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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm probably looking at a new WP for my SS - my rebuilt motor just started leaking a bit of water around the WP weep hole. Just a drop but will likely get worse. It was new back in 2003 but recently sat for a couple years and the seals probably got brittle.

I've done this on my RMW.

Question is, if you buy a new WP (likely will get Gates -good luck with those), i know you get the one (maybe two??) little WP seal(s) for the drive shaft and two gaskets. You can buy Felpro TCS45956 to get the engine/Opti seal, the WP seal, and the front crankshaft seal. How about the Opti o-rings. Do they come with the Felpro set? I see two o-rings but are they the WP o-rings or the Opti o-rings?

Now the big question: you can't get 'new' opti's anymore that are GM. Is Delphi now the preferred brand? Cardone Select (lifetime warranty)?
 

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Yeah, I know, why replace a working Opti. It's at least 12 years old, and thinking it would be best at this point. But it's big $.
 

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I've heard there are no more 'new' opti's, that all are actually reman'd, from AC Delco. How does everyone feel about the Delphi unit, CZ20003?
 

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I suppose the Delphi is okay. Myself,and many others are still going to prefer the AC Delco. Why even bother with a perfectly functioning opti to begin with? I sure wouldn't...
 

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I hear you on the opti. I do get a very low throttle jerk, almost a miss, that I wonder might be attributable to the opti, rotor, or cap. On the 95, the OBD1 doesn't give a misfire code, but one time, when leaving work, it jerked very bad and threw a code, but it went out immediately. I need to read what it was, in my history. I know you can replace the cap and rotor and that might be preferred.
 

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I've done this on my RMW.

Question is, if you buy a new WP (likely will get Gates -good luck with those), i know you get the one (maybe two??) little WP seal(s) for the drive shaft and two gaskets. You can buy Felpro TCS45956 to get the engine/Opti seal, the WP seal, and the front crankshaft seal. How about the Opti o-rings. Do they come with the Felpro set? I see two o-rings but are they the WP o-rings or the Opti o-rings?
I hear you on the opti. I do get a very low throttle jerk, almost a miss, that I wonder might be attributable to the opti, rotor, or cap. On the 95, the OBD1 doesn't give a misfire code, but one time, when leaving work, it jerked very bad and threw a code, but it went out immediately. I need to read what it was, in my history. I know you can replace the cap and rotor and that might be preferred.
When i did mine....
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=243202
I got the kit
http://s101.photobucket.com/user/jodyford/media/000006-7.jpg.html
but I only did the WP, so if i remember right you need more o-rings... I did not buy any other parts.

AFA the jerking....is it a jerk or more of a slight miss?
My car on roads with a slight incline, and i am idling and creeping up, if i very lightly tap the go-pedal i can
make the engine sort of stutter if you will, but i've been told that is the EGR hunting between open and closed...?
Figured I'd throw that out there in case you may have nothing to fix.......:confused:

My SS runs fine, this is a specific repeatable set of conditions that are present to make my car stumble...

Good Luck with the WP...mine is still running fine.

-ALF out...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
[QUOTE

AFA the jerking....is it a jerk or more of a slight miss?
My car on roads with a slight incline, and i am idling and creeping up, if i very lightly tap the go-pedal i can
make the engine sort of stutter if you will, but i've been told that is the EGR hunting between open and closed...?
Figured I'd throw that out there in case you may have nothing to fix.......:confused:

Fine SS runs fine, this is a specific repeatable set of conditions that are present to make my car stumble...

Good Luck with the WP...mine is still running fine.

-ALF out...[/QUOTE]

It's a little of both - a miss and the car is 'jerky' at lower idle in each gear. If I'm above 2000, smooth. I have no EGR, never have, as the LT4 intake and my cam don't require it (that is completely legal).
 

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I would suggest that you not change the OEM opti. Just change the cap and rotor to an MSD set. It's a lot cheaper and works great. I have 20years and 395,000 on my original opti with MSD cap and rotor and it still works fine. Use the money you save for other maintenance items that actually will need attention. Your hesitation is not a symptom of a bad opti. Look at the EGR, fuel filter, plug wires.
 

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OP

if you see coolant coming from weep hole...need to replace WP.. Under operating conditions the leak is more than with motor shut off. The accessory belt slings the coolant so seeing a drip/puddle under car often does not happen unless the WP is just puking water

given the WP is leaking there is a very likely chance the OPTI got some coolant in it also. Just pull Opti and remove cap/rotor to inspect inside. You can clean it with a Q tip. IMHO if the Opti is a AC Delco and still works I would just replace the cap & rotor if it is original with a MSD cap/rotor kit

I don't run a mechanical pump on the SS but my other cars I do and have had better luck with WP's (new) from NAPA vs other chain store WP's

I have always replaced the timing cover seals, especially WP drive & Opti when doing a Opti/WP swap. The WP drive seal can be difficult to install as the inner lip likes to fold over. The "tool" of some form or the one you can buy is ideal for installing that seal
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OP

if you see coolant coming from weep hole...need to replace WP.. Under operating conditions the leak is more than with motor shut off. The accessory belt slings the coolant so seeing a drip/puddle under car often does not happen unless the WP is just puking water

given the WP is leaking there is a very likely chance the OPTI got some coolant in it also. Just pull Opti and remove cap/rotor to inspect inside. You can clean it with a Q tip. IMHO if the Opti is a AC Delco and still works I would just replace the cap & rotor if it is original with a MSD cap/rotor kit

I don't run a mechanical pump on the SS but my other cars I do and have had better luck with WP's (new) from NAPA vs other chain store WP's

I have always replaced the timing cover seals, especially WP drive & Opti when doing a Opti/WP swap. The WP drive seal can be difficult to install as the inner lip likes to fold over. The "tool" of some form or the one you can buy is ideal for installing that seal
so any way to tell if the optical sensor is still good?
 

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so any way to tell if the optical sensor is still good?
if opti is still working, optical sensor is still good

pics of my opti when I had a WP drive seal leak that showed barely a drop of oil at bottom of motor just to give you a idea of how fluids can get in opti be it coolant or oil from a nearby leak. While oil was "on" the sensor, it still worked. I cleaned it carefully and the Opti is still on the car today. You just need to disassemble the opti enough to clean it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I took apart the opti:
1. first, the distributor cap (4 x E4). Took some effort to pry it off, as the sealant was still fairly intact.
2. then the rotor (2 x T8)
3. then the plastic shield, again took effort due to sealant

Now am down to the little timing disc that is fragile. how is the best way to remove both it and the Mitsubishi sensor? I see the sensor is held down by two E4 screws, but can i leave the disc or try to get it off its mounting plate too?
 

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IIRC the optical disc is held on with 2 screws. Been awhile since I had the opti apart but however it is held on it was obvious.

I didn't remove my optical sensor, just carefully cleaned off the oil/coolant that was on it at the time. Like in my pics the sensor is just held on with the 2 screws

I never used "sealant" on the opti, just dialectic grease on the large O ring on assembly. Some people feel you need to use RTV to seal it up.

Guess that is OK but will make it harder to get apart and swap cap & rotor when you need to service the opti
 
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