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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I have read the "go fast basics", and they were very helpful. I have read the LT1 manual and have come to the conclusion the LT1 may not be the engine for me. So I need some opinions. I want a street friendly stroker in the 400-500 hp range. Its going to be my cruiser (not daily), and not hit the strip, much. I was thinking with going with the LS and build from there, but the availability of a Gen 1 motor and accessories is appealing to me. Which is the easiest swap and economically friendly, not so much cost but availability of parts. I don't mind sticking with the LT1 but parts seam to cost more and be less available.

Any opinions, regrets would be appreciated.
 

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.....I want a street friendly stroker in the 400-500 hp range. Its going to be my cruiser (not daily), and not hit the strip, much......
Is this at the crank or wheels?

If at the crank, I recommend a 383 or 396ci LT1 with ported heads yielding about 11:1 static compression ratio.....with a cam with that's about a 226* to 230* intake duration and close to .600" lift.....as a start.

Then go with the normal bolt-ons.....52mm TB, 36 to 42LB Fuel Injectors, steel 1.6 Comp Cams roller rockers, Gen-2 Tri-Ys, 2.5" exhaust (I like Dynomax) and a good PCM tune.

3.73 gears, Eaton Posi, a built tranny (CPT) and a 3000 to 3600 stall TC (I like Yank).

But that's just what I'd do.......

KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At the crank is fine, I don't need to be the top dog, but a growl when I stretch her legs is the goal.

I am assuming that cast crank and rods will suffice for the HP range, and can they handle an occasional shot of juice in the 100hp range?

I am trying to stay away from forged parts for obvious reasons, as once this is built I will be happy staying where it works. This car gets about 500 miles a year, it is for when I feel like being cool again, although I am sure once the grunt is felt it will get a bit more mileage.

Anywhere other than Summit or Jegs offer bottom end, top end kits for the LT1?
 

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Is this at the crank or wheels?

If at the crank, I recommend a 383 or 396ci LT1 with ported heads yielding about 11:1 static compression ratio.....with a cam with that's about a 226* to 230* intake duration and close to .600" lift.....as a start.

Then go with the normal bolt-ons.....52mm TB, 36 to 42LB Fuel Injectors, steel 1.6 Comp Cams roller rockers, Gen-2 Tri-Ys, 2.5" exhaust (I like Dynomax) and a good PCM tune.

3.73 gears, Eaton Posi, a built tranny (CPT) and a 3000 to 3600 stall TC (I like Yank).

But that's just what I'd do.......

KW
Kevin about how much HP, to the wheels, to get one of our b-bodies across the quarter in 12 seconds?
 

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Kevin about how much HP, to the wheels, to get one of our b-bodies across the quarter in 12 seconds?
Hi, I'm Kevin :D
I had 310 to the wheels and ran 12.3's in a 3900 lb car. With more weight and without the rest of the car set up to ET well, shoot for 400 to the wheels just to make sure you get IN the 12's.
Don't waste your money on an aftermarket cast rotating assembly. They are junk. Either stick with the GM rotating assembly or go forged stroker. See my sig; you don't need a stroker to run 12's. You could pile 1000 lbs on my car and still run 12's.
 

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Hi, I'm Kevin :D
I had 310 to the wheels and ran 12.3's in a 3900 lb car. With more weight and without the rest of the car set up to ET well, shoot for 400 to the wheels just to make sure you get IN the 12's.
Don't waste your money on an aftermarket cast rotating assembly. They are junk. Either stick with the GM rotating assembly or go forged stroker. See my sig; you don't need a stroker to run 12's. You could pile 1000 lbs on my car and still run 12's.
LOL!

12 was my original goal in the 1/4 when i first started modifying it, a long ass time ago and I figured 500 hp at the block should be enough power to roll my fat ass and my car in 12 seconds. I never asked anyone here specifically, so Thanks Pat!
 

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NATE,
Just to be clear, I'M no way, no how, in the same league with these guys! Their advice is certainly more valuable than mine. Also, I thought you were talking 500 rwhp. I'm making a little over 400 and, with the stereo, etc. I'm way too heavy to be competitive....best time ever was a 12.12!
 

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NATE,
Just to be clear, I'M no way, no how, in the same league with these guys! Their advice is certainly more valuable than mine. Also, I thought you were talking 500 rwhp. I'm making a little over 400 and, with the stereo, etc. I'm way too heavy to be competitive....best time ever was a 12.12!

Too heavy to compete?
Low 12's??
It is Bracket Racing
All you need is seat time to be competitve.

D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What is the bottom end of a LT1 good to? I am not opposed to not stroking at this time and keeping the stock bottom end. I was just always taught to go through the bottom at the same time as the top. Engine has under 80,000 on it. Could I get to the numbers I mentioned getting the stock heads ported and opened up or am I going to need to move to a set of Trick Flows or the like. Obviously a tune and addons to open it up.
 

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You could keep the stock parts and freshen up the bottom end (bearings mainly) and with a decent heads/cam package and supporting mods easily run 12's.
 

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Nate, I don't want to throw a curve ball here, but Super Chevy just had a nice little write-up on a bulid of a 355 vs. a 383...both with all the same parts, I can't remember the exact #s, I can get them when I get home in the A.M.. Anyway, what I do remember is the 383 made more TQ, from 3k to like 5k rpms than the 355 made at peak. If a low mile/ weekend street bruiser is what you have in mind that is the way I would go. Plus the the peak's were at a lower RPM across the board, the engine never had to see 6k or above.
 

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NATE,.....I thought you were talking 500 rwhp......
Well.....I keyed in on his comment; "street friendly stroker".

Ain't nothing friendly about 400-500 rwHP :D !

KW
 

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BTW, I ran mid-12's, full weight on 17" BFG Drag radials (FTL, BTW) with a set-up that dyno'ed at about 370 HP at the wheels.

So 400 rwHP should easily get you there, especially if you're set-up for drag racing.

KW
Good Info, Thanks! Originally I was going to go with a forced induction stroker 383 for 500 hp but if I can get there (in the 12's) on a NA motor I would rathger do that. Supercharger/Turbo = cheatin' :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys, I think I have narrowed it down to keeping with the LT1. I know KW Baraka posted his setup, would you guys mind sharing some of your NA setups. Whether it be the 350 or the 383, I would like to hear whats working for you guys.


 

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Thanks guys, I think I have narrowed it down to keeping with the LT1. I know KW Baraka posted his setup, would you guys mind sharing some of your NA setups. Whether it be the 350 or the 383, I would like to hear whats working for you guys.


I have a stock bottom end LT1 with aluminum heads built by TPIS with CC Promag 1.6 Roller rockers and a CC503 cam. Dans Tri-Y headers that runs a full 2.5 inch Frankenstein exhaust with Flowmaster super 40 mufflers. Stock converter that will be upgraded to a 2800-300 stall and 3.73 gears. I hope to be pushing 320-330 rwhp. I am putting it away this weekend for winter andplan on dyno it in the spring.
 

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I take it as he just wants a street car that he could take to the track from time to time. If so then don't care what time it runs but focus on how it feels and drives on the street. If so then you don't have to do much to get what you want and what you want is torque, not horse power. You want all your power in the 2000 to 4500 RPM range because thats what you use on the street, not 5 and 6K.

What was said about the 383 having more torque at a lower RPM than a 350 makes at max is too true. same rule applies going from a 383 to a 409 or 3.75 crank to a 4" crank.

You can take your 80K LT1 and put a 4" crank, a piston kit, use your stock rods, maybe a head upgrade if you want but you don't have to because you want all your power in the 2 to 4K range and the stock heads will do that on a motor this big, a 58MM TB, larger injectors of 42 or 48, midrange cam with springs, computer tune and thats all you need to get what it sounds like you want. Buy the parts used, other than the piston kit and valve springs, and you could be done for 2K if you can do the work. Add some headers and exhaust and you have a very mean street car that will run all day with no issues.

It's not going to light up the ET records but it will light up the street and be better on the street than a more race type motor that will cost you three or four times as much.

Again, if thats what your looking for and if it is you don't have to spend a lot to get there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Jeff, I appreciate the encouragement in getting this done for about 2k. Thats all I am looking for, this car serves one purpose, and that is when I get home from a long day at work I can drive, nice part about the b-body is I can haul the whole family when I drive, if I have to. I am happy with the car as it sits with one exception, its too dang quite. There are many ways to make it "loud", but if I am going to do so I want some power to go with it. I had cars that were just loud as a kid and I want some more power. I do plan on doing the work myself and with exception to any machine work needed, I have a pretty good shop for that.
 
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