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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a weird experience the other night. When pulling out from a red light in slow traffic, the car bogged a bit. I stepped on the gas a little more, and it shifted down, when ti normally wouldn’t have. As I pulled out in traffic, it just didn’t feel right. As traffic got up to speed, it was definite that it wasn’t right. It decided to avoid the Interstate and nurse it home on local roads. Then the electronics started acting really funny.

The speedo started flashing off and on and all the dash lights, turn signals, etc. kept flashing in no real describable manner, other than weird. For example, the odometer was flashing higher and lower mileages. It was like a syi fi movie.

The car was running, but in what I would describe as a limp home mode. I came to a red light, and when I stopped, I slipped it into neutral to try to keep it running, but it shut off. Would not refire at all.

I was in a high traffic area, so didn’t try to trouble shoot anything, A cop helped me push it off the road and had it towed home.

The next day, I turned the key on and it seemed Ok. Dash lit up, gages worked. The car started and will idle and move. But, after a short time of restarting and checking it, the entire dash went out. Now, I have no seedo, no gages at all.

I’m thinking something is wrong in the dash panel circuit board or the feed to the dash panel circuit board. Possibly those two sets of pin connectors on either side of the board. I have spare circuit boards, but before I go through a change out, I thought I’d check if there may be a simpler fix.
 

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he car was running, but in what I would describe as a limp home mode.
I slipped it into neutral to try to keep it running, but it shut off. Would not refire at all.
The car will run without the dash cluster, park lights, or turn signals.

What I am saying is something major was affecting your entire car and things blinking were the result.

I would test the battery and alternator (bad diodes) for proper function then the cables, clamps, and ground connections. A worn out ignition switch would also match your engine/electrical problems.

If the fuses are good you may now have a cluster problem but you also have some sort of car wide issue.

"Stealth mode " allowed cars 9C1 cars to turn off the speedo/odometer for night work.[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The car will run without the dash cluster, park lights, or turn signals.

What I am saying is something major was affecting your entire car and things blinking were the result.

I would test the battery and alternator (bad diodes) for proper function then the cables, clamps, and ground connections. A worn out ignition switch would also match your engine/electrical problems.

If the fuses are good you may now have a cluster problem but you also have some sort of car wide issue.

"Stealth mode " allowed cars 9C1 cars to turn off the speedo/odometer for night work.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I guess I was trying to ignore the worst case possibility. Will give the overall car a going over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I guess I was trying to ignore the worst case possibility. Will give the overall car a going over.
[/QUOTE]
Worn ignition switch. Any ideas on how to check it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you can I recommend you change your title to something about flashing lights, engine stall and no restart.


Did anything work? Warning lights? By refire do you mean crank no start, or no cranking?
It cranked fine, but wouldn't even try to fire up. Started fine next morning at home.
 

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Worn ignition switch. Any ideas on how to check it out?
When the engine is running gently move the key cylinder forward and back a small amount. The next test would be to get out the volt meter and check specific points.

I do not have time now but no speedo AND no voltmeter, oil, gas, and temp gauges sounds like a fuse/wiring issue.

Or if you have had the cluster out a connector came out. That would be one in a million.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When the engine is running gently move the key cylinder forward and back a small amount. The next test would be to get out the volt meter and check specific points.

I do not have time now but no speedo AND no voltmeter, oil, gas, and temp gauges sounds like a fuse/wiring issue.

Or if you have had the cluster out a connector came out. That would be one in a million.
[QUOTE="Z09B4U, post: 12155004, me
Thanks. I'll give the total electrical system a good check tomorrow. This is my 59 bodied, 95SS, so there are plenty of places where things could have come lose over the years.
 

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I had a weird experience the other night. When pulling out from a red light in slow traffic, the car bogged a bit. I stepped on the gas a little more, and it shifted down, when ti normally wouldn’t have. As I pulled out in traffic, it just didn’t feel right. As traffic got up to speed, it was definite that it wasn’t right. It decided to avoid the Interstate and nurse it home on local roads. Then the electronics started acting really funny.

The speedo started flashing off and on and all the dash lights, turn signals, etc. kept flashing in no real describable manner, other than weird. For example, the odometer was flashing higher and lower mileages. It was like a syi fi movie.

The car was running, but in what I would describe as a limp home mode. I came to a red light, and when I stopped, I slipped it into neutral to try to keep it running, but it shut off. Would not refire at all.

I was in a high traffic area, so didn’t try to trouble shoot anything, A cop helped me push it off the road and had it towed home.

The next day, I turned the key on and it seemed Ok. Dash lit up, gages worked. The car started and will idle and move. But, after a short time of restarting and checking it, the entire dash went out. Now, I have no seedo, no gages at all.

I’m thinking something is wrong in the dash panel circuit board or the feed to the dash panel circuit board. Possibly those two sets of pin connectors on either side of the board. I have spare circuit boards, but before I go through a change out, I thought I’d check if there may be a simpler fix.
Check the Auxillary battery post/nut see if it's over heated/melted. Located under hood on side of fuse box/relay center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will do. Today I plan a total electrical connection check. Underhood and underdash.
UPDATE
I did the easy stuff this morning. Checked the aux battery post. It was secure and clean. But, the plastic cover was melted. I sanded it and put on dielectric grease. Nothing seemed to change. Still no dash gages, etc. But, read below about my volt gage..
Found two blown 10 amp fuses. #11 I/P INDC and #20 A/C DRL. After replacing them everything seems back to normal. But, I have not found the underlying cause that blew them.
One thing I noticed. My dash volt gage has not been tracking correctly for quite a while now. It would often read a lot lower than what a voltmeter showed. I planned on replacing it during this fix. But, it now tracks correctly. Could cleaning the auxiliary post have made that difference?
Now, I'm wondering why the Aux post plastic melted.
Was that connection bad? It sure seemed OK. Or is something else causing it to heat up?
I'm also suspicious of my ignition switch and the wiring associated with the steering post in general.
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I appreciate them.
 

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Now, I'm wondering why the Aux post plastic melted.
Was that connection bad? It sure seemed OK. Or is something else causing it to heat up?
Did you check the side bolt?
I think the "buss bars " that feed the fuses could be a heat source for the post.

Hood Finger Motor vehicle Circuit component Bumper


My dash volt gage has not been tracking correctly for quite a while now. It would often read a lot lower than what a voltmeter showed. I planned on replacing it during this fix. But, it now tracks correctly. Could cleaning the auxiliary post have made that difference?
Might have. If things are dirty they become a resistor that generates heat and drops voltage. More current more heat and voltage drop.

Do you have extra loads going through that fuse box? I am thinking of after market rad fans.

Found two blown 10 amp fuses. #11 I/P INDC and #20 A/C DRL. After replacing them everything seems back to normal. But, I have not found the underlying cause that blew them.
If the motor and alternator were cutting in and out at the same time you might have had a "power surge"

Do you have the stock ground to the head (for PCM) by the coil? If that ground is not good it will shut down the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you check the side bolt?
I think the "buss bars " that feed the fuses could be a heat source for the post.

View attachment 207312


Might have. If things are dirty they become a resistor that generates heat and drops voltage. More current more heat and voltage drop.

Do you have extra loads going through that fuse box? I am thinking of after market rad fans.



If the motor and alternator were cutting in and out at the same time you might have had a "power surge"

Do you have the stock ground to the head (for PCM) by the coil? If that ground is not good it will shut down the motor.
No! Didn't know that the "side bolt " existed . Found it, will clean and tighten.
Don't have any extra power robbing ad- ons. Although the car is a 59/95 morphodite, I have tried to keep the 95 running gear as "stock" as possible. Mainly so stuff like this doesn't happen. Radiator fans are just the 2 95 stock units. Keep it nice and cool in the 59 engine compartment. Actually a touch cooler than my real 95 SS.
I am guardedly optimistic that the Aux bolt that you led me to was the issue. My Volt gage is tracking beautifully now, which it hadn't for several months.
Now going out to c,ean that side bolt.
 

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Jimpala95 specifically mentioned the post. I thought my general comment of check the battery cables would lead you there but in retrospect Jimpala95's direct suggestion was better information.
 

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Everything described here sounds to me like classic low voltage symptoms. The dash cluster will behave erratically as soon as voltage drops below ~10 volts at the cluster feed. Blown fuses could have been caused by high impedance connections at the AUX post as described (esp if melted). Sounds like you are on top of it. If it still keeps happening, I would check the alternator next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Agreeed. I'm going to give all electrical connections, especially grounds a good check. I'm really optimistic now that my volt meter now tracks correctly. It hadn't for a few months, showing low voltage, while I knew both tne battery and alternator were putting out. I thought I had a bad gage. Lesson learned. Believe your instruments. At least heed them
 

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Yep. But FYI, it's also possible that the volt gauge can go out of calibration on these cars (it pegs to 8V when you shut the car off, and this pegging can cause shaft rotation). But fixing the gauge requires a properly functioning and healthy electrical system. It's always proper to test other causes first then focus on the gauge if no other faults or issues are found.

I plan to do a YouTube video on my channel sometime in the coming months... DIY gauge calibration for these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Everything described here sounds to me like classic low voltage symptoms. The dash cluster will behave erratically as soon as voltage drops below ~10 volts at the cluster feed. Blown fuses could have been caused by high impedance connections at the AUX post as described (esp if melted). Sounds like you are on top of it. If it still keeps happening, I would check the alternator next.
I just noticed all of your fleet. Impressive. Especially the get-home roll back. A good friend had one that really came in handy. He retired and sold the business. Really miss it.
Jack
 

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I just noticed all of your fleet. Impressive. Especially the get-home roll back. A good friend had one that really came in handy. He retired and sold the business. Really miss it.
Jack
Thanks. I've definitely had some adventures with that truck, cars and friends. And this is just a hobby not a business. LOL
 
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