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1996 Chevrolet Impala SS DCM
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Owned my 1996 Impala SS DCM since 1996. It's my daily driver and has 185k miles on it. Thanks to everyone on this forum, going back many years, as well as other sources, I managed to resolve the following items. To pay back I share the experience with you.
  • Odometer resurrected. It took 2 tries but succeeded. Photos below. Many do better justice but quite simply, a 33 ohm 10-Watt wirewound did the trick, I purchased Uxcell from Amazon Part # a18032800ux0078, remotely wired with stranded cable and mounted it to a heat sink, plus shrink wrap.
  • Driver side mirror. Ordered new one from Amazon, Dorman 955-172, it's heated but nothing I know of on the Impala uses that, however the previous one was heated (I replaced it in 2010). Brought new black Dorman to local paint shop, 2 days later I had a perfectly matched mirror. It fit perfectly and works perfectly. Then I took the old one apart, playing with it from time to time, consulting people. Finally I took it completely apart, replaced all grease with new white lithium and voila, the old one works fine. Now I have a spare.
  • Front air dam. Bought an old one from Ebay, swapped, now I'll repair the original if I can.
  • Front arm rests. I had previously swapped the passenger with a blue Caprice arm rest (previously purchased from Ebay for $80) and was intending to paint it gray to match. But instead I carefully glued, epoxied, and using a Plastex kit (Amazon) I was able to reproduce some parts and both arm rests are pretty solid.
  • Door windows. All motors worked but windows were off track and plastic guides were destroyed. Using the technique of bending the channel and "kicking" out the old slides I was able to clear out the old and install new guides. Purchased from Amazon Part # WR019 by "Power Windows Solutions." These are the long slides, not the Dorman rollers. Once done for each window, I greased them and related hardware. On one of the windows a shop had previously followed the remove-rivet approach and it looks like they did it blind-folded, plus threw away the plastic membrane. Along the way I busted a rear window control switch, bought a replacement from Amazon for $13 by Switch Doctor Part # SD-00000695 - it looks perfect but I was able to fix the old one. Now I have a spare. Just in case, GOOACC Trim Clips for door panels Part # 10153057 (replaced GM 10153057).
  • Interior Cabin lamps. Replaced with blue LEDs, they look sweet. CCIYU Part # 818918-5210-1612406061, Yorkim AYJ1002618*10 - these are polarized hence I didn't touch the Instrument Cluster lamps, except ...
  • Instrument Cluster lamps. Check Engine Light burned out, and there is a Fault Code for that. So I swapped it with the Windshield Wiper low level lamp until I could find a new lamp. CCIYU Part # 992011-5210-1502062 is what worked. No, it's not an LED, it's a plain vanilla T5 lamp. The alert lamps are different from the larger lamps in the Instrument Cluster. All is good now. But ... as you may surmise, removing the Instrument Cluster so many times led to ...
  • Dashboard restoration. In the end, it was disintegrating with each drive after the above work. I took it off, reviewing all YT videos, advisories I could find. Photos below. Using Plastex, piecing together old pieces, and epoxy I was able to restore all broken tabs. I considered the plastic weld approach, as I have a soldering iron, but wasn't confident I could do the work without making it worse. After 3 days of work, I was ready to put it on but while re-installing it was still disintegrating if I wasn't careful. More epoxy. Finally I pushed its tabs in and it's tight and bolted in, looks great, and no squeaking.
  • Ashtray. Lamp had heated its housing but after swapping the bulb it works fine but, there's no voltage coming to it. So I gave up to fight another day.
  • Emissions. It would take a novel to go through this but I'll keep it simple. I paid mechanics in 4 shops hundreds of dollars to track it down, always getting the dreaded P1441 fault code. I gave up and found they had the solenoid hooked up backwards. I also attached hose clamps. Through their work, they had previously replaced the charcoal canister. With a vacuum tester, I tested both the solenoid and the vacuum/flow switch and just the solenoid switch needed replacing. Ebay had AC Delco Part # 214578 which worked fine. Just to make things right, I also replaced the gas cap as I was still on the original (AC Delco Part # GT195), PCV Grommet as mine was leaking (Dorman Part # 42320), and Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir Cap as the original had disintegrated (Dorman Part # 54100). The fault was cleared 2 months ago and hasn't returned.
  • Chime Module. Damaged original one by accidentally jump-starting with reverse polarity - interior cabin lamps stayed lit, so I pulled out the old one. Replaced from one unit on Ebay.
  • Carpet pads. Lloyds. They look good but the driver's side snap isn't perfectly aligned, but you don't notice it.
  • Driver seat. Another item that disintegrated and the leather was peeling off. Took to a local shop that replaced and it's a good match.
Other parts:


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