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Hello, I have a 94 Roadmaster that I just did some A/C work on. I changed out the Variable Orifice tube that I had in there for a stock fixed one. Vent temps are 40 degrees but it just doesn't seem as cold as before. I'm in HOT Florida. Gauge pressures are good at Low 40- High 220.



So the question is, since I don't want to go back to a Variable tube is there an easy way to have both radiator fans on all the time for the summer for slow traffic idling and then return to stock settings for the "winter" easily? I don't want a Check engine light either. Thank you much. Uvaldi.
 

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Scroll down, remote fan harness:

Caprice / Impala SS / Roadmaster | IW

That said, you should not need this with properly running cooling and HVAC systems. Plenty of folks with hotter temps then you and it works fine.

Reprogramming your turn on fan temps is worthwhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Scroll down, remote fan harness:

Caprice / Impala SS / Roadmaster | IW

That said, you should not need this with properly running cooling and HVAC systems. Plenty of folks with hotter temps then you and it works fine.

Reprogramming your turn on fan temps is worthwhile.



Thanks, You are right. I'm probably just grabbing at straws hoping to get it like it was. Just needs some more fine tuning of the A/C system. Appreciate the info however...
 

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Do you have 1 mech and one electric fan or 2 electric?
 

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Hello, I have a 94 Roadmaster that I just did some AC work on. I changed out the Variable Orifice tube that I had in there for a stock fixed one.
Vent temps are 40°F but it just doesn't seem as cold as before. I'm in HOT Florida. Gauge pressures are good at Low 40- High 220.

So, since I don't want to go back to a Variable tube is there an easy way to have both radiator fans on all the time for the summer for slow traffic idling, and then return to stock settings for the "winter" easily?
I don't want a Check engine light either. Thank you much. Uvaldi.
Gary's remote fan harness is an outstanding idea for racers, but it's fair to say that no one really NEEDS it.
Wiring fans to stay on CONSTANTLY is very bad for fan motors, wiring, relays, & even the relay box itself.)
Besides MANY other improvements, radiator fan-on settings can be adjusted to act as you want without a check engine light, or any need to "return to stock settings for the winter", even with the OEM 180°F tstat.

You're in "HOT Florida". If your coldest winter temps have never gotten under 41°F, use a 160°F thermostat instead of the OEM 180°F tstat.
Reprogramming + 160°F yields even better results [which might even include increasing the longevity of your 4L60E].

If your 2ndary fan is a 100 watt fan, the 240W 2ndary fan is a worthy upgrade. However, that also requires upgrading the wiring for the 2ndary fan.
Also, moving the fan motor relays out of the relay box should almost be considered mandatory if you increase 2ndary fan motor's duty cycle. You'd want the TSB harness (Caprice / Impala SS / Roadmaster | IW).
 
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