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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, it's officially three years, seven months since Black Sunshine got parked in the barn after SSHS. (Thanks, again, Mark for the ride home!)



Went out to the pole barn last week and put my blizzacks/redlines on him to get him off the ground and rolling.

Flat bed came out and brought him to the house. This is the very first time for the V and SS to meet.



Got out the ol' bucket and hose and washed off the grime. Cleaned up pretty good considerin'.



A light weight metal shelf got blown into the car during the last bad storm. Destroyed a clear corner light and scratched the hood pretty good. This and the old punched lock on the passenger's door will get fixed in the paint shop.

But, first things first.

I have an enormous amount of respect for so many of you on this forum. I mean the "Walkers". Therefore, I am asking for your help and suggestions to incorporate into formulating my plan to make Black Sunshine better than ever.

My goal here is to repair and service the drive train to create a gorilla that has been detuned for reliability/streetability. Not a daily driver but close.

First on my plan list is gathering all the info I can find from 5 years ago when the stroker was constructed. Gotta go dig thru the boxes in storage to find my notes. Gonna try to finish this before vacation next week and will post up the specs.

I'm in the process of making arrangements to move the car up to Atlanta to put it into a reputable shop that specializes in turbo LT1/LSX cars. So, in anticipation of the move I need to create the to do list.

Guess now is as good as any time to start a list concentrating on the mechanical side of things.

To Do List:

Engine -

Double key crank/balancer
Replace valve covers
Install crank case venting w/ catch can
Install remote oil fitler
Install oil cooler w/ fan
Rebuild turbos
Install turbo insulation
Repair stainless headers
JetHot coat the headers
Buy/Install blow off valves
Buy/Install boost controller
Install alky intake kit
Buy/Install alcohol tank in trunk
Relocate battery to trunk
Relocate ANY wiring/tubing near turbos
Remove wiper motor

Transmission -

Service and bench test

Drive Shaft -

Buy/Install lightweight unit
Buy/Install solid/hardened u-joints

Rear End -

Service/Inspect
Buy/Install extended trailing arms
Buy/Install adjustable upper links
Install instant center brackets

Exhaust -

Build new system w/ cutouts

Front End -

Buy/Install new upper and lower arms
Buy/Install new steering components
Buy/Install lowering spindles

Feel free to ask questions, make suggestions, etc.
 

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Dang, all of last year i kept seeing pics of this engine all over google.
Never would of thought it was in a barn for 2years already?
 

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I remember that day at SSHS...I hope you return her to the greatness that I remember. Good luck Gene! If you need something and I can possibly help, I'm here!!!
 

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What happend to the car exactly?

Are you going to run the stock PCM and a 4L60 ?

Good luck with the project!! :)
 

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Bravo, Gene! It is good to see Black SSunshine finally being resurrected. Its about f-ing time! :D

GuillaumeC - If I remember correctly, the motor blew a head gasket on the top end of the Atlanta dragstrip at its last SSHS appearance. It has been monthballed ever since while Gene has been plying with his V-Caddy.
 

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My $.02

-heat sleaveing and routing
a worthy quest for a true street machince:D


-Install crank case venting w/ catch can
Go right to a full vacuum system with a kick out trap door pan

-Buy/Install blow off valves
Turbo Smart Race Port
*in the pic bottem right


-Buy/Install boost controller
-Install alky intake kit
-Buy/Install alcohol tank in trunk
If u r trying to put her on the STREET dont do it
alky is a variable if the variable goes away the motor breaks
800-900RWHP can be had on pump gas with the propper tune
2bar speed desity baby!
want a safteymargin of octane
look into Competition Race fuels adders :)

-Relocate battery to trunk
this is not a street Mod this is a race car mod
boosted EFI cars need rock steady voltage on tap
a ONE volt swing on the fuel injector at WOT is HUGE amount of fuel
*if the DC offset table is not 100% correct or has margin in it
**cant tell u how many poor starting rear mount GM I have seen in my day on the dyno

-Buy/Install extended trailing arms
be very carefull you could end up with less drive shaft engaugment
on a very powerfull car :)

-Exhaust
I have yet to see ANY E-cutouts on any car stand the test of time
they ALWAYS fail!
put the money for the cutout into a solid nice system with large open free flowing mufflers.
If you want cut out put on capped cutouts and unbolt them on play days,
Your going to have more power than traction when capped on the street anyways!

Just build a nice 3" sysem out of sectioned manderel bends and you will be stylin.
this is a $100 sumiit kit and some Headman hookup pipes

layout is key to a nice tucking 3" for a lowered car that can not hit custom fit make a car that can take everything the street can dish out

tuck-a-saurus

final product b4 VHT paint

if you lack skills or local talent I would recomend Dan at Clear Image

-Install remote oil fitler
-Install oil cooler w/ fan
perma cool and TND make remote filter mounts
*I am not an AN fan*
local napa trucking store will have eaton weather head hose
this hose is tough and will last longer than anytheing else on the car


Canton Accusump for rock solid oil pressure under G-force and engine load
Canton Billet Full Flow oil filter base
Canton EPC controller lets the motor pre prime with oil before you start the motor
I eneded up diching the the Napa high grade red hose for the Eaton Weatherhead
DEI heat & Summit brand sleaving FTW!
 

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Gene great to see you back in the game!

Talk to Norm Pelton about a header paint he's using on his headers. I saw them in person the last ECIRS. The paint is been on all summer long. Looks brand new. It's a brush on paint.

Denny's makes some very nice HD drive shafts: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

Other than that I am no help, I like my power all NA :D
 

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Hi Gene,
Very cool thread this is gonna be.


BTW there is a car build SECTION on the forum now, may want to think about putting this there if it's more of a long haul thing....food for thought. ;)


-ALF out...
 

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-Relocate battery to trunk
this is not a street Mod this is a race car mod
boosted EFI cars need rock steady voltage on tap
a ONE volt swing on the fuel injector at WOT is HUGE amount of fuel
*if the DC offset table is not 100% correct or has margin in it
**cant tell u how many poor starting rear mount GM I have seen in my day on the dyno
I totally agree! The proper way to relocate the battery to the trunk involves a LOT of heavy cable, a cut off switch, and if you're smart a big ass fuse. If done for weight savings, then it's a losing proposition!
 

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Repair stainless headers
JetHot coat the headers
Coating headers makes them susceptible to rust. If they're stainless, then why bother doing anything other than polish them and put them on. Stainless is the best way to go!
 

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Gene,
Sorry my new shop isn't anywhere near done.......

Good luck with the build.
Decide what you want and stick to it. Avoid the "while it's apart" syndrome.
 

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Coating headers makes them susceptible to rust. If they're stainless, then why bother doing anything other than polish them and put them on. Stainless is the best way to go!
Or you could move to SoCal or AZ :)
 

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Gene,
Sorry my new shop isn't anywhere near done.......

Good luck with the build.
Decide what you want and stick to it. Avoid the "while it's apart" syndrome.
aww the Wallet Empting Gremlins
know to many as The MIGHTASWELLS
 

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Hey Zebbo! ........glad to hear you're jumping back into it!

I totally agree with Tad on foregoing the "battery in the trunk" mod. been there; done with it, even with the heavy cabling - a constant PITA.
I also agree with the cutout comment... skip it and stick with the dual 3".
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow. Thanks guys. I was kinda wondering if anyone had shown any interest before I realized I had notifications turned off.

As far as what happened to the car, way back when.....Sat. morning, freezin temps, cold line, 4400#. I and a few others were making fun runs early to help heat up the line when I got a wild hair and said fuch it, let's see what he'll do at full boost and turned it up all the way. Got to the 1/8 mile mark and he fell on his face. I got out of it and listened for clickin or clackin but nothing so I banged it again. He spooled right up. I saw my boost gauge go over 20 PSI at the top end of the track;). Made the run in the 11's but when I let up at the end of the track oil blew all over the engine compartment and he cut off. There was so much oil smoke off the headers I thought he was on fire. After a few turns of the crank he started back up running pretty rough and I nursed it back to the pits. It has not been turned over since. Nothing obvious external. Won't know for sure what happened until we pull the heads.

Let's see, ok, we'll cross off the battery relocation. Never have been concerned about weight. I really just wanted to clean up the engine compartment a lil.

The reason behind my thinkin on coating the headers is heat reduction. JetHot has some new coatings which I've got on the Caddy's Kooks headers that looks like polished stainless and greatly reduces heat. Have never had any trouble with JetHot and rusting. The turbos are way in the back close to the fire wall and the heat is incredible. I'm seriously astonished the paint is still on the hood. I have access to all kinds of insulating materials from the boiler shop and will be looking at using Kaowool with sheating where I can.



I'm researching crank case ventilation systems.

I'm going to defer to the shop owner on blow off valve choice. They do it everyday.

I have multiple tunes using an OBD1 puter. The car is and will be a detuned racer that spends alot of time on the street. If I decide to go ahead and mount the alcohol I'll put another tune together just for the eventuality.

The extended trailing arms are intended to give me the greatest clearance for street and race wheels. The measurements for the new drive shaft will be taken after the trailing arms are installed.

The current exhaust system is 3" stainless back to a h-pipe, capped cutouts, Magnaflow mufflers, under the rear piping to 4" x 24" tips exiting behind the wheels. I'm playing around with a few designs to look at getting things tightened up closer to the car and some funky options for final tip designs/locations. Can you say "flat pipe"?



I like the accusump idea.

Thanks again to all of you for your comments and ideas and keep 'em coming. Always great to hear from my longtime friends. Having the car back at the house has really got the juices flowin again.:D
 

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Great to see you getting back in the game Gene!
 

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Yeah, Gene!

-Nab
 

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Glad to finally see that thing comin along! Hail Gene!

I would only suggest powdercoating and heat awareness for a daily driver. Good set of Elec Fans and maybe even an Nitrous sprayer on the intercooler or Methonal setup for the occasional full throttle blasts on the street
 
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