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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the nitrous run the other day, I noticed a knocking coming from under the hood. Sure enough, I blew out another header gasket. I did the same thing back in December when I was testing the nitrous.

What do you guys run, that you've found to hold up under the nitrous? Are the copper or aluminum gaskets any good? And what brand do you like?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ClearImage Gaskets! 30 beans but worth every penny. I had fel pro and mr. gaskets burn through my Edelbrock headers, ClearImage gaskets are thick and are reliable. Never had a problem since.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Nory:
MR. Gasket Ultra Seals, and double up if you can... I get em for about $18 each.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


That's what I'm running now. They do fine until I hit the juice.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stoney, what headers are you using? You might want to make sure the headers didn't get bent or warped at the flange. The weld on where primaries meet the flange on my Dynomax headers suck! They were supposed to be designed so it pushes into the gasket but the surface ont he header is not equally tall, so it caused a small leak with one gasket...
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, the first mod planned for this year is a set of long tubes, but currently I'm running AS&M's. And yes, the thought that the flange might be warped HAS crossed my mind. But I still need a good seal for a couple of months until the budget can stand a new set of headers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, this one is at the #3 cylinder. The last two have been on #2, so I'm not too upset since the driver's side is so much easier to get off. The gaskets were doubled Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals, BTW.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Personally I like the headers that don't have a flange...

As in, the primaries are not connect via the the flange... This gives a better seal with the gasket.

The only negatve side I see about this, is that the header itself might be more prong to bending, but that is highly unlikely...

So, if you want, you could try to cut the flange if you wanted to do a low budget fix...

[Insert Disclaimer here]
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That might be something to try as a last ditch effort, but I think first I'm going to try a set of Hooker long tubes. They have a set of headers for full sized cars with straight plug heads, which the stock heads are, for less than $200; and then just fab up the connection to the exhaust. I like Dan's stuff, but I just can't afford it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did the Dynomax 86001 Headers. I had to delete the brace frame that goes diagnolly (sp?) from the frame to the front cross member. I didn't notice any difference in handling.

The driver side fit 95% perfectly with the exception that I had to bent the oil cooler lines a bit...

The hardest part about the passenger side was that the header is extremyl close the the frame...

In a bud's Impala, we had to hammer the primary tube just a bit... On my car I had 1/16 of an inch of clearance, so we left it at that...

Next is the A/C lines..

Which If I knew what I knew now, I would have just disconnect the lines and make one of the lines go in between the number 2 primary tube...

Also, make sure you wrap you starter cable and wiring with header wrap...

My starter cable runs and sits in between the primary tubes because I wrapped the crap out of it with header wrap and then electrical tape.. When he headed up the elctrical tape basically melted into the header wrap, so now I don't have to worry about the header wrapping coming apart.

Also, I still am using the MSD wires, they worked fine, all you have to go is route them carefully....
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
See, I'm not comfortable with cutting that brace. You may not notice anything now, but down the line you're going to have increased metal fatigue in the frame members - especially if you're planning suspension upgrades, as I am.

Blue Wail is using the flowtech afterburners and he didn't have to cut anything; and I'm going to try the Hooker long tubes for full size cars as you can get them with O2 bungs installed and ceramic coated. If the parts I order don't fit, I can always swap things out till they do.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stonebreaker,

I will second the CIA recommendation. You may not be able to afford the headers, but you can afford the gaskets! These gaskets are THICK, as in about 3/16". They should seal and not blow unless you have a SERIOUS problem with trueness of the flange.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They sound like the original AS&M gaskets. I found some copper ones locally last night, and was going to install them today. But now we're supposed to have rain all day... :mad:
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the best are copper gaskets and safety wired header bolts. Due to the safety wire the heads can not move no matter what and hence the gasket can't blow anymore. It worked on my turbo for many many month whereas everything else blew within 2 month due to the extreme temps.

On my blown big block I went one stepo further and I have o-ringed the exhaust ports, this is never ever going to leak for sure.

hz
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, Heinz. I'll give the coppers a try since I already have them. What's this 'safety wire' process? Is it hard to do?
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Randy, I have been running Earls with the graphite inserts. I havent changed tham yet and the turbo gets damn hot!
My recommendation!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
safety wiring is using a thin stainless steel wire like the do on race cars on suspension components or aeroplanes to make sure that bolts stay in place. Basically, just drill a small holes through your header bolts (or buy pre drilled ones) and put the wire through and around the exhaust pipe over to the other bolt and twist the ends together. JEGS/Summit have all the stuff, it is cheap.

The trick to keep gaskest alive is to make sure that the bolts never move during a heat cycle, if the do they become loose and the gasket blows because you weaken the clamping. Once a little loose, it'll blow completely very soon thereafter.

I had even Earls blow because a bolt worked loose just enough to make it blow, going 180mph for some time on the Autobahn plays havoc on your turbo headers because they are literally bright red. With the safety wiring, no way it moves anywhere !
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, got the copper gasket installed on the driver's side, and it does leak a little. But it's only a little hiss-hiss-hiss, whereas before it sounded like a rod knock. I can definitely live with it if it stays the way it is. Now to cure the leak on the passenger side...
 
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