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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
I laid the parts out next to the car

Mufflers in there place parralle to there place in the car
X parralle to it's place in the car
blank piece of pipe to fill in for the 24" collector


slide it under the car with painters tape for welds :p
offstands set the height


right out of the box this stuff fits ok
but since my car is so low
the driveshaft area really REALLY needs to tuck to clear 3"
this is not the final layout this is right out of the box
notice the cant on the mufflers
later I squared things up


the collector needs to clear the x-member
and the x-member needed to go up to make room for the exhaust pipes and collector


the post x-pipe tubes need too tuck up against the drive shaft
with the X right at the driveshaft loop
the lay out is simple ... but I spent a bunch of time tweeking it to my wants

set the x up to the loop with an offstand
set the mufflers in there intended home with offstands
connect point A to point B

The final layout in painters tape looks like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
still smoken hot post welds custom Tad built 3" X-pipe system


that valve is open
The bottle is very empty


my good buddy VHT joins the party for a clean look


usually I 'm very judgemental of my own work
the fitment on this worked out great


here is the final fitment


fitment from the front underside


PIPES baby PIPES!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
any guestimates on what the motor makes with the new mods?

-ltcc
-1900 stall 9.5" edge tc to a 3500 stall 9.5" edge tc
-custom 1.3/4" long tube Tri-Ys w/ 3" collectors
-custom 3" exhaust

here is my last dyno
 

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damn, that is some amazing work! looks great, what did the summit exhaust run ya?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
damn, that is some amazing work! looks great, what did the summit exhaust run ya?
PARTS!

SUM-642130 $99 <--xpipe

HED-18701 $32 <-- unused I should have bought a 3" 180 bend instead

HOK-11430HKR 2x $25 <-- flanges

SUM-640030 $17 <--straigh pipe I used almost none!

HOK-21512HKR 2x $82 <-- out of stock many out of production

SUM-G2990 4x $6 <-- 02 bungs

two hand fulls of 3/8 16 hardware
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·

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I got lost..

How did the uncut TriY's clear the erlpan, but the modded ones didn't?

Was modding the oilpan not an option? Seems like less tearup to the headers, but more time getting the oilpan off... believe me, I know the pain of removing an oilpan..

Nice work otherwise, I wish I had your time. My TIG speaks to me, and says "I think you don't love me anymore" I tried to finish getting my motor out yesterday, but honey-do's and conf cals (6-midnight) last night killed that. I originally was online to RTP on your body mount question, but got sucked into another link at the bottom of your post. I have not even gotten around to tinkering with revising the rear suspension for a 3 link and panhard..

E-brock headers are small all around, so going bigger should help on the top end.
Hopefully it nets + Power after all that work, that would take me all winter at my current pace. I am betting 15HP, but moving peak torque around a bit as well. ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Take the pan off was not a valid option in my opinion.

Plus the pipes would still be up in my weatherhead / eaton oil lines at the distro block

I lucked out on the timing.
2 weeks off while the rest of the shop went to SEMA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
If I have time tomarrow I will shoot video / audio of the pipes from the outside :)
 

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Awesome work, I'm having a good time following this. Keep it up man!
 

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Did i hear a buzzing in the rear??? I have the same problem and i hate it!!! I think its the rear deck or something, have you figured it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
my 96 floor shifter buzzes like mad!

I made a brace for the rear deck that helped the buzzing a bunch

I will take a picture and post that for you.
 

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Very nice work Tad. I noticed that the layout for the x-pipe exhaust had center inlet mufflers but the final product has offset inlet. Was it for better tuck of the pipes from the x to the mufflers? Also, just turn downs; no tailpips? How is the interior sound level?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Very nice work Tad. I noticed that the layout for the x-pipe exhaust had center inlet mufflers but the final product has offset inlet. Was it for better tuck of the pipes from the x to the mufflers? Also, just turn downs; no tailpips? How is the interior sound level?
Oh man you get a Star for the day!
Now that is what I call paying attenion on the internet.

I ordered the first mufflers center inlet on accident!
actually backwards center in offset out.

Final is Offset inlet Offset outlet.
should be a touch quieter and deeper sounding
plus allowed for MUCH MUCH better tuck UP INTO the muffler cavity of the car.
 

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I ordered the first mufflers center inlet on accident!
actually backwards center in offset out.
Man, I hate it when I do that! Nothing worse than working on a project to find out you got the wrong stuff by mistake. Looks like you got it right and that's what counts.

What diameter is you driveshaft? Just wondering how the 3" exhaust fits with a larger d/s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Man, I hate it when I do that! Nothing worse than working on a project to find out you got the wrong stuff by mistake. Looks like you got it right and that's what counts.

What diameter is you driveshaft? Just wondering how the 3" exhaust fits with a larger d/s.
Drive shaft was one of the original GP's on the forum.
It is like 3 - 3.5" around.
I tucked everything as far as possible.

Keep in mind I raised the x-member and tail shaft almost a full inch!!
And the rear of the car is really low.
If I tuck the DS up any higher it will hit on suspension compression.

Then the pips are one index finger from the pipes and the DS tunnel.
One finger feeler gauge was the rule.

I'm trying to make time of pics from the side and new video.
 
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