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Assuming no other changes front OR rear,,
Other than radical ride height changes the caster should not be affected by re-re of a lower arm.
And and increase of caster means the lower ball joint has to have moved forward.

Sacked lower bushes , " waller'd " out lower bolts are possibilities.

Or is it possible upper arm mountings were not super tight and the change was from your road course activities ?

Just the act of RE&RE of lower arms should not radically change things but the factory hardware on 94-95 sucks.
Case in point, my car to my knowledge had never been curbed and its l+r shim stacks were near identical with the alignment I wanted.
When I changed the frame out with a new GM one , I reassembled with the same shim stacks.
The alignment was still spot on, didn't even adjust toe.
 

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I would and do level the ground , not the car.
I would beg to differ on using the " need this number - got this number- do this shim" from the manual.
It is a guideline only and results will not be exact. Slop, arm angles due to height, many things prevent it from being acurate.
Right up there with marking adjuster cams on other cars and thinking the alignment will not change.

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Deadly accurate caster with rudimentary tools I find at times challenging.
Direct gauge on ball joint pins work but few cars you can get at.
Caster sweep , to be exact , must be the exact degree sweep with a proper zero starting point.
If the toe or camber is way off it has to be roughed in be fore reading caster sweep.
If it is out or you don't have true steer ahead ( wheels striaght and no rear thrust) the sweep results will be inaccurate.
 
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