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Does anybody know the goods and the bads about the electric water pump and the stock water pump for the lt1's
 

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pros-
slight hp gain
easy to change out (after initial mods)
supposedly flows more than stock, at least at lower rpms.
less leakage prone
spare can be kept in trunk

cons-
price
wp motor can burn out if adequate wiring and relay not used
wp motor konks out, engine heats up very quickly
 

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I would add that while the electric might flow more at idle (or even with the engine off if itis wired that way) at higher engine RPMs when heat output levels are up it is flowing less than stock.
 

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pros-
slight hp gain
easy to change out (after initial mods)
supposedly flows more than stock, at least at lower rpms
less leakage prone
spare can be kept in trunk

cons-
price
wp motor can burn out if adequate wiring and relay not used
wp motor konks out, engine heats up very quickly
I pretty much agree with mr pogo, but I feel the need to expand on some things.

1) The minuscule horsepower gain - 4 to 10 horsepower, depending on the pump chosen - is NOT a good reason to switch from the cam driven to the electric, at least by itself. As far as racing is concerned, it would be best for bracket racing, or drag races of under 1/2 mile. Beyond say, 30 secs of sustained high-RpM shenanigans (road racing, maybe longer autocrosses), stay with the camdriven waterpump.

2) After removing a camdriven water pump, it takes about one hour to remove the internal camdriven stuff, tap in a freeze plug, install the electric water pump, and reinstall the whole thing.

3) It takes 20 minutes, give or take, to replace an electric water pump on the side of the highway (if it isn't easy to do, you're either not mechanically inclined, or you're legally retarded). The shell of the water pump will only need to be removed if the Opti-Spark or the front cover needs to be removed.

4) The highest flowing electric water pump is the Meziere HD. Again:
No one has definitively determined the engine RpM crossover points when the camdriven water pump begins to outflow each of the electric water pumps.

5) Yes, price is an issue. In my case, it was several hundred dollars cheaper than removing the engine's front cover to replace the engine's camdriving components - which would've been the only way that I could ever use another camdriven water pump again.

6) Gary @ Innovative Wiring makes more than adequate wiring for electric water pumps (fairly priced, but not quite inexpensive). I don't know who else does. His harness operates the pump whenever the KEY is on - even if the engine is off.

7) When the electric water pump fails, it INSTANTANEOUSLY QUITS. I did notice more noise coming from the pump about a month before it quit, but ONLY when I popped open the hood. I don't know how many pumps will give ANY sort of warning.

8) Never had one leak on my Opti, though. Not even a single drop from the weep hole (yes, they have weep holes, but I don't know why).

9) Regarding electric water pump failure …

At an ambient temp of 0°F - the engine was also cold, at 0°F - I ONCE disconnected my Meziere HD just to try/learn something. I then drove off.

With a 180°F thermostat, it took five minutes for the dash temp needle to stand straight up (which ROUGHLY corresponds to 205°F). At that very moment, I was already reconnecting the pump. I then got back in to look at the dash temp needle.
It was in that tiny little black space between 'acceptable' and 'red' (I call this space 'pull over already'), but already moving left.

Meaning you have, at best, five minutes from the moment your electric water pump STOPS, until you must either stop, or risk engine head warpage.

That said, I've had two Meziere HD water pumps fail on me, at the most inopportune moments (though they both exceeded their hour duty ratings), but no engine head damage.

I'm on my third one, and very happy with it.

10) For 'cold blooded' people, or whenever the ambient temp can't get over 32°F/0°C, use a 180°F thermostat (or a 195°F thermostat if it can't get over 0°F/-17°C). I'll probably switch thermostats in Dec.
 

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, I've had two Meziere HD water pumps fail on me, at the most inopportune moments (though they both exceeded their hour duty ratings), but no engine head damage.

I'm on my third one, and very happy with it.

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...mine has been on the car for 11 years which has to be more than the 3k hr the HD spec is. Have had a spare in the trunk for 10 years...have not needed it.

Since going EWP....have never had opti failure due to WP leaking....unlike prior
 

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Who makes a good electric water pump that is priced reasonably and is reliable ? What is the best way and easiest way to hook up the power to it ?
Thanks in advance......
 

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Who makes a good electric water pump that is priced reasonably and is reliable?
Meziere WP118, or WP118HD.
It takes extra work to modify the LT1 water pump housing to install the CSR water pump, which doesn't perform as well as either of the Mezieres.
 
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