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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wut up,

I did a search on using aftermarket damprs for our applications, and I come up with a few questions and a few conclusions as follows:

B-bodies have longer hub shorter pully.
96-B-body hub is lil shorter (due to crank sensor reuctor) than 94-95 but still longer than F-Y body unit.
If we use damper for F-Y body application and still use our Hub whether it be 94-95 or 96..we need to space out acc bracket so belt lines up due to the "longer" damper for F-Y body apps..due to F-Y bodies have shorter hub..longer damper.

Those where my conclusions from what i read...NOW my questions

I have Callies Racemaster crank, F-body Keyed hub actually made by Callies for this crank for high HP and blower applications..I want to run a Damper.since I have F-body Hub which is shorter than B-body..I should run F-body damper right? This would make my acc's line up right??..since the acc's bracket for F-bodies are the same as ours right? so running the "shorter" F-body hub and the "longer" F-body pully/damper..I should line up correctly...right :confused: I see the ATI unit is highly recommended, but see that SSomad uses the Jegs piece and likes it exept for the finish.

TIA
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
B-bodies have longer hub shorter pully
B-bodies have a longer hub, same pulley. Most of the remaining post relies on the notion that the F-body pulley is different, so all of this needs rethought on your part. I'm not quite sure what your end result you're looking for but here are some things I learned about this subject when I put a 94Z28 LT1 in my SS.

You are correct, the B-body crank hub is longer than the Fbody.

Both pulleys are interchangeable.(I have the B hub mated to the F pulley right now)

The accessory bracket IS NOT THE SAME. Whichever bracket you have you must use the corresponding crank hub. Theoretically someone could shim the Fbody bracket out to reach the longer B hub, but why? They're cheap enough to use the matching components and you'll know you're aligned properly.

Fbody power steering pump is more compact with the pressure fitting in a different location, which essentially prohibits the use of Fbody accessories and bracket in our car UNLESS you make a custom power steering pressure line. Again, another reason to stick with the Bbody accessory bracket and hub.

And if that wasn't enough, the alternator utilizes a slightly different auxilary(sp?) bracket to stabilize it to the engine.

Oh, the A/C compressor will sit back enough to probably cause some fitment/alignment issues with the lines.

So, my suggestion is to take your Bbody crank hub and have it keyed to the crank. This will solve all of your issues(assuming the crank snout on the Callies is the same) except choosing a damper
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