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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have dimentions for the f-body end links ?
I wanted to compare the endlink i have to the f-body ones so that maybe i can trim them.
What I am intersted in is the length of the tube that goes around the long bolt.
Thaks a lot
 
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Discussion Starter #2
I just realized that the end link posted on the IGBA web page is close 1:1 ratio, so it looks like its about 2in long. Does this sound right ?

IGBA web page
 
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No. They're right at 7 1/8" long. I have a pair sitting in my basement right now waiting for me to swap them in.
 
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Sorry, that's the entire end-link. The tube is 2 1/2" long, so you were pretty close. It has two flats built in, one at either end (almost as though washers had been welded onto each end) so it's shaped kind of like a skinny spool of thread. Assuming the stockers are built the same way, you'd be cutting off one of the flats if you cut it.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I bought my end-links from pep-boys because i needed them that day. They are just simple bolt+tubing+washers+bushings, so ther is no problem there with cutting the tubing.
I wonder if the f-body end links are better because they have those washers "welded" on.
I know they use better bushings.
Does any one know how end links work ??
How the length effects performance and what about those flats being welded on ?
Thanks
 

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Good to see you using search, but toggle 'Relevance' to 'date' for more recency in the results. It will certainly be safest just to match sleeve length to what's already on the car. There's nothing spectacular about F-body links just because they have welded washers, and I've never heard of any associated failure there - well as long as they're replaced every 100k miles anyway. As far as "better bushings", there's oem softer rubber and stiffer performance urethane of varying durometers made for all applications. Why not just research for your selected ride preference and check quality brands for your specific car?
 

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The "ideal" length will have that section of bar level with ground at ride height.
I prefer adjustable Heim joint end links. Mine are from Guldstrand Engineering.
 

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Nope. Nope. Get legit Heim type if you want more than oem design, - and be sure to get them with zirks.
 

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They appear to be closed,sad... You will need to assemble your own pairs,and fabricate mounting hardware.
 

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Somebody had posted a source less than a year ago, included all type of sizes and configurations. I'll 'Conversation' whom I think it might be. Otherwise there's always the google fingers.
 

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Summit/Jeg's/Speedway,etc,etc... They are not hard to source. Do a little actual research....
 

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Sorry that my research isn't up to your standards....u mention endlinks that are no longer available. I post some that I found that look better than a bolt and bushings and that was unacceptable.
Really don't see how a heim is going to mount to the sway bar. To the a-arm sure.
The spohn endlinks still look like a winner to me.
 

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This will get you a little familiar with the mounting hardware 1slow- refers to:
You'll want collared washers at that mounting block at the bottom. Even with them I still pulled a bolt right through the A-arm.

Unless you've got some special racing purposes in mind there are quite worthy straight urethane setups for a street car. At 2% or less of the aggravation.
 

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I was a member back in 02...had a 96 DCM 53k miles that got stolen in 04. Couldn't remember my password or email lol.
Finally got another 96 DCM in 17...47k miles.
Finally getting around to doing a few upgrades...mostly suspension.

F-body from sway bar.
Bmr fixed upper and lower extended rear control arms.
Bmr rear bar.
Crown Vic p71 aluminum driveshaft.

So I'm not new here...been working on cars/trucks and every in between for over 30 yrs.
 
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