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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
about 2 weeks ago there was a slow car in front of me and i grew impatient. i downshift into 1st and floor it just to make a nice pass with my stock engine. when i came to a stop the car just shut off on me and i had a very high fuel odor. i got some people saying my optispark went bad. other said my fuel regulator should get check. after i spend 130 on a brand new optispark cap and rotor i still had the same problem. this time i left it running and inspect everything and quickly notice i was leaking FUEL out the 7th exhaust manifold (possibly bend valve like i said in the earlier thread).

now this is on the driver side. i do have bad fuel odor coming out my passenger side exhaust pipe and the way i check it was putting my hand over the oil fill cap to feel for any pressure. nuthin. so im assuming this is ONLY problem at cylinder 7. im planning on swapping an LQ4 engine complete by the end of november but during the meantime how much am i lookin to spend in parts to repair cylinder 7 with me doing the labor? nuthin fancy cuz my heads are completely stock. or should i sell it and wait for the swap?
 

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going deep

id say wait for the swap most likely you would have to remove the oil pan and so on depending on what you find and removing head on side of your problem.
 

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Sounds like a lot of guesswork so far. What led to the conclusion of a bent valve? Did you do a compression check?
 

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Yeah, a lot of guessing. Pull the vacuum line off your fuel pressure regulator to make sure it's not leaking there. I had one that was dumping raw gas into the engine via the vacuum line and the engine was missing out the passenger side.

If that isn't an issue, do a compression check on at least the passenger side cylinders do see if you really do have damage. A bent valve will usually display a lot of other symptoms/noises. The rev limiter will help control the max RPM the engine will go to, but it can still rev past the point the rev limiter starts to work. Usually, though, that's well within safe operating ranges for most stock engines.

I'd just wait for the engine swap. With all that's involved with R&R a head, especially if you're not certain it's the issue, you'll probably be real close to the end of November before getting it all back together.

Check your FPR, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
make sense. fuel are injecting into the air cylinder. i check the fuel pressure regulator it works fine no leak. im having fuel escape the exhaust side so either i have a broken spring or loose valve. all i know is im definitely not getting compression from cylinder 7. im going to pull the valve cover tmw to see if it's just the spring i could replace that and cross my finger just to buy me some time.
 

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do a compression test on 7 then a leak down. If its a bent valve and you plan on a motor swap anayway, either wait or just swap the head. Probably pick up a good used head pretty cheap and its on the easier side (no accessories) used head maybe a hundred bucks, then head gasket, head bolts and intake gasket- probably do it all for around $200 in the end
 

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do a compression test on 7 then a leak down. If its a bent valve and you plan on a motor swap anayway, either wait or just swap the head. Probably pick up a good used head pretty cheap and its on the easier side (no accessories) used head maybe a hundred bucks, then head gasket, head bolts and intake gasket- probably do it all for around $200 in the end
Don't forget about the steam line on the back of the head. Out of sight, out of mind!

Chris
 

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Bent value should be easy to find. Only going to bend if it hit the piston and that is usually the result of a broken valve spring or keeper. Take off the valve cover and look. If no damage to piston or head then parts are valve spring, valve, push rod if bent, rocker arm if damaged, gaskets and fluids. Not a lot of $$.
Spend time to find the problem before throwing $$ at parts.

Pat

about 2 weeks ago there was a slow car in front of me and i grew impatient. i downshift into 1st and floor it just to make a nice pass with my stock engine. when i came to a stop the car just shut off on me and i had a very high fuel odor. i got some people saying my optispark went bad. other said my fuel regulator should get check. after i spend 130 on a brand new optispark cap and rotor i still had the same problem. this time i left it running and inspect everything and quickly notice i was leaking FUEL out the 7th exhaust manifold (possibly bend valve like i said in the earlier thread).

now this is on the driver side. i do have bad fuel odor coming out my passenger side exhaust pipe and the way i check it was putting my hand over the oil fill cap to feel for any pressure. nuthin. so im assuming this is ONLY problem at cylinder 7. im planning on swapping an LQ4 engine complete by the end of november but during the meantime how much am i lookin to spend in parts to repair cylinder 7 with me doing the labor? nuthin fancy cuz my heads are completely stock. or should i sell it and wait for the swap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
okay guys. my lq4 swap is going to be delay. i would need a whole new rotating assembly due to extreme bad bearings. so i need this lt1 working to get by and make the extra money to fund the swap.

pull the passenger valve cover out. only thing look funny to me is this odd shape crack in my "IRON" head.


couldnt pull the passenger side head off cuz the alternator is in the way. but let's work on this side first. what am i lookin at? keep in mind the car RUNS. just dump raw fuels. i have holes on the heads too. square size showing the pushrod but not seeing any valve yet. cant see cylinder 7 clearly cuz it's wayy in the back. but does this look normal to u?
 

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Did not see it mentioned but do you have a CEL on? Also you mention fuel being dumped ,, Have you checked to see if you have a injector(s) that could be dumping / leaking fuel ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that hole is right next to the pushrod at cylinder number 1. i look at other heads and it doesnt look similar to it. strong fuel smell when i pull the cover off. i wasnt home the whole afternoon and wont be in the morning eastern time. ill upload picture tomorrow. i could clearly see the pushrod pass the cylinder AND i could sorta see the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did not see it mentioned but do you have a CEL on? Also you mention fuel being dumped ,, Have you checked to see if you have a injector(s) that could be dumping / leaking fuel ?
yeah i got a CEL on. definitely not the injector. it's DRY around all injector. but i'll take a second look while the car is running. only thing i could see is leak coming from cylinder 7. i have a bad exhaust gasket back there (very common) makes it sound a bit louder in the engine bay but i didnt mind it.
 

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yeah i got a CEL on. definitely not the injector. it's DRY around all injector. but i'll take a second look while the car is running. only thing i could see is leak coming from cylinder 7. i have a bad exhaust gasket back there (very common) makes it sound a bit louder in the engine bay but i didnt mind it.
What is the CEL? May give you insight as to what the problem is.. Take the connector off of the injector and see what it meters ,resistance. If you do not have a meter just pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached (injectors not inserted into the intake but still clipped into fuel rail) turn the key to the run position and look at that injector to see if it is stuck open.
Roger
 

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That hole in the cylinder looks to be just a casting hole. Nothing to worry about there.
 

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FYI: I have a good set of factory injectors I replaced chasing a problem on mine [wasn't my problem] if you need them.

Good Luck!
 

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if u figure out what u need i got good iron heads, pushrods, rockers, with 67k on em in my attic

got some aluminum while doing a complete rebuild so shoot me a pm of what u need I am in west palm
 
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