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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats the easiest way to remove and replace the front sway bar?

Ie, On the ground or in the air, frame bolts first or end links, etc..

I've heard it can be a 2 person job to get the new one back in. One person to hold it while the other bolts it up..
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Remove the end links. Then loosen all 4 bolts on the bushings. Once they are all loose hold the bar in the center and take the bolts out. Reinstal in the reverse order. It's a little awkward because of the size of the bar but it's not too bad as a one person job. No need to get it up in the air, a set of jackstands or ramps will be fine. 20-30 minute job.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Makes no difference as long as both wheels are the same, I.E. both wheels hanging or both wheels on the ground.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice catch Larry. I ran new bolts through the top rather than the nuts. Used anti sieze on the threads. That was about 5 years ago and it still comes off easy.
I forgot that the OEM bolts strip after one or two times.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup, got some nice stainless high grade bolts from totally stainless.. Very nice company to deal with..

Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by RJI:
Makes no difference as long as both wheels are the same, I.E. both wheels hanging or both wheels on the ground.
I disagree...you want to make sure the lever arms of the bar are level when the suspension is statically loaded (ride height affects this), so you should LOOSELY attach the endlinks with the car up on jackstands, then load the suspension properly (use ramps so you have room to get under to reach things, or just put it on the ground if you can reach under it anyways, and then tighten the frame bolts and endlinks to spec. Depending on what you have done to your ride height in your car you should take it into consideration when you buy new endlinks (measure the distance of the bar to the lower control arm with no endlinks while you hold it level and then go measure what they have for energy suspension in stock at autozone and get whatever is right).
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mike, you say you disagree with,RJI, Static load can be sprung or unsprung weight on both wheels. As long as the load is equal the bar is unloaded or in relaxed position. Remove it either jacked up with both wheels off the ground, or on a drive on lift.
RJI, Is Right......
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
while your talking sway bars . anyone know if a f40 equipped olds wagon frontsway bar will fit caprice wagon that does not have a sway bar.if so what all do i take from the donor car.where can i buy new bushings & end link's.

i have a rear sway bar from a caprice wagon to put on just have to clean it up a bit. Scoob let me know how the powdercoater did with yours.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by MikeOD:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RJI:
Makes no difference as long as both wheels are the same, I.E. both wheels hanging or both wheels on the ground.
I disagree...you want to make sure the lever arms of the bar are level when the suspension is statically loaded (ride height affects this), so you should LOOSELY attach the endlinks with the car up on jackstands, then load the suspension properly (use ramps so you have room to get under to reach things, or just put it on the ground if you can reach under it anyways, and then tighten the frame bolts and endlinks to spec. Depending on what you have done to your ride height in your car you should take it into consideration when you buy new endlinks (measure the distance of the bar to the lower control arm with no endlinks while you hold it level and then go measure what they have for energy suspension in stock at autozone and get whatever is right). </font>[/QUOTE]Thats the way I've been taught, but when I reinstalled the bar on my other car it was done in the air and it handles fine. I still do it with the suspension loaded just to be sure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The only bushings that need to be "loaded", full body weight, before tighting are the upper and lower A frame bushings and rear trailing arm bushings. This prevents load stress on rubber or poly. inserts...
 
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