[Uninsurable]

I am getting ready to do a complete rebuild on the front end of my 96, and I am looking at shock options, and I have run across an entire category of shocks on rock auto that I know nothing about, and I searched several different terms on the forums, and have come up with nothing, but there are “load assist shocks” which are a standard gas shock with a helper spring over the top of it, it almost looks like a coilover. Does anybody have any info on these? Quality, longevity, etc.?

 

[Fred Kiehl]

You should not use them on the front. The lower arm mounts are not designed to take any spring loads. They will fail.

 

[96 Black]

'Follow'ing here just to see how this shakes out. First some questions, then some thoughts.
I'm presuming "a complete rebuild on the front end" is everything from loaded A-arms (at least the lowers and maybe uppers if over 200k miles), rod ends, centerlink, Indler arm, and everything in between. New shocks are a given, but what about the current coils constitutes that the need for the assist? You don't state whether your '96 is a base Caprice (which may or may not be FE1) or the SS trim, but if the later they'll be the FE2? FE3? IDR. So, even if a little sacked out by now, that's not a bad thing having at some rake on an SS.

Thoughts: Unless 4-wheeling in the boonies, or mounting a trailer hitch in front, the look of a 'lifted' Chevy sedan would seem to be a good case for, "Careful What You Ask For".

And just now caught Fred's 'perfectly valid' reply. So on top of my 'really not a good idea' you can add his 'just don't do it'. If there's something you don't like about your current springs, replace them.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Agreed without reservation on the front springs.
Can't remember the last time the ISSF talked about or recommended Gabriel load assist shocks, or Gabriel shocks, or load assist shocks on the front.

There MAY be a reason for helper springs in back of a wagon, IFF your wagon carries LOTS of extra weight in back?
Otherwise, can't think of a reason why helper springs are needed in back either.

There are SO many springs to choose from for tailoring ride height, and almost as many shocks too.
Decide what kind of stance, ride quality, and handling you're interested in, and go from there.

Noticed Bilstein shocks missing from your pic. They're not cheap, but they last.

 

[Uninsurable]

'Follow'ing here just to see how this shakes out. First some questions, then some thoughts.
I'm presuming "a complete rebuild on the front end" is everything from loaded A-arms (at least the lowers and maybe uppers if over 200k miles), rod ends, centerlink, Indler arm, and everything in between. New shocks are a given, but what about the current coils constitutes that the need for the assist? You don't state whether your '96 is a base Caprice (which may or may not be FE1) or the SS trim, but if the later they'll be the FE2? FE3? IDR. So, even if a little sacked out by now, that's not a bad thing having at some rake on an SS.

Thoughts: Unless 4-wheeling in the boonies, or mounting a trailer hitch in front, the look of a 'lifted' Chevy sedan would seem to be a good case for, "Careful What You Ask For".

And just now caught Fred's 'perfectly valid' reply. So on top of my 'really not a good idea' you can add his 'just don't do it'. If there's something you don't like about your current springs, replace them.

It is a base 96 caprice, incredibly saggy springs front and rear. You are correct in your assessment of the front end rebuild.
I am going to be lowering the car a bit front and rear. I have loaded tubular lower control arms, and delco loaded upper arms, along with a combination of TRW and delco steering components, as well as moog 5660 springs.

i wasn’t sold on the load assist shocks, I had just never seen them before, and was curious about them. i am looking to lower the rear about an inch to two inches below stock Impala ss ride height.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

If the springs are saggy you should not need lowering springs. Just get some good shocks, and you will be good to go.

 

[Uninsurable]

If the springs are saggy you should not need lowering springs. Just get some good shocks, and you will be good to go.

Haha. That sounds like an interesting workaround Fred. I’d be a little concerned what type of handling conditions that could result in during spirited driving.
Stiff shocks, a big swaybar, and boxed extended length control arms with stock saggy base model springs, would perhaps get me the look I want, but wouldn’t the weakened fatigued springs lead to the shocks wearing out prematurely?

 

[Fred Kiehl]

Springs don't really wear out. In fact, they are probably 98% of the original strength. You perceive them being worn out only because you have a preconceived notion that they will. The springs are somewhat soft to begin with to give the smooth ride. Anti-roll bars are a better investment, unless you are inclined to lower the car substantially. Just be careful lowering it. You must remove 0.030 shim from all 4 stacks for every 1/2" of spring drop. Measure the top of the wheel opening to either the top of the rim, or center of the axle, and write it down. Subtract the new from the old, and you have the drop. You might want to measure it, and compare the original with another stock car for comparison to determine if you really have sagging springs.

 

[Uninsurable]

Noted!!!
I have some questions about your big block swap!

 

[uvaldi]

Monroe Severe Service shocks are great and cheap and made in USA. Last a long time also. Highly recommended and are a great combo with soft base Caprice suspension.

 

[Uninsurable]

Thats what I ended up ordering!

i had Bilstien HD’s on my 2003 Marauder, they lasted a year and a half, and I was unimpressed with customer service.

i understand my experience was apparently a-typical, but I also like buying American whenever possible.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Monroe Severe Service shocks are great and cheap and made in USA. Last a long time also.
Highly recommended and are a great combo with soft base Caprice suspension.

I did not love Monroe Severe Service Shocks, but for the price, they worked very well on my wagon.
Bilsteins are likely better at smoothing out rougher roads, but they handle well.

 

[storm9c1]

I did not love Monroe Severe Service Shocks, but for the price, they worked very well on my wagon.
Bilsteins are likely better at smoothing out rougher roads, but they handle well.

I agree. The Monroe SS shocks work great on my 9C1 cars -- so definitely use them on sedans. But I grew accustomed to the softer ride of my wagon. So putting them on there was not my best move. The wagons feel very different with those shocks IMO, a bit too harsh for me. So I removed them, kept them on the shelf for one of my 9C1 sedans, and replaced them with Bilsteins. Best decision. The Bilsteins are perfect on the wagons.

At the same time I also used 70s wagon variable rate springs in the back. They were more stout than the stock 94-96 springs. I basically just looked at specs until I found a set with a slightly better ride height and best load handling since I knew I'd be hauling some loads and towing a trailer with my wagon. Worked great. Right height was 1" higher than stock at first. Gave the car a rake, which I liked. But after some road trips hauling and towing, they settled down nicely.

Like others mentioned, I would not recommend load-assist shocks on these cars either way. Front or rear. People already addressed the fronts. Rears are questionable. Might it work? Sure. I mean many wagons do come with rear air shocks from the factory (I'm not sure if that option also upgrades anything with the mounts). Which is another option. Rear springs are easy to change and lots of options available. Do that first. Consider air shocks if you haul heavy loads and want to keep your headlights straight (either using the stock compressor if your car has one or add/subtract air manually).

 

[hoonedwagon95]

I installed a set of Monroe SS shocks on the front of my wagon and love them. Tightened up the front alot but I prefer a firm ride over soft. In the rear I installed the Gabriel load assist and they were great. Only raised the rear about 3/4 inch. Doesn't feel like I'm floating and bouncing down the road as I was before them but it's not harsh at all. Handles the weight of 6 people way better with them also.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I installed a set of Monroe SS shocks on the front of my wagon and love them.
Tightened up the front alot but I prefer a firm ride over soft.
In the rear I installed the Gabriel load assist and they were great.
Only raised the rear about 3/4 inch.
Doesn't feel like I'm floating and bouncing down the road as I was before them but it's not harsh at all.
Handles the weight of 6 people way better with them also.

As a general rule of thumb-ish: most sedans would not be as weighed down as wagons.
In my case, on several occasions my wagon carried 10 riders in total.
That's me +3 in front (bench seat), +4 in the middle, & +3 in the rumble seat.
11 in all.

Although I definitely should have been using stiffer rear springs / and or shock dampers with helper springs whenever I loaded my wagon with 10 riders, the Monroe Severe Service shocks worked well enough to earn my recommendation (if not my undying fealty), especially when the correct springs are chosen.

My experience is with Monroe Severe Service 550012 (front) & 550013 (rear).
Maybe I would have had an even better experience had I used 550052, MSS' rear shock damper with helper spring.
Don't know if Monroe Severe Service 550052 is still in production / available.

 

[Sinister]

Careful buying the SS shocks these days because they have changed. The set I bought in 18 were not the same shocks I bought in 12. Same part numbers, same markings but the rear shocks are black and I don’t care what it said on them they are NOT severe service shocks. Yellow shocks in front are stiff, those black things on the rear are bouncy like a standard Monroe shock.

If you buy them and they aren’t yellow, send em back.

 

[storm9c1]

Careful buying the SS shocks these days because they have changed. The set I bought in 18 were not the same shocks I bought in 12. Same part numbers, same markings but the rear shocks are black and I don’t care what it said on them they are NOT severe service shocks. Yellow shocks in front are stiff, those black things on the rear are bouncy like a standard Monroe shock.

If you buy them and they aren’t yellow, send em back.

Thanks for the warning! Goes along with the big online parts fiasco of 2022. I can also attest that all of the Monroe SS shocks I've ever ordered (in the past) are yellow. Good call. Black ones were usually the Sensa-Trac, which are far inferior.

 

[stonebreaker]

Although I definitely should have been using stiffer rear springs / and or shock dampers with helper springs whenever I loaded my wagon with 10 riders, the Monroe Severe Service shocks worked well enough to earn my recommendation (if not my undying fealty), especially when the correct springs are chosen.

My experience is with Monroe Severe Service 550012 (front) & 550013 (rear).
Maybe I would have had an even better experience had I used 550052, MSS' rear shock damper with helper spring.
Don't know if Monroe Severe Service 550052 is still in production / available.

Might just want to add air springs in the rear when you're hauling passengers. These slip inside the coil springs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/air-60755/make/chevrolet/model/impala/year/1996

I used to use them when I drag raced. Aired up the right spring to help plant the rear tires. Had them for years, never leaked. I had them plumbed to air up individually because drag racing, but you can plumb them together too, to keep ride height even. Cool part was that I put the air valves on either side of the fuel cap, so you couldn't even see them til you flipped down the licence plate.

 

[storm9c1]

What's the difference between "air springs" and "air bags"? I hear the terms used interchangeably. Although I often hear the term "bags" used when a car is lowered as a way to facilitate the lowering and raising on demand.

And another alternative is air shocks. Those were factory on many wagons and work very well, even if the original compressor is dead, just put 150 PSI in them and call it good. I've been very happy with air shocks. No bounce at all when properly aired up. But for really heavy loads, putting the load on the spring mounts seems smarter, which is what air springs would do.

 

[Uninsurable]

Careful buying the SS shocks these days because they have changed. The set I bought in 18 were not the same shocks I bought in 12. Same part numbers, same markings but the rear shocks are black and I don’t care what it said on them they are NOT severe service shocks. Yellow shocks in front are stiff, those black things on the rear are bouncy like a standard Monroe shock.

If you buy them and they aren’t yellow, send em back.

So a quick update. I have managed to install all brand new trw and delco steering components. So new idler arm, center link, inner and outer tie rods and new adjuster sleeves. This helped tighten the steering up immediately.

my buddy’s air compressor gave up the ghost, so that prevented us from removing the front shocks, and as a result the lower control arms. Whomp whomp.

i also discovered that the factory sway bar end links had snapped on one side, and then I broke the other one (which was easy to do because it was pretty corroded).

I upgraded all 4 wheels to pro comp flat black 7069 aluminum 17x9 wheels. I have brand new Nitto nt555r 255/50/17’s up front, and I installed nt555r 275/50R17’s in the rear. Due to the fact that my body is apparently cockeyed on the frame, the pass side rear tire is uncomfortably close to the fender lip, and it does rub (and scrape the sidewall a bit) during athletic maneuvers or off camber turns.

i ordered the 9C1 center caps with the acorn lugnuts for the pro comps, but I didnt realize that the centercaps had tabs on them that fit into holes in the 9c1 wheels. I am going to have to either have my wheels drilled for the tabs, or else I will grind the tabs off so that the caps just mount flush on the face of the pro comps.

the pro comps are really made for Jeep wranglers, so the center caps for the front wheels didnt fit because of the length of the spindle, so for now they are just sticking through the front.

i ordered a brand new Hellwig 1 3/8” tubular bar up front and installed it. Holy mother what a difference in handling. Between the wheel and tire upgrade, refreshing the steering, and the hellwig bar, Its now as good as my stock marauder was.

I still have to do my tubular lower control arms, new delco stock uppers, moog 5660 springs, and As I mentioned, I ended up ordering the Monroe Severe service shocks front and rear after reading quite alot of positive reviews on them.

I do have some concerns after reading a couple of the posts above. I went ahead and opened the boxes to inspect the shocks. They have the right part number, they have severe service stamped on the body of the shock, but they are definitely black. Do they still make the yellow ones, and the thought is that I have some sort of manufacturing mistake lower model shock? Or was there a design change where they changed the spec of the shock as well as the color and now they just aren’t as good?

I just bought a set of Impala SS rear springs on the advice of Fred and Navy Lifer.

since I am already having a rubbing issue because of the rear dog legging, I am going to wait to install them until I do my new ES Black Body Bushings. I got the regular Caprice kit with the missing lower cushions, but I have a plan when I install them to solve the lower cushion problem that will allow me to use the lower duroneter base caprice ES body bushings, but solve the missing lower cushion (basically loose bolt issue), I will post pics when I i stall them. I saw where people were just able to manhandle the body onto the correct position on the frame with a crowbar when they loosened the body bushings, so hopefully that will solve that issue.

pics of the current status/mods below, more updates to follow.