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You may be able to repair the lower portion of the door panel. I use MEK appllied from the backside while the panel is held in place at the crack or split. Then I put a piece of nylon window screen over the glued part and coat it with a mixture of scrap door panel, and MEK paste. The metal or plastic pieces can be reattached with the same paste. The upper panel is ABS, and does not respond well to glues or solvents. You can weld the panel with heat and some scrap plastic. The insert appears to be beyond repair, and the only place that you can get one is from a donor car. The front doors are the same for all Roadmasters. The rears are similar, but the top has a different cutout at the C pillar for the wagons.

You also need a training session in closing doors gently on an old car.
 

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Thanks for the info on repairs. I don’t have much patience when it comes interior repairs. I’ll give it a shot and see. If I fail then I’ll see if one of the local stereo shops can build a custom ones. I’m actually surprised nobody has tried to 3D print a reinforced insert replacement. Gives me an idea💡
I need no lesson on closing old car doors. My 20y/o kid got a good lesson when it happened 😉
I was suggesting that you give the lesson, not receive one. Maybe your son should take a refresher course.
 
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There is a kid here in town parting out a 92 Roadmaster sedan. I can ask about the door panel and bezel.
The 92 does not fit the 94-96.
 

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DOH! Oops, you're right, I just forgot.

The bezels may still fit if you don't mind deleting your tweeters.
The 91-93 bezels do not fit, and the 91-93 bezels do not have speakers. Some of the 94-96 bezels did not have speakers either, but the bezel is the same shape. If one without a speaker can be acquired, and paint to match, the speakers could be transferred to the donor part. The rear bezels can not be modified to fit the front, because they do not have a provision for the electric door lock switch.
 

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It would be a monumental task to modify them. You would have to cut out/off the mount for the switch, cut a hole in the rear panel, and glue the mount area to the rear panel. Once you have that done, you would have to "finish" the opening. I do not know what glue would hold the parts, because they are ABS, and not affected by most solvents. If you rough it up sufficiently, JB Weld might work, but that does not have an affinity for ABS either. I have a pair of tan ones that I can sell you if you want to experiment with them. Maybe an interlocking joint would work with the JB Weld, or a good superglue.
 
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