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Discussion Starter #1
After 266,000 miles I've decided to pull the engine from my 1995 Impala SS and have it rebuilt. It doesn't really need it (there are no problems with oil pressure, compression, or valve sealing), but there's enough going on with oil leaks, a broken exhaust manifold bolt, a/c compressor failure, and such that I decided I'd rather just have it all gone through. A number of machine shops have closed in my local area, so the shop I'm working with recommended Jasper's "Authentic Custom Engines" rebuild process with a documentation package. They're going to rebuild and return my factory-installed original engine and it'll come with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. Total cost should be in the $7K range, and Jasper is saying that it'll take approximately 11-12 weeks before the engine comes back. I'll add more info here as the project progresses.

It was nice to find the factory-stamped partial VIN on the side of my block:

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It was also nice to not find any sludge inside the engine. I've been doing regular oil changes with Mobil 1 5W-30 since the car was brand new, and it shows.

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Hi, good luck with the rebuild. My mech used to get motors from Jasper all the time then the quality went down hill big time. So now he has a different source. This was maybe 5yrs ago, so not sure they got their act together again. I have 311K on my tranny, but on the 4th motor, so i been through the motor hunt a few times. I just get RoadMaster LT1's cuz owners rarely beat on those cars... :)
-ALF out...
 

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Angelo what ruins your motors? Usually it's the factory 4L60Es that don't last, not the stock motors.

I've had great results with Jasper transmissions in my non-4L60E vehicles (I rebuild the 4L60Es myself). Out of 4 Jasper transmissions I only had trouble with one, and they replaced it under warranty very quickly.
 

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Hi, got 138K out of OEM and spun a bearing. 2nd i killed on the Dyno after 11K spun a bearing again, got 3rd free cuz 2nd was under warranty. 3rd died cuz WP bearing went and i didn't realize temp gauge was "abnormally" high, so i cracked something from over heating and got the milkshake in the reservoir. I had the 160 stat so i should have known it was running high, but car ran great. So now on 4th and i know where temp needle should be when WP is working so i doubt this one will die from same fate.
With COVID i don't drive much anymore which is for the best as you know in my tranny thread Reverse is ready to give up the ghost. :)
-ALF out....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So here's the first surprise: a damaged harmonic balancer. I noticed this chipped rib while bead blasting it after cleaning it up. It's probably still usable, but why take a chance with a damaged 25 year old part? I have a new ATP 102056 coming to replace it.

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Not to mention the gooning on the back edge where it appears to be beaten with a hammer
Yup, I saw that, too. I had a shop replace the OptiSpark when it failed while on a road trip some time ago. That's the only time it wasn't pulled by me, and it really makes me wonder what the (bleep) went on with that repair.
 

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Harmonic damper rings tend not to be in good shape after 25 years. I'm replacing the ones on the two cars I'm restoring right now.
 

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At 266,000 miles. I would only change gaskets and seals replace broken exhaust bolt clean paint and reinstall the engine.
I have 315,000 on my engine and trans original. I have little over 200,000 on cap and rotor. I use Mobil 15W50 year round. Still going strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have some parts that are ready for re-installation. Here's the new ATP 102056 harmonic balancer/pulley with the original hub:

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The rebuilt factory-original OptiSpark with a new vacuum harness and a new wiring harness from Gary Clark of Innovative Wiring:

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
More refurbished parts! Let's start with the accessory bracket. I've installed a new GM power steering pump that I bought many years ago, a new gates power steering reservoir hose, new hose clamps, and a new dynamic tensioner. The bracket was cleaned, bead blasted, primed, and painted with high heat aluminum paint. All threaded holes were chased with a tap. I had to heli-coil one of the threaded holes for the dynamic tensioner.

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Here's the factory original water pump. It was rebuilt by the Flying Dutchman.

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The air injection pump and bracket. I bought this pump soon after I bought my car in 1995, figuring that I'd want to use it when I got around to my engine rebuild project (no, I'm not interested in removing the pump). This bracket got the same treatment as the accessory bracket.

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Ahh the AIR Pump. $$$ blown because of those stupid $8 checkvalves that nobody replaced on time.
 

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OP

If you have not rebuilt the motor yet...Blueprint makes a very good rebuild. I just put a 355 in a 67 Camaro but I bought it direct from BP. Same $ as Jegs/Summit. They dyno every motor and you get the results with the motor

 

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Discussion Starter #18
OP

If you have not rebuilt the motor yet...Blueprint makes a very good rebuild. I just put a 355 in a 67 Camaro but I bought it direct from BP. Same $ as Jegs/Summit. They dyno every motor and you get the results with the motor
Thanks, but my long block is already in Jasper's hands.
 

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I read Jasper's literature on a semi-regular basis. They do publish build sheets on their transmissions and what I read is very good. I know they partner closely with my favorite aftermarket transmission parts supplier so at least they're hanging with the right crowd there. In fact, I bought their transmission for my minivan specifically because Jasper uses a torque converter with a billet front cover and another source for a 41TE billet converter cover was not readily apparent.
 
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