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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I put the following information on LS1tech.com hoping I would get a response but I didn't receive much information. I'd appreciate it if any tuning experts could take a look at these logs. Here is the post from LS1tech: https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1901964-data-log-review.html For some reason I can't upload the files to ISSF which is why I posted this to LS1tech instead of here to begin with. If you go to the LS1tech site you should be able to download the files there.

I recently installed a new engine in my 1994 Impala and did some data logging. Copies of the logs are attached. I would appreciate it if a few experts could take a look and let me know what you think. Here are the details on the engine:

388 cubic inches with Eagle forged crank and H beam rods. SRP flat top pistons with -5cc valve reliefs and 4 bolt splayed mains. Rings are gapped for nitrous use.
Heads are AFR 210's. They were decked a little bit to get the compression ratio to 11.67:1. The Cometic head gaskets with this setup resulted in a .039" quench.
The cam was spec'd by Lloyd Elliot - 231/243 duration on a 110 LSA with .571 / .597 intake/exhaust lift with 1.6 comp pro mag rockers.
The car has long tube headers, Accell 40lb injectors, an MSD billet opti, and an ATI Super Damper. It also has a Precision Industries 2600 stall and 3.73 gear.
The intake is an as-cast Edelbrock LT4. Throttle body is a GM stock unit which has been ported to 52mm. I know a setup like this may need a 58mm but this car is set up for much more show rather than go and after reading about a lot of the problems people have with 58's I decided I am OK with sacrificing a little power in order to have fewer idle and drivability problems. The initial tune was mail order. I have been VERY impressed with the drivability, idle quality, and overall street manners with this tune so far, especially considering this is a large cam in my opinion for a heavy car with only a 2600 stall. This thing runs like a BEAST. However, I don't know how to look at the logs and determine if the tune is spot-on or not.

I also have a Nitrous Outlet plate kit and plan on using a 150 - 200 shot once the tuning is confirmed to be in line. I would appreciate if any experts could review the logs and let me know what you think. Also, is there a way to look at the logs and determine if a 58mm throttle body would increase power without causing drivability issues? I know too much vacuum at WOT indicates a restriction in the intake tract but I don't see anything in the data log that points this out.


Thanks,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The only thing I picked up on on the excel log was some knock retard around 1500 RPM but it went away and didn't return. I didn't see any knock retard at high RPM. I am wondering if the low speed knock was false.
 

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You won't be able to do much else with the tune without getting it on rollers and having it tuned in real-time. A mail-order tune can only get you "close" - and that's where you appear to be.
 

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Use eehack analyze there are some things you need to address.
It looks very lean @ lower rpm.
Big split on blms left/right in places.
Some knock retard going on pulling up to 9* sometimes.

I'm no expert on tuning the LT1 maybe post on gearhead-efi forums.
Some very knowledgeable helpful guys on there that are good with LT1.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses.

For some reason I can no longer use eehack. It gives an error and closes each time i open it. I uninstalled and downloaded again with the same results. Frustrating. I can see why tuner's don't want to deal with LT1's anymore. I have 4 data logs saved but I can't view any of them.

I had great luck with Datamaster in the past but it appears that program is no longer available. I can't find a download link anywhere online. Anyone know how I can obtain it? I really liked eehack for the short time that it worked for me, but apparently that is no longer an option.
 

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All of the split BLM's are at or near idle. Very common issue for cammed LT1's. When I looked at the log, it was running rich between 1000 and 3000. I don't recall it leaning out anywhere. Rich is usually the default mode for a mail-order tune because it's easier, and way less potential to break ****. I also noticed that it was rich at almost a direct overlap to the knock scope.

As I said earlier, your mail-order tune got you in the neighborhood that your car needs to be in. To get it to your door, you will want to get her on the rollers and dial it in.

Your eehack problems are likely due to the cable. Cheapo cables will work fine on TTS and Scan9495 but fail on eehack. Reddevilriver is the leading company for ****ty cables.

If you're inclined, you can download TunerPro for free and start trying to adjust things yourself. Maybe dial-back timing in the 700-2700 and see what happens. I pulled 10 degrees out of mine in the same MAP/RPM range to get my knock counts down. The tuners had put in 40-43 degrees of timing there and my car did not like it. To be sure, pull your plugs and look for flecks on the porcelain, which would indicate real knock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the help. I was able to locate a guy who still does Dyno tuning on lt1's but he's about an hour and a half away. Based on what you see on the data logs, is it safe to drive the car there for tuning?
 

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Looked @ log closer. You have some weirdness going on.
Lots of error codes popping up momentarily and data way off sometimes?

How is your wiring? Good clean grounds? Need to take a good look @ it.

ERR42(EST GROUNDED)
ERR14(Coolant Temperature High)
ERR70(A/C CLUTCH RELAY FAULT )
ERR98(TORQUE DELIVERED CIRCUIT FAULT)
MALF43A(MALF 43A ACTIVE)
ERR97(4K PULSES CIRCUIT FAULT (VSS))
ERR12(NO REFERENCE PULSES)
ERR24(OUTPUT SPEED LOW)
ERR81(SHIFT B SOLENOID FAULT)
ERR11(MALF INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) FAULT)
ERR79(TRANSMISSION OVER TEMPERATURE)

These are only from a small viewing @ the beginning of the log.
Does your check engine light work? Did it blink @ all during log session?

 

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Discussion Starter #10
The check engine light works but has not been on. I'll contact eehack and see why I am getting this error. Without being able to read my own logs there's not much I can do. I may just trailer it to the tuner to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I sent these logs to pcmforless who did the mail order tune but they refused to even look at it unless the log is taken in datamaster or freescan.
 

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The check engine light works but has not been on. I'll contact eehack and see why I am getting this error. Without being able to read my own logs there's not much I can do. I may just trailer it to the tuner to be safe.
Withh all those random errors and weird data @ times I would not try to have it tuned.
Something is wrong and needs to be resolved.
 

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Looked @ log closer. You have some weirdness going on. Lots of error codes popping up momentarily and data way off sometimes? How is your wiring? Good clean grounds? Need to take a good look @ it.
A crappy OBD cable will inject a lot of garbage into the datastream


I sent these logs to pcmforless who did the mail order tune but they refused to even look at it unless the log is taken in datamaster or freescan.
Amazing you even got something that runs from them. That place is well known for ripping people off. From what I can see, your tune is driveable - there's nothing there that screams 'danger to manifold!'. The knock counts are high - but are you hearing ping at all? If not, it could be false knock, buuuuut it could also be real knock that you just can't hear.


What heat range plugs are you running? At 11.5:1 you should be about two heat ranges cooler than stock. Also, your 52mm is most likely doing just fine on that mill.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got the cable from moates.net.

I haven't heard any knock at all and the car drives great with no problems. It idles good when warm and cold.

I was running NGK TR6's when the data logs was taken but I have NGK BR7ES's that just arrived. Those are 2 heat ranges cooler than stock and it is what was recommended by Nitrous Outlet.
 

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I am running those same plugs. They will help with the knock counts, but you still may have to get in those cells and pull some timing out. I am surprised that you're getting those errors with a Moates, so it's probably not the cable. Make sure everything - and I mean everything - is otherwise inactive/off on the laptop you are using. Including your firewall and antivirus. The last thing to try is to update the FTDI drivers, as something may have gone sideways.


Once you get the knock counts down (if at all) then go in and start looking at fueling. Pull the timing out, flash, re-log the car and see what you see. If you don't see any real change by pulling 10 degrees out, then its probably false knock. For fueling, once the laughing gas comes into the game, I'm out of my league.
 

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Broken definitions file for eehack. Under settings/advanced, you'll see it there. Search around for a new replacement file - they're all over the web.




 

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From Steve posted on his site...

broken definition file, there are three ways to go here.

first, to reset the settings completely. in your start menu, my installer installs a ‘reset all settings’ shortcut (in the ‘advanced’ submenu). you can use that.

second, you could find the key in the registry at HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\EEHack\fbodytech.com and fix it (or remove that one key so it’ll default)

third, simply rename or move the definition that’s crashing it, then fire it up. eehack, on being unable to find a definition file, will lock itself up and prompt you to find a new one.

…i intended to do that re-selection routine when you run into an ‘invalid’ file too, but never got around to it…
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been trying to get eehack working for weeks. I started by uninstalling and reinstalling but that didn't work. The link in Steve's post is dead. How do I find the definition file that is crashing it?
 
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