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Discussion Starter #1
I recently lowered my SS with 2" Sprint springs and I noticed that the rear pass. side tire (stock wheels and tires) was rubbing on the inner fender well. When I looked closer, the pass. wheel is about a 1/2" closer to the fender well than the drivers side. I have no idea what to check or do about it, any ideas? I dont remember if it was like this before the drop because it wasnt an issue until now.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
So its would maybe be the spring that are not properly fixed or bad body bushings.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Im sorry, i didn't specify enough. My drop height is perfect all around, but my whole rear end is moved over to the passenger side about 1/4 inch causing my pass wheel to rub although I can fit my fingers into the wheel well of my drivers side rear.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
from my understand thats a regular problem, my axel is also about 1/4 closer to the passenger side. but since i have a 9c1 my axel is a bit narrower then yours and i don't have any rubbing problems with my intrax springs. is it hitting the fender or the trim?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
it was hitting the trim, but i cut the lip off of it last night and now it isn't rubbing anymore....but the fit is so tight, the only thing i can get between the wheel and the wheel well is a butter-knife.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
From my experience with "b bodies" the rearend is never centered one way or the other.I dunno why though....
 
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Discussion Starter #8
is this going to cause any long term problems? and is there a simple way to fix this?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
What other parts were replaced besides the springs?
 
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Discussion Starter #11
From what I was told, after you do a drop it is not a good idea to use your stock lower control arms. Maybe if you replace them with Hotchkis your problem will be cured.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by wkeil:
From what I was told, after you do a drop it is not a good idea to use your stock lower control arms. Maybe if you replace them with Hotchkis your problem will be cured.
It does not matter which control arms you're using, if all you've done is lower the car a small amount. When you start using large diameter rims on cars with air suspensions, then you need to start thinking about the extended control arms as a requirement. Otherwise, aftermarket control arms are only necessary when upgrading sway bars or wanting to "center" the rear axle front to back.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by highrev:
From my experience with "b bodies" the rearend is never centered one way or the other.I dunno why though....
had this same conversation with a senior ROD member and it basically comes down to the fact that "GM tolerances SUCK." That's why when ordering aftermarket rims you need to measure the backspacing on BOTH sides... from what i understand, it's not abnormal to have one side with a 5" bs and the other 5 1/2".

and the axcel could be offset to EITHER side... cause of those tolerances ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by BADwayz:
is this going to cause any long term problems? and is there a simple way to fix this?
the axel can be centered correctly... don't know how "simple" it'd be though


or get an aftermarket rim with the correct BS

or go with a lowering sprint that's not as drastic as sprint
 
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Discussion Starter #15
So, if I replace the control arms with aftermarket ones, my centering problem will be fixed.
Although, leaving it the way it is will not raise any problems as time goes on ?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
The aftermarket extended control arms will fix the aesthetic front/back centering "problem" that comes from the factory. It won't, however, fix a centering problem that's from side-to-side.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Make sure you current stock control arms are in good shape. Not damaged or bent?
 
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