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Drivers window motor

357 Views 8 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  SEO9C1
I have the old window motor and regulator assembly out and I have a new motor with no real instructions on how to install the new motor. Obviously have to drill out the motor rivets but unsure about what to expect to happen next. I understand I don’t want the regulator spring to come out. Can anyone give me a step by step process before I jump in and have a mess on my hands?
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The procedure is posted on the forum. You should be able to search for it. You need to control the arms, or it can cut your finger(s) off. The bolt heads on the included bolts may interfere with the mechanism.
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I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but you might think of an easier way to handle this, although I am sure the information found will be valuable . I have never replaced a defective window roller, but I have had one done on a Dodge Grand Caravan and a friend of mine did a back one on his 2003 chevy impala (non-B body).
Both of them noted the same thing. Do not try to use the old regulator assembly, I believe with the cables.

Each said buy the combination unit- motor and regulator as a one-piece unit. If you can, you might want to think about returning the motor for credit and going that way. My passenger side back window doesn't operate now, and if I decide to attack it, that is the way I will try to do it.

Cruiser Bill
cruiserbill please post some verified sources for regulator with motor assemblies. They seem to be hard to find.
Do not try to use the old regulator assembly, I believe with the cables.
The b body are a "scissor lift" style. I have no idea what you mean.
Don’t know if you’re still looking, but just did passenger side in my 95 Roadmaster.

If you’ve already took the regulator assembly out, you’re not too far from done.I put mine in a vise, pinching the spring. Some old heads at work, and various other sources said this spring likes to unload if nothing is there to hold it (ie the motor, which is funny because my FSM makes no mention of that, but it is definitely under a lot of pressure.)If you haven’t already (and if it still works a little with some encouragement via hammer), plug it in and clock the motor and spring to where it only covers one of the rivets.

In position in the vise, I drilled the rivets until they were mostly gone and were free spinning, and pulled the heads out with pliers from the other side. One will be a little bit of a PITA since the gear will block it, but with some encouragement it will come along. Reassembly is straightforward with lock nuts and bolts to hold the new motor to old regulator (my window motor kit included them), however I still but blue loctite because I would prefer to be sure it stays. Reinstall regulator mount to door with 4 new bolts and locknuts as well (loctite wouldn’t hurt here either.)

Get it put/bolted back in, and before popping the scissor ball studs back in, be sure to get the upgraded rollers (Dorman 74444) and grease liberally with lithium grease. I was dreading this for about a year but honestly wish I had done it sooner as it wasn’t all that bad.

(Ignore the zip ties, in retrospect the loud pop it made when I removed the last rivet made me happy that wasn’t the soul thing I relied on to hold the spring lol.)


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I was able to replace the driver front door window motor without removing the window regulator assembly.Wasn't bad at all,actually. I did trim a little of the inner door panel to get to rivets and once out it was simple to use the supplied bolts to reinstall new motor.I used a dremel tool to trim door,and also to quickly trim off the 3 rivet heads holding motor in place.
I've read some say trimming off a little of the inner door will weaken the door and flex,etc....That HAS NOT been my experience.After completing the motor swap,I had no more door flex than the pass front door with orig motor.Did this 4 years ago,absolutely no issues. I felt this way was easier and safer.
Hope this helps,


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All I can say for 100% sure. If you take the regulator out of the vehicle, and simply unbolt the motor the spring will unload and flip the arm around and if not for the roller still being attached it will take your finger off. Or cut it to the depth of the arm to the roller. Ask me how I know this! I have the scar to prove it. DOH! It is amazing how stupid we are when we buy our first B-Body and how well versed we are at fixing them 17 years later!
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It's been quiote a long time since I've posted, so I can't know if this info as been updated. However, here's what I posted back then
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