[speedman9c1]

Hey guys im new to this forum and wuz wondering if i could get sum sugestions on how to drop my quarter mile time into the 13's

I have an 95 9c1 with 160k with the following mods.
Richmond 3.73, edge 2800 stall converter, transgo shift kit. PCM for less tune, K&N cold air intake, 160 thermostat, msd cap rotor and wires with fresh plugs. Flowmaster mufflers with resenator delete. 9c1 steel wheels with bfg 255/60/15. my best run has been a 14.323 @93.87mph with a 1.908 60 ft. 9.048 1/8.
any suggestions would be greatly apriciated

 

[Lance]

Slicks and weight reduction

Hey guys im new to this forum and wuz wondering if i could get sum sugestions on how to drop my quarter mile time into the 13's

Did you read any of this located at the top of the section:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=228114

Try slicks or drag radials. Need to get your 60' into the 1.6's.

Shed some weight where you can.

Join WAIL and ECIRS to meet people who know how to make the b-body fast:

http://www.ecirs.org/

and

http://www.wail-ss.org/

 

[Barbarossa]

Also check out http://www.top-et.com/impalass/

You can see what mod's people in the 13's are running.

~ Barbarossa (Hunting for 13's)

 

[speedman9c1]

wow that top-et site is a great help! I dont think going with slicks will help much. I hooked pretty good on the 14.323 run (had to ease into throttle though)..... I want to get it down into the 13s by the end of next week. I wuz wondering which mod will help out the most. I wuz thinking of headers or 1.6 roller rockers and valve springs......has any 1 played with fuel pressure on a stock set up? does that help? any comments would be great

 

[RuffrydnSS]

ummm....pretty sure with slicks...u wont have to ease into throttle

 

[JZ9C1LT1]

With 160K miles, new valve springs would definitely help. Slick, DR's, or ET Streets is a must.

Street tires + high stall TC = no traction!

 

[booger]

drain the washer fluid reservoir. save some weight

 

[RuffrydnSS]

drain the washer fluid reservoir. save some weight

you can also take out all your seats, replace with milk crates and or bolt in....http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog...&zmam=86451217&zmas=29&zmac=65&zmap=FC.121.99

 

[Gene Beaird]

You should be very close with traction. Our 96 is modded a lot like yours, with the addition of long tubes, and it's a 13-second car w/o the nitrous. It's a low 11-sec. car with.

 

[Lance]

...I hooked pretty good on the 14.323 run

Uh, no you didn't with a 1.908 60 ft.

You need to hook. You need slicks to hook. Period.

 

[speedman9c1]

ok thanks imma take you guys advice on slicks. what size and brand would work best with my application? would they fit on my stock 9c1 steel wheels? will the stock drivetrain handle it? (8.5 10 bolt rear n 4l60e trans) what is the best way to launch this beast with slicks?

 

[speedman9c1]

also on the top-et site alot of completly stock b-bodys are running better than i am..... is sumthin wrong with my setup or am i having problems elsewhere?

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

I'll let some of the other more experienced guys chime in but I have a similar setup as yours and so far so good with a handful of launches on my slicks. My thread asking about my concerns is here:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=248406

also on the top-et site alot of completly stock b-bodys are running better than i am..... is sumthin wrong with my setup or am i having problems elsewhere?

Look at the temps and baro numbers that their entries include. Good air can play a pretty large part in the times you see, especially if you are looking at the best handful of entries in each class. Race weight can play a lot into it as well!

 

[Lance]

As suggested:

1. Headers.
2. Springs and 1.6 roller rockers.
3. Slicks.
4. Shed weight.

Guys on this forum like Pat Gish have gone into the 12's with the stock engine.

Part numbers and info are available here:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=228114

 

[Buffman]

IMO slicks aren't needed. He'd be better off money wise with BFG Drag Radials. 275/50/15s and you can run them on the street with ease and on the stock rims.

You probably need valve springs and rockers too. As long as you have steady fuel pressure at WOT, no need to fiddle with that. If you're loosing 2+ psi at WOT, new FP time.

I don't think there's a bone stock b-body on that list that runs 13s in the 1/4...

You datalog to verify you're not getting any knock at all? don't see you list the LT4KM in your mods...

One thing is if you know someone local who has a wideband unit, is to check your WOT AFR. From my experience with my PCM for less tune, it was .7 too lean, and the car was a lot more responsive with more top end power after richening it up to 13:1

 

[speedman9c1]

yes i do have some spark retard. I test drove my vehicle several times with a tech-1 scanner while monitoring spark retard and it will get 4 to 5 degrees of retard occasionally....didnt know if it was normal or not. I though a lt4 knock module wouldn't be nessecary unless you had roller rockers or headers.

 

[Buffman]

yes i do have some spark retard. I test drove my vehicle several times with a tech-1 scanner while monitoring spark retard and it will get 4 to 5 degrees of retard occasionally....didnt know if it was normal or not. I though a lt4 knock module wouldn't be nessecary unless you had roller rockers or headers.

yeah not necessary unless rockers/valve springs, but it doesn't hurt Are you see the retard At WOT?

 

[speedman9c1]

yea at wot in the upper rpm range

 

[Buffman]

yea at wot in the upper rpm range

what kinda gas you running? Does it go away if you throw a bottle of good octane booster in ./

 

[speedman9c1]

93 octane. never tried to add octane booster