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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I my car has been running rough lately It has stalled a few times at redlights/stop signs and feels sluggish and will stutter while going 30-50 mph sometimes.
for a few weeks I have had a evap purge valve solenoid code that I have been neglecting.
but recently it has been getting worse.

I hooked a scanner to it and now have a few more codes
a coolant temp sensor high output code
po300 multiple misfire code

so I wanna try and fix the sensor and work my way to the problem.

I have looked through the forums to see where the location is but keep getting confused is the one on the waterpump the sensor that would set off the cel?
or is that the sender.
I want to change out the one that sets off the cel and would cause problems as far as stalls etc.
my temp guage works fine.

I did notice that when I wiggled the sensor/ located on the waterpump the car started to die out and I let go and it and went back to normal.


hate to seem helpless but where is this sensor at???
if anybody has the time to post a pic of the area would really help.

would like to giu a new one at autozone so I can swap it out this weekend.
or is there a recommended brand.

thanks
 

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yes the water pump one is the sensor ect and i been using ine from az for a while now no problems everyone here will day acdelco but if you ask me there just as cheap china stuff like everyone elss now days


az has it listed as coolent temp sensor it has the black head not grey
 

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the ect is the sensor in the water pump. this is for the computer. if you get issues when moving connector replace the sensor and make sure the connector/wires are good. after that is fixed reset the PCM then after a few runs check for new codes. if you still have the p0300 and loss power etc.. check fuel pressures / do the fuel pressure test.

sensors are made from every where now ...parts are not the OEM as the engine came with any more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks fellas will grab one from az today just to make sure its located here (see pic attached)

also I have a new duralast pcv valve are they any good? I know the top choice is the delco one but just wanna throw one on while im in there.
 

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Check the connector & the wire's a few inches up from the connector. If wiggling the harness makes a difference your sensor might be fine. It's not like it's an expensive part though and at 100+k miles it can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok so go ahead and get the connector/wires as well. I am going to mess around with the connector see if something loose car is not near me
it was wrapped with elctric tape from previous owner guess it was a bandage of some sort did not have time to untape it and see what is going on yet.

will keep posted
thanks for the help
 

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i wiggled mine and it broke but not the wire it was the sensor that broke
 

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ok so go ahead and get the connector/wires as well. I am going to mess around with the connector see if something loose car is not near me
it was wrapped with elctric tape from previous owner guess it was a bandage of some sort did not have time to untape it and see what is going on yet.

will keep posted
thanks for the help
my 1996 came with these connector wires taped from the factory . the tape covered the wires to the plastic loom material..my guess is this was to prevent the wires from flexing which over time cause the copper to break off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well it happened again stalled out right in middle of the street on a busy 4way street. cars honking pissed and all

just died all the sudden out of nowhere. this has happened before while at idle and today I was making a turn and it went out was going about 5-10 mph just had stopped at stop light.

this problem is aggravating because I dont know where to start
and I am on a budget.
so I am trying to go the cheap route not wanting to spend close to 200 just to be diagnosed.

where do I start? I have not changed the ect sensor yet plan on buying one I went to auto zone they did not have one I said f it I will just order it online btw is there a recommended one?

but I have a strong feeling this is not the only problem.

I think I just need to take it somebody to really see what is going on. as much as I want to avoid it I dont have the time and honestly I dont have the place to work on my car at will.

if anybody has a good plan on how to attack this by cheap to expensive order maybe I can try and do it myself.

I have read a ton of threads so much info but I dont know where to begin and I dont wanna go throw money on parts that might not be needed.

damn I am ready to sell anybody want a 96 for 4200 in the dmv area??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
also just a lil bit more info
when it stalls and I go back to crank it.
it feels flooded and I pump and pump gas nothing
sometimes pumping the gas works and it feels like it gets unclogged and kicks in

also I have been noticing when I start the car the needle goes to 1000rpm and just sits there or bounces around I guess surges.

when I start my car also its a quick start like it just kicks on real quick hard to describe.
not sure if normal or what its def not a normal start up.
 

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Start with the basics as j cat said in post 4. Read all codes and start there. How up to date is the maintenance on the car - filters, MAF cleaning, plugs, wires, opti-harness, EGR, etc.

I would start with reading codes and cleaning the MAF with CRC MAF sensor cleaner - only use a cleaner specifically for MAF sensors. Whoever scans it, ask to see the running data and see what the MAF reading is and the MAP at idle, and report back. Check fuel pressure - if you don't have a tool, I bet you can borrow one from AZ or Advance or similar.

As far as ECT, if you have a known problem, fix it, and then keep working. If wiggling the connector changes how it runs, it is likely the connector or first few inches of wiring and not the sensor, but the sensor is cheap so.....
 

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also just a lil bit more info
when it stalls and I go back to crank it.
it feels flooded and I pump and pump gas nothing
sometimes pumping the gas works and it feels like it gets unclogged and kicks in

also I have been noticing when I start the car the needle goes to 1000rpm and just sits there or bounces around I guess surges.

when I start my car also its a quick start like it just kicks on real quick hard to describe.
not sure if normal or what its def not a normal start up.
if you had a carb pumping would do something... with this injection pumping the throttle don't do much.. fuel flow is commanded by the mixture and the engine temp, along with MAP/MAF signal inputs...

intermittent engine run problems are mostly electrical. this electrical would include fuel pump ...
 

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Whoever scans it, ask to see the running data and see what the MAF reading is and the MAP at idle, and report back.
What should they be? I have another thread about ECT, with what I believe is the same problem, but on a 94. I do have a scanner and can look at those numbers. Would be nice to know if this could be my problem or part of my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Start with the basics as j cat said in post 4. Read all codes and start there. How up to date is the maintenance on the car - filters, MAF cleaning, plugs, wires, opti-harness, EGR, etc.

I would start with reading codes and cleaning the MAF with CRC MAF sensor cleaner - only use a cleaner specifically for MAF sensors. Whoever scans it, ask to see the running data and see what the MAF reading is and the MAP at idle, and report back. Check fuel pressure - if you don't have a tool, I bet you can borrow one from AZ or Advance or similar.

As far as ECT, if you have a known problem, fix it, and then keep working. If wiggling the connector changes how it runs, it is likely the connector or first few inches of wiring and not the sensor, but the sensor is cheap so.....
ok will see about getting fuel pressure checked.

as far as maintenance not sure how old everything is I bought it when it had 98xxx miles has about 108xxx.
I did clean my kn air intake about 7 months back and cleaned maf sensor too.

the ect sensor I tryed to wiggle it again and see what happened it did not change anything this time..

ill try with the sensor planned on getting a fuel filter
and egr I will see if that is bad.

planned on changing spark plus and wires

since you guys are so helpful:)

mind helping with a shopping list want to order online

ac delco fuel filter

as far as plus heard ac delco the best bet with ngk or taylor wires?

also if you have a good website usually use summit racing.


once again man appreciate you guys taking time to respond
 

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EGR check: start car with hood open. reach one finger around behind EGR and into slots in backside of EGR. Gently push in (toward front on car) on ERG diaphram. If engine 'stumbles' (RPM changes) EGR is working.

PCV check (half way down driver's side intake manifold): pull it out and shake it - it should rattle. If it does not, plug one end with a finger, fill PCV half way with carb cleaner, cap other end with thumb and shake vigorously. Drain/check/repeat process until it ratles. Then reinstall.

CHECK ALL YOUR VACUUM LINES. In particular the large diameter (5/8"?) hose that enters the passengers side of the throttle body - right where i makes a hard 90 degree bend and attaches to the TB.

If you still have a stock intake, be SURE 'home plate' is fitted 'into' the hole in the elbow and the clamp is tight. Make sure All the intake piping clamps between the MAF and the TB are tight.

PCM ground check: Unbolt the coil (front end of drivers side head) and the Ignition Coil Module (ICM) (between coil and head). There is a braided ground strap there that needs to be in good shape (PCM abhores an open ground). clean up all the mating surfaces and use dielectric grease on the surfaces when you bolt it back up. I add a few washers between the ICM and head to help the ICM stay a bit cooler (did you clean the heat-sink fins on the ICM?) And check the ground strap from the back of this head to the firewall (just because its cheap n easy).

Check all your battery cables. Including where the negative cable is bolted to the frame (below coolant tank) and where it bolts to the waterpump (about 10:00 on the WP). Check cable connection at the back of the alternator (under rubber boot).

Buy that 'bish a WIX fuel filter (under drivers side rear door, up inside frame - search for how to depressurize fuel systen and DO NOT USE A DROPLIGHT - USE A FLASHLIGHT WHILE SWAPPING THE FUEL FILTER (your search will uncover 'why' this is in all caps).

Report back or with any ???'s, we are here to serve.

HTH.
 

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...........................I did clean my kn air intake about 7 months back and cleaned maf sensor too....................
I assume you re-oiled the K&N when you cleaned the filter. Clean the MAF again really well. They don't like oil on them, and it is really easy to "over oil" the filter and contaminate the MAF wire.

And of course the stuff Fooser Guy suggests. Easy stuff and labor only.
 

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Mine was doing the same thing or similar and I had to hold it to the floor to start it. It was not my sensor but the wires. I ordered a new wiring harness to the temperature sensor and rewired, and it has not had the problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mine was doing the same thing or similar and I had to hold it to the floor to start it. It was not my sensor but the wires. I ordered a new wiring harness to the temperature sensor and rewired, and it has not had the problem since.

funny I came here to ask where can I get the wiring harness lol

where did you order it from I cant find it anywhere. is there another name for it?

on way to parts store to order a ac delco fuel filter to install tomorrow and rent a fuel pressure tester will post results when I can
 
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