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Discussion Starter #1

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Not seen those Snapon wrenches before so can't say how well they work. If the fittings are chewed up, I've just used vice grips with good results.

Another tool to check out if you've not seen them before are these....


Pretty cool tool and I like they grip all 6 sides of the fitting.
 

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BALLSS hold your Pay Pal. Those are metric wrenches. I didn't find them in SAE.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Since you're replacing the line due to that fubar'd nut, just cut the line at the fitting, and use a socket. it will come right out. BTDT, many, many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BALLSS hold your Pay Pal. Those are metric wrenches. I didn't find them in SAE.

Mark: Snowman-33
They are both SAE/Metric. The hex head compresses for either 7/16 or 11 mm for example.

Since you're replacing the line due to that fubar'd nut, just cut the line at the fitting, and use a socket. it will come right out. BTDT, many, many times.
The fitting I have "massaged" back to hex using a small file. I can cut/splice on a new section of line but prefer not to splice

My 7/16 flare wrench is to sloppy and 3/8 won't fit. 11mm does but I don't have a 11 mm flare.

There are hex jawed vice grips also made for this but access is not good for vice grip.

I need a more force=more compression tool like the Flex Force.
 

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They are both SAE/Metric. The hex head compresses for either 7/16 or 11 mm for example.
I didn't see that anywhere but if you say so. They do look to be a pretty good tool. Mark likes tools. In my best Mongo voice.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I like tools to :)

Pic of tool is crappy but it says right on the handle the SAE & Metric size.

I could buy a 11mm flare wrench but if it does not fit skin tight it will round off the nut just like the 7/16 SAE.

the more force you apply, the tighter this tool clamps

Problem with PB Blast is this fitting faces down so it is tough to get the fluid to "weep" up. It's location is also tight. Not as bad as the Impala where in the words of Bill Harper on installing the 5th brake line...."remove body, install line"...

I already replaced the soft lines up front on the Camaro. Vice Grips worked fine as there was access to get them on solid. This rear line above axle housing is a PIA. Rust is not a issue on this car. 51 year old fittings are.

Sucks to pay $65 to swap out a $15 brake hose but buying the fittings, flare tool to splice would cost something. Tough to use a flare tool in there and I really don't want a spliced brake line

Just curious if anyone used this tool before
 

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BALLSS, I can understand your frustration. How about trying to heat the the fitting, not the line fitting, but the one it's screwed into. Just enough to expand it. Then spray the PB on it. While it's still warm tap it with a hammer to help the PB creep. Getting both fitting's heated only expands them the same. It's just an idea. Hope this helps. Best of luck Bud.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BALLSS, I can understand your frustration. How about trying to heat the the fitting, not the line fitting, but the one it's screwed into. Just enough to expand it. Then spray the PB on it. While it's still warm tap it with a hammer to help the PB creep. Getting both fitting's heated only expands them the same. It's just an idea. Hope this helps. Best of luck Bud.

Mark: Snowman-33
Did exactly that.....3 times. I need a wrench that will not slip so I can apply the leverage needed. Even with such a wrench I likely need the torch while using.

The line is likely frozen to the flare as are the threads from fitting to hose so I will have to "nurse" this while taking baby steps in turning the fitting

51 year old connection is just being very hard on this one line and of course it is the line that has limited access
 

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It was just a thought. If it were me, I think I would break out the BFH and prepare to replace it all. As you have said several times, 51 year old car. Those lines may need to be retired anyway. And too, your eyes are way better than mine. All I could see was a blur on the handles. :nerd:
Good luck my Friend. You're one of the members that I look to for the straight poop on these cars.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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If it's that tight leverage isn't the issue.
Frozen lines need a "shock" to break loose.
Heat, tiny vice grip and smack it somehow with something to break loose or just cut fitting off.

You can get long fittings new and just reflare after if trying to save hard line.

You've got the axle hanging for as much room as you can get right?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It was just a thought. If it were me, I think I would break out the BFH and prepare to replace it all. As you have said several times, 51 year old car. Those lines may need to be retired anyway.
Mark: Snowman-33
Well Mark if this car was not in such great shape I would. Car is untouched underneath, no undercoat and no rust anywhere. The line itself looks fine as does the connection. It is a one piece "home run" line that runs from distribution block under MC to back end along frame rail. Car was restored by PO in terms of paint/body/interior/engine on a car that appears to have led a well pampered, garaged, western US car

There are likely repop lines available but this is one looooong line. Longest on car and I really don't want to splice it. Worst case I would cut the fitting, re-flare that end with a new flare nut. The flex line that attaches to it gives me some wiggle room but I likely would need to re-mount the bracket both hard/soft line attach to if I cut the end to re-flare it. Of course getting a flare tool in the area may prove to be a bigger issue.

the 3 factors on this is the location is hard access,the fitting is frozen and so far flare wrench and vice grips, heat and PB are not doing it. Primarily because no tool grips enough on the fitting and with the vice grips I just can't get the angle needed to apply them properly

I bent over and ordered the line tools from ebay….will see if they do the trick. The video demo shows how they clamp tighter the more force is applied and it is a 6 sided end for the fitting unlike a flare wrench

The OER 6020 6 sided vice grips are also available,,,,similar $ but I can't get vice grips in there at a perpendicular angle to correctly go "around" the fitting

this is not the 1st "specialty" tool I have purchased....ideally it works
 

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Without actually being there and seeing it I think I understand. I was just giving some of my ideas of getting it off. I DO know how something that should be a minor fix turns into a major ReDo. Bright side. You got more tools. Hope they do the trick for you. Keep us in the loop. On a side note. I got my TIG welder in yesterday and the plasma cutter is coming today. I bought another welder cart this morning. Tools, ahhhhhh!!!!!:grin2:

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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If it's that tight leverage isn't the issue.
Frozen lines need a "shock" to break loose.
Heat, tiny vice grip and smack it somehow with something to break loose or just cut fitting off.

You can get long fittings new and just reflare after if trying to save hard line.

You've got the axle hanging for as much room as you can get right?
+1 on the shock treatment - like an impact wrench does. In both directions.

Call your local Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, etc. guy. There is such a thing as extra long 11mm flare wrench and swivel flare wrench.

I would never use vice grips here because besides buggering up the external fitting it can cause an internal egg shape of the fitting in the housing.

Pics of the offending area would help to see how much access you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
+1 on the shock treatment - like an impact wrench does. In both directions.

Call your local Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, etc. guy. There is such a thing as extra long 11mm flare wrench and swivel flare wrench.

I would never use vice grips here because besides buggering up the external fitting it can cause an internal egg shape of the fitting in the housing.
The main issue is a flare wrench, crows foot wrench in either 7/16 or 11 mm is to sloppy and will just round off flare nut. "shocking" either will only cause carnage on the flare nut. I have even used vice grips on the jaws of the flare wrench to keep it from expanding but no....it still fits to lose. Thought about filing down a 10mm and test fit a super snug flare but decided to buy the flex wrench

Snap-On sells the flex wrench (their logo) but the company that makes them sells the tool under their name on ebay...for a lot less $

agree over zealous vice grip will ruin the flare nut unless you use the OER one with the 6 sided jaw for line wrench...but again getting the tool on the flare nut correctly is a issue because of space

So the $77 plan is to wait for the flex wrench to show up in a few days and try again. They don't sell just a single wrench so I have to buy the 4 wrench set. Like my Kent Moore harmonic balancer remove/install tool and RMS install tool they are seldom used but make those jobs Soooo plug & play I am hopeful this design on line wrench does the trick
 

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I now see in your OP that it is already rounded off. A proper size flare wrench on an unmolested fitting will not round off. 5 points of contact is sufficient. Let us know the outcome. Still would like to see pics.
 

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Snap off makes flare sockets which are neat but kinda sorta expensive. I saw some awhile back in SAE but I have no need. Big flat jaw vise grips work fine and you won't ding up the fitting. You will put some impressions on it. But. If its stuck just cut and replace, Faster and easier



I thnk once I put rag over my snap off flare wrenches and put a vise grip over them so i had less flex. Worked well.
 

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Not seen those Snapon wrenches before so can't say how well they work. If the fittings are chewed up, I've just used vice grips with good results.

Another tool to check out if you've not seen them before are these....


Pretty cool tool and I like they grip all 6 sides of the fitting.
Looks like an awesome idea, I’d love to hear from someone who has used one.
Looks like it would work better than the Flex Force tool...
 

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I’ve used vice grips and healthy channel locks to get rounded brake fitting loosened.
I’m sure you’ve probably already tried both of those.
File opposite sides of the rounded fitting flat so you can get an open end wrench or channel locks/vice grips that can get a better grip on the larger filed flats, instead of the rounded corners.
I’ve done that before also.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Guys appreciate the "alternate" methods suggested....did them. Not my first rodeo.

So the Flex Wrench showed up. Nice tool. Tried it with a 3/8" breaker bar and I could see even with the "more force the tighter the wrench gets"....it was slipping. Granted the fitting was not perfect but not rounded out either.

With the Flex Wrench on I was able to get a WAY solid bite on the tool with vice grips to compress it on the fitting. Still had to use the breaker bar and a 5/8" wrench to counter turn on the rubber line but it broke lose. Fitting unscrewed easily from that point. Fitting was not buggered enough to prevent a flare wrench from tightening it to new line

These Flex Wrenches will join the other tools in my box for the next "flare wrench/vice grips/torch" will not get off. YMMV
 
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