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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a CSR electric water pump today so I figured I'd take some photos and upload them here.
This may have been done already but I couldn't find any posts.
Some notes:
CSR instructions say to remove stock water pump parts by driving all out from the front, but after removing the shaft, bearing and impeller, the seal that remains must be driven out from the back (or pulled from front?).
I'm going to remove the shaft behind the timing cover in a couple days so I'll upload more photos at that time.
The shaft in the timing cover is leaking and this is in a dragster so I definitely want to remove it.
Let me know if it looks like I did anything wrong.
Thanks!

Cover removed:


Shaft and impeller removed:


Seal removed:


Paper used to locate and mark pump for grinding:


Pump housing marked for grinding:


Pump housing modified by grinding and freeze plug installed:


Freeze plug viewed from back of pump:


CSR pump installed:


Front of engine before timing cover removal:
 

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Nice writeup for sure!!

The only thing that I ever had done different was coat the outside edge of the freeze plug with ultra copper RTV to just be sure.

But other than that looks great, I can just imagine your car if it has solid motor plates/mounts or whatever they call them, damn LOL
 

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pics on the wiring please! Need some idea where to hookup...

thanks
 

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I hooked my wiring up to the fusbox near the aux post under the hood. IIRC Painless sells a kit for the pump that comes with a relay.

Silly question but with the heater core delete as this set up. How do you fill the cooling system?
 

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quickquestion bout this wht is the rubber hose on the lower metal pipe hooked up to the top one isnt that one of the heater core hoses but i could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I hooked my wiring up to the fusbox near the aux post under the hood. IIRC Painless sells a kit for the pump that comes with a relay.

Silly question but with the heater core delete as this set up. How do you fill the cooling system?
I have a radiator cap on my dragster.
Here's a photo:


When I had a Turbo Buick engine in my Impala, I installed a radiator out of a 93 Caprice, which is pretty much identical to the Impala SS radiator, except it has a cap.
Here's a photo:
 

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wow very nice man did realize it was in a dragster lol i see u said it has a rad outta a 93 caprice since it has cap can this type be put into the 94 which has the coolant bottle fill only my rad had a 2 in crack in the right plastic but some fiberglass and epoxy resin sealed it real nice also i was thinking about a electric pump for my caprice but do they make em all in one unit so u dont have to do the fab work its my only car so i want to be able to do it in a few hours
 

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So you have to grind the water pump housing so the electic motor can fit? (sorry, never looked into electric WP install before)
Do the electric WP's just have one speed and you hook it up to the ignition so when the car's running the pump is on?
Thanks!
Jonathan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
This photo shows the gear and shaft after removal of the timing cover and shows the two bolts that have to be removed next (one has already been removed).


I didn't remove the timing cover completely because I had a tough time installing the vibration damper and I'm afraid it might not come off or go back on easily.
I unbolted the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft and pulled it back about half an inch, which was far enough to remove the water pump gear and shaft.

I used pliers to hold onto the shaft, leaned it against the intake manifold, and tapped the top of the pliers lightly with a hammer to remove the shaft.


Front of the engine after removal of the shaft.


Shaft with the bearing that was pressed into the front of the block.


Then I pulled the seal from the front of the timing cover with channel locks.


Then I decided to cover the timing cover hole with a new seal, washers on both sides, a nut, bolt, lock washer and Permatex gasket maker between the washers to prevent leaks. I could have done this with the old seal in place but didn't think about it before removing it. It seems that most people epoxy a quarter in place of the hole but I don't have any epoxy handy. If I had removed the timing cover I would have welded a plate in place.


Timing cover and front cover plug (used to delete opti-spark) installed.


Modified water pump installed.


And the parts that were removed as a result of installing the electric water pump.
 

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So you have to grind the water pump housing so the electic motor can fit? (sorry, never looked into electric WP install before)
Do the electric WP's just have one speed and you hook it up to the ignition so when the car's running the pump is on?
Thanks!
Jonathan
Well, until I read this write up I would have said NO!

I have installed three different makes (Mezier, Summit and Jegs) of electric H2O pumps on an LT1, and none required any grinding on the housing as noted above.

I'd like to know (so that I don't buy one as a spare) if the CSR pump requires those notches, or if that was something the OP did for some reason other than fitment.
 

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Then I decided to cover the timing cover hole with a new seal, washers on both sides, a nut, bolt, lock washer and Permatex gasket maker between the washers to prevent leaks. I could have done this with the old seal in place but didn't think about it before removing it. It seems that most people epoxy a quarter in place of the hole but I don't have any epoxy handy. If I had removed the timing cover I would have welded a plate in place.
I use a Welch plug for this, that or a cup plug. I'd be leery about using epoxy and a quarter.
 

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Nope. It looks like a 32 Bantam Roadster. Definitely not a slingshot though.
Kinda what I thought too, wasn't sure if those were front wheels in the pic or not. So an altered rather than a dragster.
 

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Nope. It looks like a 32 Bantam Roadster. Definitely not a slingshot though.
Judging by the cowl, I would say your more on the right track.
 

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Oh and, good write up BTW, I will be doing this to my LT1 soon and this is good reference material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, until I read this write up I would have said NO!

I have installed three different makes (Mezier, Summit and Jegs) of electric H2O pumps on an LT1, and none required any grinding on the housing as noted above.

I'd like to know (so that I don't buy one as a spare) if the CSR pump requires those notches, or if that was something the OP did for some reason other than fitment.
The CSR pump requires this grinding.
 
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