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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. It's not often that I ask a question here. It's more often that I answer/help others. LOL.

Anyways, got a CEL on my '95 Wagon. Scanned it. Code 32. EGR. Got this tee shirt many times before but it's been about 8 years since last EGR failure (within my own fleet).

Diags were simple. I disconnected the vacuum line. Tried to move diaphragm by hand. Seemed quite stiff. Tip #1.

Used a handheld vacuum pump. Pumped at least 10 times, would not hold vacuum. Valve didn't move. Tip #2.

Repeated same diag on a good car with known good EGR valve for comparison. Valve moved immediately when pumped a few times and held vacuum. Tip #3.

"It's dead Jim."

Back in the old days, the F-Body EGR was the way to go. I believe the upgrade was for a manual trans LT1 application?

I am pretty sure that upgrade is the one I put on my other cars, likely aftermarket versions, not Delco, straight off the Advance shelf, when they actually had them in stock! And never had a problem. Just unsure on what improvement it provided either. LOL.

Does anybody know why this is an upgrade? I tried searching the forums. Search results turned up lots of really old posts, but nothing recent weighing in on the current state of affairs or modern part numbers. And not many straight answers on this "upgrade". In all cases, the stock B-Body one is $20-$30 cheaper.

The problem is that Advance has since changed their part numbers 10 times, so my notes are invalid. The PN doesn't even cross reference anymore. So that's a dead end. Oh well. Advance is a lost cause. I couldn't even change my store location without being prompted for a login tonight. Nor could I even enter a 1995 Camaro without getting a website error. So eff them. I honestly hate Advance these days. The last straw for me was when they ditched the excellent Purolator Classic oil filters and replaced them with Fram on the shelf. Nope. Goodbye. Advance is useless for anything except recycling your used oil. Unsure why I even tried their useless website tonight.

Next....Rock Auto...
Entering a 1995 Camaro 5.7L shows the same valves as the Caprice/Impala. EXCEPT for 3 valves, all of which are at least $20+ more. The cheapest of those three is this one which mentions both the manual and auto:

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Is that the one I should order? The problem is that GM/Delco parts are a crapshoot now. Could be made in China just like the other aftermarket junk nowadays. Possibly all made in the same factory now.

Moving along to Autozone...
The same Delco one above is $112 with a 1-year warranty. No thanks.

They have a Duralast for $81. Lifetime warranty. Likely made in China.
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Next, O'reilly... Not showing one for F-body manual transmission. Except the aforementioned Delco one, also $112.

That's all folks for local stores!

I will also entertain an EGR delete (block-off and reprogram option), but that may come later. Need to retool my PCM programming options first. So I'd rather just replace the EGR valve for now and can visit deleting it later once I have a more reliable way of programming.
 

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To the why is it an upgrade , besides the normal " suck on it - it lifts " EGR there are positive and negative back pressure EGRs
Identified be a large P or N and a thicker pintle shaft.
Depending on which , they only operate if the exhaust pressure is in a certain range and will also partialy open ( many of us will argue the N valve rarely is never open 😀)
Some times a vacuum test with the valve in hand is meaningless.

Enter the the guy making exhaust mods.
The changes in back pressure would change the operation of the valve , sometimes rendering it useless.
Guys found the F body EGR calibration more suitable to modified exhaust.

Current part number , sorry no help here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the P and N explanation. Makes sense.

So then with stock exhaust, is it worth the extra $20-$30 going with the F-Body EGR upgrade? Will there be a benefit in this case? If the valve will stay closed more often, then I consider that a benefit.

Wagon has stock exhaust. No plans to mod it except maybe muffler replacement when the stock ones split. In that case, I will install a set of quiet SS replacements. Nothing performance.

If I do mod anything else, gears would be priority... because I dislike the lethargic 2.56 gears. I have a set of 2.93s and 3.08s here (aka free) from parts cars. Or I may go 3.23 or 3.42 depending on availability/cost. Otherwise that's about it. I like it quiet and smoooooth. It's a highway cruiser. I'm happy with the 3.42 gears in my 9C1. But I'd also be happy with 3.08s in the Wagon. Basically anything is better than 2.56. And none of that is relevant to EGR.
 

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If I do mod anything else, gears would be priority ... because I dislike the lethargic 2.56.
Here hear. 2.56 is for pure highway cruising, at least 460 miles per tankful.
More fun requires more axle gear, plain and simple.
I have a set of 2.93 and 3.08 here (aka free) from parts cars. Or I may go 3.23 or 3.42 depending on availability / cost.
For free, I hope you find 3.23, otherwise 3.08.
If you buy, buy 3.42 if you are not competing against a stopwatch.
I bought 3.42 for for a wagon and 3.73 for a sedan. Should've gone 3.42 for the sedan as well.
 

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If yours was stiff to lift and you feel like experimenting, I would be tempted to soak it ( not the diaphram part ) in carb cleaner and give it another try.
I might be wrong but dont think the camaro one would be a benefit here.
That being your car is stock.
Make sure passages are clear.

I am of the turn it off and adjust the tables camp.
I only turned mine on for the bi annual test, although itwould squeek be without.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you buy, buy 3.42 if you are not competing against a stopwatch.
I bought 3.42 for for a wagon and 3.73 for a sedan. Should've gone 3.42 for the sedan as well.
Absolutely agree. I think the 3.42s in my 9C1 are the perfect compromise. I normally wouldn't recommend doing anything more unless racing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If yours was stiff to lift and you feel like experimenting, I would be tempted to soak it ( not the diaphram part ) in carb cleaner and give it another try.
Good suggestion but the diaphragm is bad. Won't hold vacuum. All of my other spares do, both on car and on the shelf.

I could swap diaphragms but they are just as old... so...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good info.

FSM states that our LT1 EGR valve is a negative pressure (N) type. So the above complications of a positive (P) type should not apply.

Step 1 goes on to say it should hold a vacuum for 20 seconds. And mine does not. Which supports my findings -- "it's dead Jim" -- replace. I will look at it more closely once I pull it off the engine just in case.

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Completly agree but the bleedoff is still there and can leak in the neg type.
Replacement is likely the coarse , just trying to enlighten as to the complexities of what looks like a simple valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds good. Now that I know there is a bleed-off, I will certainly educate myself. Knowledge is power and I've certainly never been afraid to take something apart and learn a thing or two. Had you not brought this to my attention, I'd probably just summarily replace it and throw the old one in the scrap pile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update for anyone who wants to get it from Advance. The website is working better for me today. Wasn't working on Saturday. This is the only one they currently list for the F-Body manual trans. You need to select carefully since auto trans is listed first in the description.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The factory one is black, not silver or brass colored like the Chinese junk is.
Unfortunately the AC Delco one is also Made in China nowadays. So does it really matter? Probably made in the same factories.

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That said, I scored this Delco 214-5083 from Amazon for $62 and free shipping. Beats Rock Auto's price for that unit. Picture and description indicates painted black. I'll be pleasantly surprised if it actually comes that way. I'll be blown away if it's NOT made in China. Even though the listing (and the reviews) says it is. Can't win them all. I will update this thread when it comes in.
 

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NOS? A 25+ year old part with a thin rubber diaphram is your first choice?
Prefer brand new GM part regardless...More Information for GM GENUINE 2145083 far less chances of counterfeit parts from rockauto than amazon ,or ebay IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Agreed that NOS is better for some things. That's usually how I roll. But not an EGR valve with a rubber diaphragm. Any parts that would have a questionable shelf life... I buy new/modern. If possible.

Also agreed that Amazon is a bigger risk for fakes. But Rock Auto doesn't have a perfect track record either.

One way to mitigate risk on Amazon is to look at the seller or store. In my case, it seems legit.
GM Store

Granted anyone can make a store but chances are that GM has enough lawyers to shut that down if it wasn't an authorized store.

Once stores are authorized, they also usually say "Sold by Amazon, ships from Amazon". Otherwise you will see "Sold by blah, ships from blah." Unless a product ships from Amazon, I definitely skip it.

YMMV.
 
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