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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've kept dex cool in my car since I've owned it. But I've read threw out the forum that it's not such a good idea in case water pump goes it's swells up gaskets yada..yada.. The Haynes manual even said to keep it in the engine if you replace...use the same stuff (dex) well....I'm looking for the proper fluids to flush & refill my engine. Cause right now i have auto zone green in right now just to keep it UN frozen. I want what's best 4 my baby just like everyone else here, i want what fights off corrosion. dex cool just sits right with me. What about the rest of u beast drivers???
 

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I've kept dex cool in my car since I've owned it. But I've read threw out the forum that it's not such a good idea in case water pump goes it's swells up gaskets yada..yada.. The Haynes manual even said to keep it in the engine if you replace...use the same stuff (dex) well....I'm looking for the proper fluids to flush & refill my engine. Cause right now i have auto zone green in right now just to keep it UN frozen. I want what's best 4 my baby just like everyone else here, i want what fights off corrosion. dex cool just sits right with me. What about the rest of u beast drivers???
so you put non dexcool it this coolant system. now your asking what type coolant to use when the vehicle had dexcool in it . this how you damage your vehicle.

If for some reason I wanted to change from dexcool to another non GM approved coolant I would remove the KS sensors flush out the coolant system then fill the coolant system with an acid flush cleaning material . then I would repeat the KS coolant system drain. replace all the hoses blow out the heater core and install the non dexcool coolant.

remove the plastic coolant reservoir and wash out as best you can.

dexcool is not the problem the problem is people using non GM approved coolants with dexcool.

also only use distilled water tap water has corrosives.
 

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I scarcely know where to begin. You put green anti-freeze in, when you knew it took orange? I think you need to stop working on your own car while you still have one. There is absolutely nothing wrong w/Dex-Cool. I've been using it in both my vehicles over 15 years. Mixing the two is a HUGE no-no,even some people who don't work on cars at all realize that.
 
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OP

you don't want to mix Dex & Green aka conventional coolant/anti-freeze.

The initial problem people had with Dexcool was it reacted with stop leak pelets GM put in the vehicles new. that caused a brown sludge to form which in turn clogged the system.

If switching to green, and I did back in 98 (actually dealer did it as Dexcool was becoming to big of a service issue) you need to completely flush the Dexcool out which is best done by removing knock sensors to drain block and flushing the system with fresh water, a few times.

Nothing wrong with Dexcool itself and it does have a longer service life than Green.

Given your "blend", I would flush and pick one or the other and replace with a 50/50 mix of distilled water
 

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Nah, nothing bad about dexcool. Usually more expensive and since I flush the system completely before the recommended service interval (for the coolant) and green is easier gotten...and cheaper...and just as good for the interval I intend to use it, I use green.

The stop leak pellets mentioned are how it got a bad rap. the coolant itself is fine.

You mixed in the green because you came dangerously close to blowing apart your engine w/ ice and it's all you had. Perfectly understandable. Just make sure whatever you put in it should be completely filled w/ same. Either stick w/ green or if you want to run dexcool, do another complete flush and use dexcool mix only.

The benefits of dexcool vs. green is such a minor, splitting hairs issue anyway if either is flushed within a 2 year expanse. A more compelling argument could probably be made as to whether if you split a crumb in 2, whether you now have 2 half crumbs or 2 crumbs.

Corrosion fighting capabilities are top notch for both products. Can't go wrong there. Thing to understand is that iron blocks produce fine rust sediment. They just do, no matter how diligent you are. How to remove it? Flush completely and fill w/ fresh on an annual to every 2 year interval. That'll keep the cooling system happier than anything else you can do for it.

While at autozone, go across the street to walgreen's, CVS or what have you and get a couple of gallons of distilled water to mix w/ the coolant OR just get the 50/50 pre-mixed stuff. Don't use tap water.
 

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My 95 if running off water lol no problems only because ive been lazy to put antifreez back in it but i just use whatever green antifreez autozone sells
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I scarcely know where to begin. You put green anti-freeze in, when you knew it took orange? I think you need to stop working on your own car while you still have one. There is absolutely nothing wrong w/Dex-Cool. I've been using it in both my vehicles over 15 years. Mixing the two is a HUGE no-no,even some people who don't work on cars at all realize that.
I appreciate that u reply to my questions but I'm beginning to not know how to take u u sound a Lil passive aggressive like you're annoyed or something i know that you don't mix the two i actually been running water in it to help flush it. On top of reading on this same forum about Dex is no good just like I'm reading how it is now.
 

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If I seem a little irritated about you waking up the whole Dex-Cool debate,then I apologize. This subject has been beaten to death so many times,what's one more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
If I seem a little irritated about you waking up the whole Dex-Cool debate,then I apologize. This subject has been beaten to death so many times,what's one more?
Understood, yea ****ing sucks that i came across this issue now i have **** in my car that i don't need wasted money, however it's keeping ice out of my car,....i have come to learn the value & fundamentals that i under estimated about the cooling system. So i understand that the heater core needs drained in order to flush my system? Is there a way to do this without pulling it cause that's a pain?
 

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Yea,don't do that. Since the original problem has been compounded a bit,what would I do now? I would get 2 gallons of PURE anti-freeze that (pay close attention) clearly states that it is compatible w/BOTH kinds of anti-freeze. You may have to check a couple places. Drain radiator/reservoir,then refill with the two gallons of PURE dual-compatible anti-freeze. Hope for the best,I'm guessing there was extremely little "orange" left inside the cooling system when this saga began. Start/drive the car around so it becomes mixed throughout the system. I'm in Dayton,Ohio it's 33 degrees here now. It's going to snow,and begin to get much colder starting tomorrow. You probably got real lucky,and hope you realize that. One doesn't get that lucky twice,so get it done.
 

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Ok my chance to hijack a thread. :)

Recommend you disconnect the heater core hoses and back flush the heater core.

I'm planning to do this with my impala that has been sitting without an engine for about 9 months.

I've been reading that dexcool will harden if allowed to dry out, possibly permanently blocking the heater core.

If I'm not happy after flushing it as above, I guess I'll replace it before installing my engine.

If course this would apply to my radiator as well, but I purchased a new BeCool radiator that's still in the box so I'm not worried about that.

I also understand that BeCool only wants their own coolant used in their radiators. I'm going to talk to my engine builder (Karl!) before deciding if I'll use becools coolant.

Here's a class action lawsuit regarding Dexcool. Now I'll say it's specific to 4 and 6 cylinder engines. It does not apply to 8 cylinder engines. But still , since I'm starting with an all new engine, radiator, coolant hoses, and (possibly) heater core, is Dexcool really worth messing with vs conventional coolant?

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If it was a sunny day in Fla. I might go that far. It's the middle of winter here in Ohio,and suspect the car is outdoors.
 

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If it was a sunny day in Fla. I might go that far. It's the middle of winter here in Ohio,and suspect the car is outdoors.
I actually thought about the weather after I posted this. Very good point. I know that kind of job would NOT be fun in freezing temperatures.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yea it's sucks ohio suckscwm9...and my car sits out side & unfortunately i cant pay someone to work on my car & don't care to. However the weather is not my obstacle here its knowledge of proper maintenance i gotta work in this **** weather anyways... So can i just unhook the hoses and run a water hose threw the two tubes that come threw the fire wall wouldn't a hose just rinse threw it? Thanks fellas
 

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Yea it's sucks ohio suckscwm9...and my car sits out side & unfortunately i cant pay someone to work on my car & don't care to. However the weather is not my obstacle here its knowledge of proper maintenance i gotta work in this **** weather anyways... So can i just unhook the hoses and run a water hose threw the two tubes that come threw the fire wall wouldn't a hose just rinse threw it? Thanks fellas
I'm thinking of this as well, I'd say to be careful with the pressure. Let someone else here back this up before you do it. :)

I think an even better option would be a bucket of warm water with a pump and both hoses going into it if that's an option for you. Then just keep changing the warm water till it's clean. I know you probably don't have a pump sitting around, so just an idea.




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Yea it's sucks ohio suckscwm9...and my car sits out side & unfortunately i cant pay someone to work on my car & don't care to. However the weather is not my obstacle here its knowledge of proper maintenance i gotta work in this **** weather anyways... So can i just unhook the hoses and run a water hose threw the two tubes that come threw the fire wall wouldn't a hose just rinse threw it? Thanks fellas
you do not mess with the firewall heater hoses. disconnect at the engine. use the hoses to drain and force flush the heater core and capture the coolant. reverse flush to ensure its clear.
 

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you do not mess with the firewall heater hoses. disconnect at the engine. use the hoses to drain and force flush the heater core and capture the coolant. reverse flush to ensure its clear.
Yes, thats how I did mine. Much easier to disconnect there than it is to fight witrh the hoses at the firewall.

Use low pressure doing this as most garden hoses can push 50 psi or more. May be too much pressure for a weak core. I also used a compressure set at about 20 psi to push out as much of the plain water from flushing I could.

While the system is down, consider replacing the Plastic Pieces in the heater lines. These get very brittle with age and can break shortly after moving the hoses around and leave you stranded somewhere. You will be looking for a new Plastic tee by the resevoir as well as a Plastic Flow restrictor. Use a search and you will find info on these.
 
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