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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a bad launch where the car got kinda sideways when the rear end broke loose. When it came down the car got even more squirrelly and I had to fight it to keep it going straight. I had the belt off so I thought it was just tough to control given the big stock wheels.

When I got to the pits I noticed the right front wheel was tilted inward at the top. The stud that holds the upper A-frame rod broke in half.

Is this a freak accident or should I be looking for some better studs? I'm considering replacing all 4 of them ASAP!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Maybe it's from that 10 extra pounds you gained since December. ;)

Sounds like one of those "freak" incidents. Always time to upgrade with better parts when the originals break.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine didn't break, but they were rusty and ****ty looking when I rebuilt my front end...so I got new ones. They tap right out of the frame just like wheel studs. Do your DAMDEST to avoid turning them though...they're knurled where they go through the frame, and they CAN strip out those holes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They say truth is stranger than fiction. Well, I'm entering data into my Summit log book for this day and I notice, after the fact, that the "Track Tip" for the page I'm on is by Don Gralits and it's titled "Check your Chassis". He recommends looking over the chassis after each event looking for cracks and such. Note to self, read the Track tips before staging!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by Mike454SS:
Mine didn't break, but they were rusty and ****ty looking when I rebuilt my front end...so I got new ones. They tap right out of the frame just like wheel studs. Do your DAMDEST to avoid turning them though...they're knurled where they go through the frame, and they CAN strip out those holes.
Funny you should mention wheel studs. I got the idea to use a wheel stud and was about to bang one out of the rotor, but one of the racers had a nut and bolt that worked perfectly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've never seen that happen. That is SCARY.
Maybe someone in the past, overtorqued[created a stress fracture] that bolt[maybe others too?].

:eek: You need to replace ALL, for peace of mind.
Buy the GM replacements.
They are specialized; i. e. have tiny splines on shoulder just under hex head, that press into frame hole/s.
As previously mentioned, DO NOT turn them out.
I used a 4" C-Clamp w/socket** as receiver, to press bolt out of frame. Attack through wheel well[wheel removed, of course].

**short socket, same size as hex on bolt.

Note: Splines are only about 1/8" long.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Stumpy,

When I helped someone rebuild their front end a year or so ago, he opted to replace all 4 of the alignment studs (as I call them) with new GM parts. The new GM studs didn't fit the existing hole very well (no where near as tightly as the originals) and we had to use a wrench/socket to hold the stud from spinning as the locking nuts were tightened.

I'm not sure why the GM replacement part didn't fit like the original did. I know alignment shops that find the studs spinning, will often zap them with a mig welder(from the wheel side) to keep them anchored so they can complete the alignment without having another set of hands hold the stud from spinning.

Gary
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you change your camber settings as often as I do... it's inevetable that the bolts/studs will start spinning... but I wouldn't have expected them to break.

The bolt head access with my tubulars is much better... so it's not an issue for me to get a wrench on the head to keep it from spinning. But with the stock arms it's a pain, so it may be worth the trouble to find a press-in that's tight or to tac-weld it in place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I ordered replacements for all 4 bolts and nuts. It's really not that hard to get them in an out with the wheel off and the spring compressed by jacking up the lower A arm. I should be able to do both in less than an hour. Then it's off to the shop for alignment.

BTW, what should I do with the front A Arms from a drag racing perspective? I assume I'll want less toe and such for a more straight line tracking setup, but should they also be a bit looser so they fall with less resistance?

TIA
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Glen : short term, you'd wanna set it up so that you have as close to zero toe as possible AND zero camber WITH the front end "up" like it is for drag racing. Meaning, you'll want a bit of POSITIVE camber at rest, and just slightly toe out. As a stock geometry suspension "rises up", it will toe in and camber gets more negative.

Longer term, think seriously about the Del-a-lum bushings. It is quite dramatic how much more "freely" they let the arms rotate when everything is torqued down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
happend to me once, just not in this car, it was in 78 camaro, and it happend when i pulled into my driveway after work.
no racing in that car, it was just tired, 195k miles
and it only cost 150 bux, so i parted it out, went down and bought a 97 sonoma, 1300 down(parted out cars equal cash).
 
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