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Crank No Start. Spark and Fuel Pump are Good
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You've confirmed that the reason the engine doesn't run is that fuel is not getting through the injectors into the engine - Good
This means that either the injectors are not being told to open by the ECU or that there isn't enough fuel pressure to open the injectors when the ECU commands them open.
The injectors need a minimum fuel pressure to open - if there isn't enough pressure, they won't open just a little and the engine runs at low power when the ECU commands them open - they won't open at all. This is an "AND" scenario - you need the fuel injector commanded open by the ECU - AND - more than 45psi fuel pressure for the injector to open and deliver fuel to the engine.
Injector commanded by the ECU and less than 45 psi fuel pressure = no fuel in the engine
More than 45 psi fuel pressure, but no command from the ECU = no fuel in the engine
Injector commanded by the ECU and 45 psi of fuel pressure = fuel in the engine and it'll run
You mentioned that you have a fuel pressure gauge - what does it read with the key on/engine off? You can't tell anything by looking at the port, you need a pressure gauge to tell what the fuel pressure is.
This means that either the injectors are not being told to open by the ECU or that there isn't enough fuel pressure to open the injectors when the ECU commands them open.
The injectors need a minimum fuel pressure to open - if there isn't enough pressure, they won't open just a little and the engine runs at low power when the ECU commands them open - they won't open at all. This is an "AND" scenario - you need the fuel injector commanded open by the ECU - AND - more than 45psi fuel pressure for the injector to open and deliver fuel to the engine.
Injector commanded by the ECU and less than 45 psi fuel pressure = no fuel in the engine
More than 45 psi fuel pressure, but no command from the ECU = no fuel in the engine
Injector commanded by the ECU and 45 psi of fuel pressure = fuel in the engine and it'll run
You mentioned that you have a fuel pressure gauge - what does it read with the key on/engine off? You can't tell anything by looking at the port, you need a pressure gauge to tell what the fuel pressure is.
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The gauge doesn't move at all. Under any circumstances.
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Got it - Next step is to remove the return line and see if there is any fuel coming out of the engine going back to tank.
If so, time to check the fuel pressure regulator.
If not, it's time to drop the tank and pull the sender/pickup/pump assembly.
You mentioned that the tank is ~1/2 full - You can drain it by disconnecting the line to the engine and running that into a container similar to what you showed in the last video. Over on the right (passenger) inner fender up by/behind the fuse box, there is a single red wire hanging out about 4-6" with a black female electrical terminal on it. With the key off, use a jumper wire and connect this red wire to the positive side of the battery (or the aux post on the fuse box) and it will power the fuel pump directly.
Drop the tank as noted by others in earlier posts. With it mostly empty, it's really not that bad of a job. If things are rusty, start spraying them down with penetrating oil regularly before you start.
You questioned how the system inside the tank could be bad if there is fuel coming out up at the engine.
Imagine a garden hose connected to your house, stretched out straight, no kinks, no spray nozzle, just an open end. You turn the handle on the faucet so water flows through the hose (same as turning the key on and powering the fuel pump). Water (fuel) comes out the other end - no problem, just like the test you have run on your car with the fuel line disconnected.
Now, in the middle of the hose, take a knife and cut a foot long slit along the length of the hose and repeat the test - water (fuel) comes out the end more/less the same as it did before, right? But if you put a nozzle or your thumb on the end of the hose, it won't build any pressure because all the water (fuel) goes out the slit. This is one scenario of what may be going on inside your fuel tank.
The other possible option is an issue with the fuel pump itself - Either electrical in nature (there's voltage to the pump, but not the ability to carry a load and therefore build pressure) or the pump itself has started to fail mechanically where it can push some fuel, but not build pressure.
If so, time to check the fuel pressure regulator.
If not, it's time to drop the tank and pull the sender/pickup/pump assembly.
You mentioned that the tank is ~1/2 full - You can drain it by disconnecting the line to the engine and running that into a container similar to what you showed in the last video. Over on the right (passenger) inner fender up by/behind the fuse box, there is a single red wire hanging out about 4-6" with a black female electrical terminal on it. With the key off, use a jumper wire and connect this red wire to the positive side of the battery (or the aux post on the fuse box) and it will power the fuel pump directly.
Drop the tank as noted by others in earlier posts. With it mostly empty, it's really not that bad of a job. If things are rusty, start spraying them down with penetrating oil regularly before you start.
You questioned how the system inside the tank could be bad if there is fuel coming out up at the engine.
Imagine a garden hose connected to your house, stretched out straight, no kinks, no spray nozzle, just an open end. You turn the handle on the faucet so water flows through the hose (same as turning the key on and powering the fuel pump). Water (fuel) comes out the other end - no problem, just like the test you have run on your car with the fuel line disconnected.
Now, in the middle of the hose, take a knife and cut a foot long slit along the length of the hose and repeat the test - water (fuel) comes out the end more/less the same as it did before, right? But if you put a nozzle or your thumb on the end of the hose, it won't build any pressure because all the water (fuel) goes out the slit. This is one scenario of what may be going on inside your fuel tank.
The other possible option is an issue with the fuel pump itself - Either electrical in nature (there's voltage to the pump, but not the ability to carry a load and therefore build pressure) or the pump itself has started to fail mechanically where it can push some fuel, but not build pressure.
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that dirty gasoline is a mess yellow dark color ...then flush out the gas .. drop the tank inspect the fuel pump and the electrical connectors .. also the fuel pump filter screen ..
Are you sure the gauge is working? Try the gauge on another engine.
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I bought a faulty gauge from Harbor Freight. Double check it as suggested.
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I will check it on my truck.
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Drop the tank. Upgrade the fuel pump (walbro 255lph) and add adjustable regulator (accel or aeromotive). Set to 45psi. My car just ran like schitt when my OEM injectors went bad. If you are replacing injectors too,, don’t go cheap and replace them all (no hecho in China - unless Delco (ha!)
also, though it doesn’t sound like it in the video, but you may want review intake side for leaks or loose connectors. Loose MAF and MAP will also cause car to turn on and right back off.
also, though it doesn’t sound like it in the video, but you may want review intake side for leaks or loose connectors. Loose MAF and MAP will also cause car to turn on and right back off.
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I will get after it on Friday.
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My vote, in agreement with others, is an issue in the tank. Unfortunately.
For example, this is a fun failure mode to sort out. This allowed a fuel trickle but wouldn't build pressure. And at first glance you don't see the split. If yours has a black rubber hose like this, forget it. They fail readily. The better design is the plastic corrugated flex hose. But even those can fail too, just much less often. Also check the pump/sender interface. Or just replace the whole sender and pump.
![Coil Electrical wiring Bicycle part Gas Cable]()
For example, this is a fun failure mode to sort out. This allowed a fuel trickle but wouldn't build pressure. And at first glance you don't see the split. If yours has a black rubber hose like this, forget it. They fail readily. The better design is the plastic corrugated flex hose. But even those can fail too, just much less often. Also check the pump/sender interface. Or just replace the whole sender and pump.
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many fix it to change the rubber hose in the gas tank LOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! is a breakdown ..
plastic hose and is the OEM .....
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Got it running. I bought the fuel pump, but didn't install it. I put a couple bottle of octane booster in it over the weekend and like magic. We have a runner.
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Glad you got it running - maybe the bad gas had gummed up the fuel pump and the octane booster freed it up?
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That possible
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Octane booster fixes a no start? That's a new one on me! I guess it makes sense (sorta) if the gas is stale or gummed up with ethanol. Next steps should be either running out or pumping out that old gas and refilling with fresh.
If this happens again (no start), smack the bottom of the gas tank with a 2x4 or a big rubber hammer (hard). If it fires up, then the issue is an intermittent fuel pump and you may be in for sadness later.
Glad you got it running.
If this happens again (no start), smack the bottom of the gas tank with a 2x4 or a big rubber hammer (hard). If it fires up, then the issue is an intermittent fuel pump and you may be in for sadness later.
Glad you got it running.
Good you got it running. And good you have the pump, as well. All that's missing now is joining AAA. Unless able to prove the current pump's a replacement it's only a matter of (all too brief) time before you'll be changing it. And you won't want to feel the sorrow of the cost of a tow on top of everything else.
As membership has been a gift from my wife, ask me how I haven't experienced that. Twice now.
As membership has been a gift from my wife, ask me how I haven't experienced that. Twice now.
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Here is an update. It's starting no problem. The Fuel pressure is still an issue. It has a major lag when I hit the accelerator. Gas at the bottom of the tank was/is brown. Here is an update video.
arnoldsmind::
It's starting no problem. The Fuel pressure is still an issue.
I didn't go through the whole vid, but it's idling like ****. And about the Caprice vs. Impala SS thing, just look for the 'WX6' (or WX3 I really don't remember) trim I.D. on the trunk lid SPID. All Impala SSes are just basic Caprices, but with the upfit Impala SS trim level, just like you could get a stripper Biscayne or lil better Bel-Air various levels of options and chrome 60 years ago.
I recall you have past ptsd from a prior tank drop. Just get the car somewhere nobody can see your trepidation and finally finally just do it. Andwhy post a vid of brown gas? Just git that crud outta the tank already. And just change that MoFu fuel pump already. And finally git on wit the rest of it. It could be something else, but you already got the pump so just put it in already. And then throw more easier parts at it as called for.
Sorry it's 9 and past my bedtime. Keep checking in what's going on eh.
It's starting no problem. The Fuel pressure is still an issue.
I didn't go through the whole vid, but it's idling like ****. And about the Caprice vs. Impala SS thing, just look for the 'WX6' (or WX3 I really don't remember) trim I.D. on the trunk lid SPID. All Impala SSes are just basic Caprices, but with the upfit Impala SS trim level, just like you could get a stripper Biscayne or lil better Bel-Air various levels of options and chrome 60 years ago.
I recall you have past ptsd from a prior tank drop. Just get the car somewhere nobody can see your trepidation and finally finally just do it. Andwhy post a vid of brown gas? Just git that crud outta the tank already. And just change that MoFu fuel pump already. And finally git on wit the rest of it. It could be something else, but you already got the pump so just put it in already. And then throw more easier parts at it as called for.
Sorry it's 9 and past my bedtime. Keep checking in what's going on eh.
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