[SoCalChlln]

Does the power window regulator operate to it’s stopped window up closed position by sensing when the resistance is felt to stop the motor, or is it when it reaches a certain position of where window up closed should be ?
I’ve got a wind whistle at higher speeds that is annoying and I’ve noticed the glass itself is loose in the runner it mounts to.
Should I have the window reset by an auto glass repair shop, or is it due to the molding at the top of the window ?
I’ve tried using clear tubing inserted into the slot of the molding along the top to put pressure against the window while closed, but this has failed to stop the air whistle while driving.
Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

You need to find the precise location of your leak before you can fix it. There is the possibility that the bottom track is not properly adjusted. With the window up, the track should be adjusted level and as far up as possible.

 

[SoCalChlln]

So the power window operates going up to a specific point in its range of motion and stops correct ?
It’s not a matter of it sensing the resistance of reaching the window frame/molding at the top of its motion that stops it…
My window is loose in the frame rail of the regulator track, and appears to need to be re-seated and secured in the track rail.
The leak is in the upper front of the window so if it’s not going all the way up, that would contribute significantly to the air leak.
Are these correct statements ?
Thank you Fred, I always appreciate your help.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

It may be going up crooked, but the window loose in the track can only be fixed with a donor part. That could be the cause by itself. The motor has a circuit ¹breaker that trips when the motor continues to run after the window stops. The motor also has a sliding shaft that activates a switch like the antenna.

 

[95wagon]

The motor also has a sliding shaft that activates a switch like the antenna.

Really ? Please show info on this.

 

[Sinister]

Looks like I need to walk over to the parts car.

 

[95wagon]

How would you open the window if there was a switch in the motor that opened at the closed position?
It is only a two wire system that you reverse polarity to reverse direction.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

You can take it apart and find out.

 

[Z09B4U]

The 94 FSM shows a breaker internal to the window motor. This is a redundant safety feature in case someone bypasses the main circuit breaker. It is not a switch. If the main breaker does not open due to a jam, the one in the motor will. The motor breaker is a thermal type that also reacts to heat. If someone repeatedly operates the window motor the motor breaker will open and there will be a "cool down time" to protect the motor.

In older cigarette lighter sockets you will find a safety thermal breaker that would open if the lighter was pushed in (to heat up) and stuck in the socket. It would stop a dash fire but you had to take out the socket to reset the breaker with a pin. It just screwed onto the back of the socket.

 

[95wagon]

You can take it apart and find out.

 

[SoCalChlln]

It may be going up crooked, but the window loose in the track can only be fixed with a donor part. That could be the cause by itself. The motor has a circuit ¹breaker that trips when the motor continues to run after the window stops. The motor also has a sliding shaft that activates a switch like the antenna.

Thank you Fred for the very precise and in depth answer to my questions !
That was exactly the information I had hoped to get from someone as knowledgeable as you.
I appreciate your response, time and energy !!!

 

[Sinister]

Great, now I've got to pull the worn window motor from the parts car and take it apart.

 

[Z09B4U]

Great, now I've got to pull the worn window motor from the parts car and take it apart.

Edit: This is a breaker that connects the connector to the motor brush. When it opens there is no up/down (motor rotation) until it cools off and automatically resets.

Power window motor

Ok, friday at work I went to lunch and upon my return I rolled the driver side window up and heard a loud "pop" sound and my window no longer would go up or down but I could hear the motor spinning when activating the switch. The first thing I thought was that a window glide had broken. I didn't...

www.impalassforum.com

 

[95wagon]

The Ogo Pogo limit switch inside the motor is probably just out of adjustment.
Hard to see but that doesn't mean it isnt there

 

[storm9c1]

The Ogo Pogo limit switch is right next to the turbo encabulator as follows:
The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semi-boloid slots of the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible tremie pipe to the differential girdle spring on the “up” end of the grammeters.

I'm sure you'll notice the unilateral phase detractors if you take the window motor apart.

In all seriousness, we are talking about 1990s GM tech here. Furthermore, the B-Body was mostly a holdout from the 70s electrical technology. Meaning they made the power windows and locks as simple and cheap as possible. Given a chance, the window could hurt a childs finger (solved by teaching your kids not to stick their fingers into moving objects).

As some others tried to explain, the motor blissfully runs the window up and down without a care in the world... and the motor keeps struggling even at the top and bottom stops. If you hold it there, it will burn until the thermal breaker trips. You can watch your volt gauge dip as you hold it. Hold it long enough, about of minute or two, and you will notice the volt gauge spring back as the thermal breaker trips. I wouldn't advise doing this though. It's a good way to let out the special smoke that holds all electrical things together.

In summary, this isn't a 2020s Subaru that loses it's mind as soon as you disconnect the battery. No limit switches. Nothing smart or fancy about the windows.