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Background info:

Earlier this year, when it was winter, I noticed my heat wasn't very hot. After some research I found that I probably needed to flush my heater core. I did so, and my heat was much better... for a week or so.
I had determined that it must have gotten clogged up again. I wanted to flush it again but not if it was going to just keep getting clogged.
I decided to try to come up with an inline filter for the coolant, before the heater core.
I saw a thread some where else where a guy was using a fuel filter with good results, but I just didn't like the idea of that.

I ended up with 2 brass pex fittings that screwed into each other, some stainless steel mesh, and some nylon washers to keep the mesh tight. I put this little fliter in place of the heater core flow valve (since mine was replaced with a simple hose reducer by previous owner it didn't seem like a bad choice.)

I've cleaned this filter a few times so far and it's holding up well, no leaks, and it's keeping big chunks out of my heater core. The only downside I see so far is the cooling system needs to be bled after cleaning.
 

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Background info:

Earlier this year, when it was winter, I noticed my heat wasn't very hot. After some research I found that I probably needed to flush my heater core. I did so, and my heat was much better... for a week or so.
I had determined that it must have gotten clogged up again. I wanted to flush it again but not if it was going to just keep getting clogged.
I decided to try to come up with an inline filter for the coolant, before the heater core.
I saw a thread some where else where a guy was using a fuel filter with good results, but I just didn't like the idea of that.

I ended up with 2 brass pex fittings that screwed into each other, some stainless steel mesh, and some nylon washers to keep the mesh tight. I put this little fliter in place of the heater core flow valve (since mine was replaced with a simple hose reducer by previous owner it didn't seem like a bad choice.)

I've cleaned this filter a few times so far and it's holding up well, no leaks, and it's keeping big chunks out of my heater core. The only downside I see so far is the cooling system needs to be bled after cleaning.
I have issues with owners having gunk in the cooling system. sure having the heater working good in the winter is a plus with high heat to keep the toes warm but what about the engine when its 90 + and your ac is on ? not good for engine with all that gunk in the coolant system.

I don't have these problems and you should not as well.
having owned the 96 impala for now 21 yrs and doing my own work on it except some paint work , I have a very clean coolant system in fact the coolant system is now cleaner than when the vehicle had 23 miles on it.

I use 2.5 gallons of antifreeze with 1.5 gallons of distilled water .
change coolant [drain block] every 3-4yrs . flush out heater core at this time even if the heat is working ... so that's with NO tap/drinking water !!!!

the heater core is a coolant filter that's my experience. when flushing now I get little debris on flushing it . when new had GM sealer tablets in it no heat new vehicle !!!!
 

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OP - have you pulled both knock sensors and flushed the entire system? And backflushed the heater core? Doing this would make your band aid filter not needed.
 

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OP - have you pulled both knock sensors and flushed the entire system? And backflushed the heater core? Doing this would make your band aid filter not needed.
X2 on the Full Flush....

Also, I would seriously consider replacing/adding back the Flow Restrictor. Many may say they run fine without it, but consider this and other info on the web about this little part....

Flow Restrictor ? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

I trust the engineers put it there for valid reasons. Took one of these apart and there is a spring and other moving parts in there, so it's more of a Variable Flow Restrictor.

If you want to run your Filter, just splice it in between a new Flow Restrictor and your heater core.
 

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I do plan to flush my block as well, but when I started this project it was the middle of winter, I didn't want to pay someone for something I was capable of doing just because it was cold, and I didn't want to just let all that old coolant out on the driveway.
I will be doing it soon though, this just was to help keep my heat in the winter, basically.
 

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I do plan to flush my block as well, but when I started this project it was the middle of winter, I didn't want to pay someone for something I was capable of doing just because it was cold, and I didn't want to just let all that old coolant out on the driveway.
I will be doing it soon though, this just was to help keep my heat in the winter, basically.
I think most recyclers that take oil, also take coolant. im fortunate to have 1 near me that has 2 containers there for oil and coolant. Just pull up, pour into the containers and go.
 

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I think most recyclers that take oil, also take coolant. im fortunate to have 1 near me that has 2 containers there for oil and coolant. Just pull up, pour into the containers and go.
That was one of my big concerns when thinking about flushing the cooling system but I found a location that accepts it. The problem is catching the coolant and water as I'm flushing. It'd be nice if there was a way to attach a hose to drain into a bucket and prevent spills.
 

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That was one of my big concerns when thinking about flushing the cooling system but I found a location that accepts it. The problem is catching the coolant and water as I'm flushing. It'd be nice if there was a way to attach a hose to drain into a bucket and prevent spills.
Best you can do when draining the block is put a container under the car and try to catch as much as you can. When you pull the knock sensors out, it will go all over the place, down your arm, in your face, etc.

When flushing the system, I first pull the lower water pump heater hose off very little to let it gradually drain into a smaller pan. Keep the hose close to the end so it comes out slowly and falls info the smaller pan. I use a mud pan that you would use for drywall work. When that pan fills up, slip the hose back on and drain that into a larger bucket. Repeat the cycle a few times and drain as much out of the system which will get the resevoir and majority of the block drained. If you do this carefully enough, you won't spill much coolant.

Like I said though, when draining the block it will pretty much go all over and catch what you can. In the end, I take the hose and flush the driveway for a good bit of time. This helps to dilute whatever coolant spilled, and also helps to prevent any animals from getting sick if they happen to. Smell that sweet coolant. Don't think there is anyway you can do this without something hitting the ground.

Btw - same with the rad, just use a large pan and try to catch what you can after opening the petcock on the rad.
 

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I have yet to find anyone that will take old coolant in my area. None of the parts stores that take old oil will. The local dump does a once a year "hazardous material disposal day." I'm up to maybe 15 gallons of old coolant in need of discarding.
 

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I have issues with owners having gunk in the cooling system. sure having the heater working good in the winter is a plus with high heat to keep the toes warm but what about the engine when its 90 + and your ac is on ? not good for engine with all that gunk in the coolant system.

I don't have these problems and you should not as well.
having owned the 96 impala for now 21 yrs and doing my own work on it except some paint work , I have a very clean coolant system in fact the coolant system is now cleaner than when the vehicle had 23 miles on it.

I use 2.5 gallons of antifreeze with 1.5 gallons of distilled water .
change coolant [drain block] every 3-4yrs . flush out heater core at this time even if the heat is working ... so that's with NO tap/drinking water !!!!

the heater core is a coolant filter that's my experience. when flushing now I get little debris on flushing it . when new had GM sealer tablets in it no heat new vehicle !!!!
Get off your high horse dude. Not everyone has the luxury of being original owners with properly maintained cars since birth. My Caprice coolant system is a nightmare. I got it that way. I know how to work on cars, and these cars specifically, and not amount of flushing has gotten all the crap out of the system. I have the bracket built and just need to finish up, but I will be installing a bypass coolant filter on my car to help get it back right. Something I learned from the heavy duty industry. Proven technology that works.

And a flush of coolant based on time is wasteful. Check PH levels. Change when the PH dicates. Or if you start to see it get dirty.
 

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Background info:

Earlier this year, when it was winter, I noticed my heat wasn't very hot. After some research I found that I probably needed to flush my heater core. I did so, and my heat was much better... for a week or so.
I had determined that it must have gotten clogged up again. I wanted to flush it again but not if it was going to just keep getting clogged.
I decided to try to come up with an inline filter for the coolant, before the heater core.
I saw a thread some where else where a guy was using a fuel filter with good results, but I just didn't like the idea of that.

I ended up with 2 brass pex fittings that screwed into each other, some stainless steel mesh, and some nylon washers to keep the mesh tight. I put this little fliter in place of the heater core flow valve (since mine was replaced with a simple hose reducer by previous owner it didn't seem like a bad choice.)

I've cleaned this filter a few times so far and it's holding up well, no leaks, and it's keeping big chunks out of my heater core. The only downside I see so far is the cooling system needs to be bled after cleaning.
If you want to stop the constant cleaning/bleeding, you can try this:



That's what I have in my Caprice. Filters a lot better than your screens, and never has to be removed to check. Just replace the filter when it stops getting hot.

It's a NAPA 4019 base, with NAPA 4070 filter. Not expensive at all.

My car had chronic appearance of gold stop-leak flakes that never went away with flushing. This filter permanently banished them.

With regards to engine coolant disposal, check with your local municipality. Mine specifically instructs individuals (not businesses) to pour engine coolant down a sanitary drain (sink, toilet, etc. not a storm drain, or other drain going to the water table). The treatment centers can deal with ethylene glycol far easier than they can the other contaminants they are used to getting.
 

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If you want to stop the constant cleaning/bleeding, you can try this:



That's what I have in my Caprice. Filters a lot better than your screens, and never has to be removed to check. Just replace the filter when it stops getting hot.

It's a NAPA 4019 base, with NAPA 4070 filter. Not expensive at all.

My car had chronic appearance of gold stop-leak flakes that never went away with flushing. This filter permanently banished them.

With regards to engine coolant disposal, check with your local municipality. Mine specifically instructs individuals (not businesses) to pour engine coolant down a sanitary drain (sink, toilet, etc. not a storm drain, or other drain going to the water table). The treatment centers can deal with ethylene glycol far easier than they can the other contaminants they are used to getting.
Nice work. this is what I will do on my White Caprice.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/53-heating-cooling-hvac/331050-coolant-filtration.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OP - have you pulled both knock sensors and flushed the entire system? And backflushed the heater core? Doing this would make your band aid filter not needed.

I had just noticed this post.
I haven't gotten a chance to do a full flush yet, but I have flushed the heater core a couple times with good results.






The engine in this car was swapped before I got it, and probably wasn't the best maintained, so now I'm stuck dealing with the dirty coolant system.


For now this filter will do, but I will look into the other filter mentioned and the flow restrictor.
Does anyone have a part number for an OEM replacement?


Thanks!
 

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like I said 21 yrs no problems . I don't have a horse . you do it my way no problems .


put filters it ,,,,,,,, it is your ride . just remember a clean system will cool as designed , dirty well not so much .
 

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Hmm, I don't know... Water never wears out. Glycol never wears out. If the corrosion inhibitors can be added back in as they deplete and restore proper ph. Then put a simple filter on to clean up stuff from the past, then you could have potentially not had to deal with disposing, hopefully legally, some 30 gallons or so of coolant. Hazardous stuff that shouldn't just be dumped.

Seems like a worthy cause.
 

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Hmm, I don't know... Water never wears out. Glycol never wears out. If the corrosion inhibitors can be added back in as they deplete and restore proper ph. Then put a simple filter on to clean up stuff from the past, then you could have potentially not had to deal with disposing, hopefully legally, some 30 gallons or so of coolant. Hazardous stuff that shouldn't just be dumped.

Seems like a worthy cause.
30 gallons no way ! I simply drain out the 4.25gallons that's it .
then blow out the heater core 1.5QTS, its all removed .

water does get contaminated in the cooling system over time. the use of distilled water reduces the water form etching the metal [acid]. coolant has all types of chemicals to keep the system working properly/reduce but not eliminate the corrosion. so this is why you must change ALL the coolant and use distilled water. this will keep it clean for the 4-5yrs.
using the 65% antifreeze mix with 35% distilled water increases the ability of the coolant to be able to control the corrosion.

again ,, you do it your way I really don't care .
those other members will hopefully do it this way even on other vehicles .

back in 1996 distilled water ?? what's that ?
I worked in a lab where we had to keep the lasers working properly. the water was 100% pure. if it was not ,the lasers would loose power out because of damaging the output lenses.
the radiator must have a clean surface to extract the heat. if the cab heater is not putting out heat then what do you think the radiator is doing extracting the engine heat ?
clean good dirty bad ...

always capture all the drained spilled coolant .. protect the environment.
 

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30 gallons no way ! I simply drain out the 4.25gallons that's it .
then blow out the heater core 1.5QTS, its all removed .
I under estimated then... lol. More like 40. Assuming about 7 changes in the 21 years.
 

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Changing it not the problem. It's how to deal with the stuff taken out. No easy solution unless you just dump it.
 
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