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Discussion Starter #1
Here are the differences between a B body and D body.
I will be installing a 95 373 Eaton Posi 9c1 disc brake rear end and new Pypes Exhaust on my Fleetwood project this Fall. ( I know I will lose ABS and traction control, but I always delete ABS)

I thought I would start looking for aluminum driveshaft options, before having Denny make one for $550, Fleetwoods are 61 3/8, end of u-joint cup to end of u-joint cup,
I think 1995 Chevy full size G20 vans are close to the same size and 3.5 aluminum with a black rubber wrapper to reduce noise.
The stock fleetwood shaft gets larger in the center

Just thought I would post some pics of the length differences
 

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That shows how much of the FW ~5.6" longer wb is behind the firewall. Pypes is a good choice IMO. The Pro-V catback setup on my '88 MonteSS is very civil (quite quiet) at idle and stomping it only goes louder in the lower frequencies with zero tinny or brappy.

I'm interested seeing your project advance during the snow and ice here eh.

Bob out
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fleetwood

Thanks Bob,
I cannot believe the room between the back on engine and firewall. I have a set of nice new 93-97 Fbody Stainless steel headers that I will check and see if they fit on a Fleetwood before I yank out the old engine, I bet they will fit like a glove with all that additional room back there. Maybe the frame braces will need to be adjusted a bit still.

Also the Fleetwood's drive shaft has a larger tube section in the middle of it. I wonder if the special 93 Fleetwoods with the 373s or 342s tow package cars from the factory had the same driveshaft as all fleetwoods and that is why the driveshaft is much larger than a B-body car to reduce vibrations.

It should be a fun winter project.
Still trying to decide what engine to install,
Option 1)
Traditional Lt1 with the 227 camshaft, 1.6 Roller rockers, electric water pump, long tube headers with cats, Pypes 2.5 nice low noise exhaust, 52mm TB, 2800 yank stall, and 373 gears with the caprice disk brake rear end, Boxed lower control arms, and full Hotchkis sway bars, Bilstein shocks with air bags in the rear coils attached to factory air pump,
Option 2)
or put the LS 6.0 from the van I bought in there with all the rest of the stuff.
 

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I'm all for getting more thoughts than just mine here, but others may want to know you've had/have a total 30 LTs, and you're only on perhaps your first LS? Even though your new LS-3 would count for a half-dozen in many guy's books. :D

I'd be going with that Option 2. Depending on how far you are on getting your money back on parts outta that van, you could be looking at anywhere from 'damn cheap' to 'free' on having a nice LS- pushing that heavy Cady.

Now a question: You talk about boxing the LCAs. Are you confident you could accomplish as much by just adding enough metal boxing and poly bushings to replicate the rigidity of some of the stout looking aftermarket brands out there? The Hotchkis and the METCO I have or had looked quite impressive. I'll need a pair for my 'new' FWB and just collecting options. And I'm not going to mount anything hellacious like an HO or HA back there, maybe just add an SS bar to the smaller existing oem bar already there. What do you have in mind for yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lower control arms

I just bought a set of lower only stock length one from" Southside Machine Performance" in Indianapolis.

They have a website and sell on ebay, but if you order form the web site they are a bit cheaper. They are selling nice lower control arms stock for our cars for $160 shipped, no tax unless you live in IN.

I got them in two days to my door. Ill post a few pics here or take a look on the website. I have one concern, but was going to call the guy back to hear his thoughts.

They look nice for the price and I was only looking for lowers with a mild sway bar, just like you, since I dont want to compete ruin the Cadillac ride.
I called the guy who makes them before I sent the money, its a small shop, but I would rather give my money to a small shop anyway.
 

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Took a quick look around on Southside Machine Performance's website but didn't see anything listed for the b/d-body. Do I need to call them directly or am I blind?
 

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Took a quick look around on Southside Machine Performance's website but didn't see anything listed for the b/d-body. Do I need to call them directly or am I blind?


If you look at the home page and click on Shop then go down to the bottom of the drop down you will see B body. Also he has a military discount.


Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Not really the bottom. Regular B/D is between all the A- and G- apps.

Kent, did you get your concern answered by the maker? Was it that the illus pic shows the holes in the SIDE of the arm, and not top and bottom where they belong? haha
 
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