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RatSSled,

The two options suggested here differ in ,
One has been done,
One was a shoot from the hip, not been done, idea.
Take a good look at your firewall, do you see how you could rotate the motor 25-30 degrees counterclockwise?
Add to that, you would loose 30% of the park stroke.
If someone has successfully done this,,,, please,,,, lets see it.

Engine in, while ours differ in fat block vs ls,
mine was done engine in.
You would not lose anything if you modify the arm. It is a matter of mechanics. The motor will still do the same motion, the output is changed to compensate for the change of position. There is no need to change anything unless you want more clearance above the valve cover, as wiper motor clears the valve cover without modification. It is just close, and you must remove the wiper motor to remove the valve cover. Either way it seems like a good bit of work for minimal results.
 

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The parking motion is , shaft cams over in the gear moving the shaft sideways .

EDIT This motor type does not reverse into park as some others do but the sideways parking of the lever is the same.
I was envisioning the different type but with same result

If you rotate the wiper motor 30 degrees,
The parking motion will move the arm end upwards at a 30 degree angle reducing the actual sideways movement.
Where the arm is located does not change this.
Stock, the arm stops near level, then shifts sideways .
Your way, after repositioning the arm,
The arm will stop level but the parking action will move the stationary arm up at a 30 degree angle.
Because of this, the parking action will be reduced by about a 1/3.
I base this on,
If you turned the motor 90 degrees, there would be zero parking action.
30 degrees would be a third of that.

If you go and actualy do what you are proposing Fred and it works with no loss of parking function, along with adressing the shape of the firewall preventing you from rotating the motor without major modification, I will retract my statement that it will not work correctly.

I studied this all and actually tried rotating, and repositioning be I relocated my wiper motor.
Yours is currently in the stock position, right Fred?
 

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Say you try to rotated the wiper motor, look at the relationship of the left hand mounting bolt to the protrusion of the firewall above it .
How are you going to do that ??
The spacer plate you spoke of a few posts back ? Don't see that working
wiper relocate7 .jpg
wiper relocate6.jpg
 

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I have not looked at the back for any linear motion. I did not note that the arm moved in a straight line at any point, I assumed that the the arm just rotated further on the shaft, and the parking motion was just an additional rotation beyond the arc it takes to make the blades move across the windshield. I will check the motion out to see if it has linear motion. I did not have to deal with any adjustments, because mine is still in the original position.
 

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Lol.

I'm doing the Canada shuffle.... With a step to the right.
 

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If symmetry is not an issue, I guess you could rotate it a tiny bit as you move to the passenger side as the hump above the motor mounting would start to clear.
I GUESS you could maybe gain a smidge of clearance without killing the park stroke.
This is a guess , BECAUSE I HAVE NOT ROTATED MINE.
 

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How did you locate the new bolt holes, which are all on different lateral lines, so that it kept the same vertical alignment?
It looks like mine came out a little lower, or is tilted down to the left, because my left most bolt is slightly lower and into the previous access hole.

192587


How I did it (line was level)...
192588
 

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Ah ha, I know why it's slightly off level. The car is slightly off level due to the slope of the garage floor.
So the new location is slightly lower. But I can fix it when I weld the blind nuts to the back side.
 

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Yeah, I scribed arcs ,triangulating off the other holes once had the first.

If you look at the cowl inside picture, you will see a threaded flat bar going across the two passenger side bolt holes.
These gives the panel a little beef and much easyier than trying to weld a nut on the inside.

No comment on the video Fred ??
 

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Yeah, I scribed arcs ,triangulating off the other holes once had the first.

If you look at the cowl inside picture, you will see a threaded flat bar going across the two passenger side bolt holes.
These gives the panel a little beef and much easyier than trying to weld a nut on the inside.

No comment on the video Fred ??
Good idea. Although I'll likely tack weld the bar to to the body for simplicity.
 
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