The procedure is posted on the forum. You should be able to search for it. You need to control the arms, or it can cut your finger(s) off. The bolt heads on the included bolts may interfere with the mechanism.
Drivers window motor
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Power Window Regulator & Motor Related
There's a bit of a paucity of information on anything other than roller replacement and whole unit (regulator/motor) swaps w/ used ones. This thread is intended to be a spot for motor only replacement using existing regulator(s) and issues related to the removal, installation and problems...
www.impalassforum.com
Don’t know if you’re still looking, but just did passenger side in my 95 Roadmaster.
If you’ve already took the regulator assembly out, you’re not too far from done.I put mine in a vise, pinching the spring. Some old heads at work, and various other sources said this spring likes to unload if nothing is there to hold it (ie the motor, which is funny because my FSM makes no mention of that, but it is definitely under a lot of pressure.)If you haven’t already (and if it still works a little with some encouragement via hammer), plug it in and clock the motor and spring to where it only covers one of the rivets.
In position in the vise, I drilled the rivets until they were mostly gone and were free spinning, and pulled the heads out with pliers from the other side. One will be a little bit of a PITA since the gear will block it, but with some encouragement it will come along. Reassembly is straightforward with lock nuts and bolts to hold the new motor to old regulator (my window motor kit included them), however I still but blue loctite because I would prefer to be sure it stays. Reinstall regulator mount to door with 4 new bolts and locknuts as well (loctite wouldn’t hurt here either.)
Get it put/bolted back in, and before popping the scissor ball studs back in, be sure to get the upgraded rollers (Dorman 74444) and grease liberally with lithium grease. I was dreading this for about a year but honestly wish I had done it sooner as it wasn’t all that bad.
(Ignore the zip ties, in retrospect the loud pop it made when I removed the last rivet made me happy that wasn’t the soul thing I relied on to hold the spring lol.)
If you’ve already took the regulator assembly out, you’re not too far from done.I put mine in a vise, pinching the spring. Some old heads at work, and various other sources said this spring likes to unload if nothing is there to hold it (ie the motor, which is funny because my FSM makes no mention of that, but it is definitely under a lot of pressure.)If you haven’t already (and if it still works a little with some encouragement via hammer), plug it in and clock the motor and spring to where it only covers one of the rivets.
In position in the vise, I drilled the rivets until they were mostly gone and were free spinning, and pulled the heads out with pliers from the other side. One will be a little bit of a PITA since the gear will block it, but with some encouragement it will come along. Reassembly is straightforward with lock nuts and bolts to hold the new motor to old regulator (my window motor kit included them), however I still but blue loctite because I would prefer to be sure it stays. Reinstall regulator mount to door with 4 new bolts and locknuts as well (loctite wouldn’t hurt here either.)
Get it put/bolted back in, and before popping the scissor ball studs back in, be sure to get the upgraded rollers (Dorman 74444) and grease liberally with lithium grease. I was dreading this for about a year but honestly wish I had done it sooner as it wasn’t all that bad.
(Ignore the zip ties, in retrospect the loud pop it made when I removed the last rivet made me happy that wasn’t the soul thing I relied on to hold the spring lol.)
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I was able to replace the driver front door window motor without removing the window regulator assembly.Wasn't bad at all,actually. I did trim a little of the inner door panel to get to rivets and once out it was simple to use the supplied bolts to reinstall new motor.I used a dremel tool to trim door,and also to quickly trim off the 3 rivet heads holding motor in place.
I've read some say trimming off a little of the inner door will weaken the door and flex,etc....That HAS NOT been my experience.After completing the motor swap,I had no more door flex than the pass front door with orig motor.Did this 4 years ago,absolutely no issues. I felt this way was easier and safer.
Hope this helps,
Jim
I've read some say trimming off a little of the inner door will weaken the door and flex,etc....That HAS NOT been my experience.After completing the motor swap,I had no more door flex than the pass front door with orig motor.Did this 4 years ago,absolutely no issues. I felt this way was easier and safer.
Hope this helps,
Jim
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