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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was driving slowly in a parking lot and my car suddenly died, but started right back up. Later I was stopping at a stop light and it died again but started right back up. After the second time I noticed that the gas gauge was pegged past the full mark. On the way home it went to the 3/4 mark which is about how much is in the tank for a minute then pegged past full again. It died again as I was pulling into my driveway but started right back up again. Took it for another short drive and it seemed like it was struggling for power unless I gave it a lot of gas, then I noticed that none of the blinkers worked, left or right. There are some strange things going on, any help is appreciated.

Also no trouble codes and fuses are good.

I checked the aux battery post and it is the brass one.

I cleaned off the negative lead from the battery to the sheet metal next to the battery.

It runs fine until I use brakes or turn on running lights or head lights then it starts to stall until I turn them off.

The turn signals almost make it quit but not quite, they will blink very very slowly.




Edit. I'll get the battery load tested see if that may be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Battery was tested and it is fine.

Battery reads 12.5 volts with engine off, 14.6 with engine running. Blinkers on it still reads 14.6 but starts pulling engine down, turn on fog lights and she quits
 

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Check your grounds. Good idea to remove, clean, apply some dielectric grease and retighten and inspect the wires. Be sure to clean the metal area that the wires attach to. I had 1 of the metal rings break on my harness and it was causing some strange under hood issues.

Pay close attention to those on the front of the driver side cylinder head as well as the fender. There are a few I believe on the rad support too. Here's the schematic for the HL circuit which may give you some areas to check.

http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/impala_twilight_sentinel.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well the gremlins seem to have gone into hiding.
I checked the ground from the head to firewall and though I didn’t take it off it was tight and looked very clean.
I looked under the dash for any grounds, I think I only found one and it was also snug and clean.
I climbed into the trunk and found more grounds and everything looked good.
The last thing I did was pull off the fuse cover by the driver door and messed with the dimmer knob and wiggled the connections to that.

After all that messing around I thought I’d start it up and see if anything happened and it ran fine! I turned the lights and blinkers on and she purred like nothing was ever wrong. I wiggled everything I did previously to see if I could recreate the problem but nothing happened. I don’t have much confidence in it now, just waiting for it to happen again.
One question I have is with the dimmer knob. With the fuse panel off you get a pretty good look at it. When I turn the knob and that pad slides along the thing that looks like a heating element there are plenty of sparks flying and wherever that pad comes to a stop on the element, the element glows red hot. Is that normal? Could that be causing these problems?

Thanks for the diagram. I will actually clean all the grounds and apply dielectric grease maybe the problem won't come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well having problems again.

If using the fuel gage as reference when the car wants to quit, normal fuel gage = happy car, fuel gage pegged past full = not happy.

With the ignition ON engine OFF the fuel gage is normal. Then turning on any of the following will peg the fuel gage. Brakes, blinkers, orange lights, headlights, hazards.

The radio, windows, seats and fan doesn’t move the fuel gage. Could that rule some stuff out because I even ran the fan on high, ran all 4 windows up, moved the power seats and had the radio on all at the same time and the fuel gage didn’t even flicker with engine off and when the engine was running it didn’t pull down a bit, that should have a lot more draw than a few little bulbs.

Now with the engine running the fuel gage is always pegged and the same 5 things brakes, blinkers, orange lights, headlights, hazards mentioned above will stall or almost stall the engine.
 

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Well having problems again.

If using the fuel gage as reference when the car wants to quit, normal fuel gage = happy car, fuel gage pegged past full = not happy.

With the ignition ON engine OFF the fuel gage is normal. Then turning on any of the following will peg the fuel gage. Brakes, blinkers, orange lights, headlights, hazards.

The radio, windows, seats and fan doesn’t move the fuel gage. Could that rule some stuff out because I even ran the fan on high, ran all 4 windows up, moved the power seats and had the radio on all at the same time and the fuel gage didn’t even flicker with engine off and when the engine was running it didn’t pull down a bit, that should have a lot more draw than a few little bulbs.

Now with the engine running the fuel gage is always pegged and the same 5 things brakes, blinkers, orange lights, headlights, hazards mentioned above will stall or almost stall the engine.
Check the Goldsswagon site for even more schematics. In looking at some of the circuits it appears a lot of what you describe may be grounded at left cylinder head and behind the kick panels on both left and right a pillars. At least you have a definite problem that could help you track down the issue.

I would be leaning toward these as areas to check, remove, clean and re secure the grounds. The kick panel areas sound like places to start as your HL switch, instrument cluster is grounded I believe on the left side while the TS module is grounded on the right. You will see multiple wires grounded in these locations. The pass side is also a common area for water leakage and maybe some rust causing a bad electrical connection there. Again, I would also remove the 4 or 5 ring terminals that are grounded at the driver side head near the coil. Very common areas to cause wierd stuff.
 

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It sounds like the ignition switch on top of the lower column main feed wire is heating up failing.May have a bad over heated connection on it.The symptoms you describe are common to this issue.I've seen this a few times on higher mile B cars.
Hope this helps. Jim
 

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I agree with the tank ground fault diagnosis. The tail lights use the same ground, and if it is faulty, the pump will have battery plus voltage at both wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been going through the grounds as time permits and cleaning and putting dielectric grease on them. Thanks 4DoorSS for the link to the Goldsswagon site. I have 5 done so far.

The only training I've ever had in auto repair is when something has gone wrong over the last 15 years and I've researched till I could fix it myself. This is my first go-around with electrical so I'm definitely a noob.

I agree with the tank ground fault diagnosis. The tail lights use the same ground, and if it is faulty, the pump will have battery plus voltage at both wires.
Saw the post from Fred and I thought wow, I've been reading his post for years, before I even registered on this site!

The goldsswagon site says the ground for the fuel pump, tail lights, ect is located on the "left rear wheelhouse, in luggage compartment". Is this the ground shown in the picture?



Is this the location of the tank ground fault you were referring to? In the trunk on the left side, not actually on the wheel well.

To get to the grounds on the A pillar, are the kick panels the plastic panels directly to the left of your foot?

Post #8 is chineese to me, I think I have more research to do....

 

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The kick panels are the carpeted vertical ones in front of the doors, and under the dash. You have to remove the sills to get them out.
 
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