sister In Law's SUV. Their kit turned out brand new and with every imaginable adapter and fitting. And yes, it was the pump and all I had to do was lift the back seat to expose the hatch.
Crank No Start. Spark and Fuel Pump are Good
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What am I looking for that would differentiate between the problem being the Fuel Pump vs Something else. My Vice Grip Garage school of automotive technology license taught me that if the Schrader is dry there is no pressure and the Fuel Pump is out. But that’s not the case here. A leak in the tank doesn’tThere's fuel delivery. The leak would have to be in the fuel line, and that would show as a fuel on the floor. Full transparency, I’m dreading having to drop the tank, It’s half full. I want to explore all options before changing out a working fuel pump and being back at square 1.
That's fair, but testing pressure at the zirk at crank and bleed-down is the absolute FIRST test to make, and so easy/simple to do. And two words for dropping a tank - SETUP & PREP. Basically, 2 stands and a floor jack are the only real antes, and those things pay back for themselves so many times in saved costs and time it's crazy everyone wouldn't have them already since they were 20. And I'm 100% in the 'Drop from the front' school. Brain-ded simple to unsrcew the tighteners on that end, and so easy to 'slip' the filler forward out the reardeck opening. This is alot crappier looking than it really was, as I wanted to keep the mess of absorbent where it was for a leak on the wife's SUV:
I was able to suction the tank down to ~2 gallons, and shooting a little gas out my nose brought back fond memories all the other times I've it. And you'll get the perfect opportunity to fix the common 'rotted EVAP hose':
If you're pump is original it'll 100% likely have the same very common burnt wiring like this:
Good luck, and keep us looped in how you're doing.
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Last time for me ,
If the line INSIDE the tank is loose or has a split, fuel will still run out the front when there is no resistance ( as in an open line )
Ask it to build system pressure and the fuel chooses the easy route and pushes through the split and doesn't flow forward anymore.
A really lame pump can exhibit similar symptoms.
Can flow fuel at zero pressure , will flow nothing when asked to build pressure.
Rarely bad grounds can show similar simptoms but I doubt it here.
As in bad ground , the current finds a new route to ground like, through a lamp filiment.
As it to make pressure , the draw goes up and the " new path" will not carry the load and the pump stops.
Good luck with your search.
If the line INSIDE the tank is loose or has a split, fuel will still run out the front when there is no resistance ( as in an open line )
Ask it to build system pressure and the fuel chooses the easy route and pushes through the split and doesn't flow forward anymore.
A really lame pump can exhibit similar symptoms.
Can flow fuel at zero pressure , will flow nothing when asked to build pressure.
Rarely bad grounds can show similar simptoms but I doubt it here.
As in bad ground , the current finds a new route to ground like, through a lamp filiment.
As it to make pressure , the draw goes up and the " new path" will not carry the load and the pump stops.
Good luck with your search.
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Agree with @95wagon. You're gonna have to drop the tank.
One trick to empty the tank on these cars is to disconnect the fuel filter connection, put a hose over that line and aim the hose into a gas can. There's a red jumper next to the underhood fusebox, put 12V on that and it'll turn the fuel pump on. Use that to pump the tank out.
One trick to empty the tank on these cars is to disconnect the fuel filter connection, put a hose over that line and aim the hose into a gas can. There's a red jumper next to the underhood fusebox, put 12V on that and it'll turn the fuel pump on. Use that to pump the tank out.
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my fuel pump was burning the 12 volt connector LOL then I replaced the harness connector and replaced the GM fuel pump .....
Please post the outcome of your case. I am having similar issues. Thank you!
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Will do. Fuel pressure gauge arrives today
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Or you could just drop the tank already... The pressure gauge is not going to tell you anything you don't already know.
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I will. I will work on finding that fuel pump trigger wire. I will go through all steps given by forum member. I will take all the advice I asked for. I will get over my PTSD from dropping a full tank. Ended up snapping a line on my last install.
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I was dropping the gas tank behind the bumper , two bolt straps I was using the rear diff of the jack lifted it up and then higher then sucked out the gasoline ...then drop it the tank , and take the hoses off....
I was the GM did the hoses of the rubber of the chassis metal tubes ..that picture is a mess
....the fuel pump connector is the license plate .
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That pic is a fix on an 05 Trailblazer.
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I'm closer to swapping in a carb and intake like this guy.
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Here is a video of the inlet hose running. I blew through the same hose and was able to blow through, I just looked like a trumpet player.
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The carb won’t like 0 fuel pressure either.
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my 1984 camaro berlinetta 7-10 psi...gasoline manual .of the engine fuel pump ....not electrical motor..
305 cu in 4 carb .. 1984 to today ! runs good ..
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That’s clearly enough fuel to run a
This looks like more than 0 fuel pressure to me. I added the video to my story.
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Sorry, I’m not on instagram. Just report the numbers from the fuel pressure gauge.
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