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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wrapped up the driver's side today and wanted to mention a mistake I made that cost me close to an hour. I removed the steering intermediate shaft to gain clearance for the UCA. When detaching the front of the intermediate shaft from the steering box, I removed the bolt. Big mistake. When I went to re-install the bolt, I could not get the threads started. The pinch fitting opened up too much to catch the threads. After strugling for a while, I removed the intermediate shaft and closed the pinch fitting enough to get the threads started, but the pinch fitting ended up being a little too tight and it wouldn't fit back onto the steering box. I loosened it up a little and was finally able to get it back on. If you remove the intermediate shaft for any reason, do yourself a favor and do not remove the front bolt.

I have a question for you guys that have installed the bushings on your own with a vise: can you explain exactly how you did it? I could not set things up to be able to press the bushing into the control arm. I ended up securing the control arm and then pounding the bushing on with a large socket and hammer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The pinch bolt that holds the flex coupler to the input shaft is positioned in such a way that it must be removed to pull the intermediate shaft back. It crosses the relief in the shaft. If you only loosen it and try to pry the coupler back the bolt will run into the upper part of the splines.
Now I wasn't there but think something went very wrong with your re and re of the shaft.
I have replaced enough steering boxes in my line of work that I can't remember the number but have only seen a spread coupler when a well meaning soul cranked the steering to move a disabled car with the pinch bolt removed.
Or when a person either thought the flat lined up with the bolt and hammered the coupler on, or rammed it one spline out.
Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought the bolt passed through the relief in the splines too, but when I insterted the bolt with the shaft off the car, I could not see or feel it inside the pinch fitting. I guess I need to loosen or remove the bolt again and make sure the shaft is seated all the way forward.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bolt passes throught at 90 deg to the flat.
That is to say if you center the box so when looking straight down you are looking at the flat , the bolt will point straight down the side.



Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gerry,

Thanks for setting me straight on this. I actually did have everything lined up right (flat on the flat and bolt in the right place), but you were definitely right that the bolt must be removed.

I removed the bolt and pushed the shaft forward and it slid right up to the edge of the box. Replaced and tightened the bolt. Now I know for certain that I have it right.

Again, thank you very much for clarifying that.

So, the bottom line here is that my original post was completely wrong - that bolt must be removed to remove and replace the shaft.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used a bench vise to remove my old upper control arm bushings but have not installed the new ones yet.
I used a three inch long piece of exhaust pipe for the space that the bushing would be pushed into and used a large heavy washer on the back side of the bushing for the vice to push against.
Three of them came out fairly easy, but one started to bend the piece of exhaust pipe so I ended up cutting the outer shell with a jigsaw just enough to cave in the shell but not let the blade hit the control arm.

Wait a minute! you said you only removed the steering shaft to gain better access to the upper control arms!!
Your joking right? Please tell my your joking! I didn't just spend the last few months removing everything off my frame just to change the Control arm bushings. :eek: :(


Thats the last time I listen to that import driven, APC plastic pushing kid at the parts store. I don't care if he is " in the zone " :mad:

Before

After



Just kidding, :D ;)
Doing a frame off to rebuild a totaled 95.
 
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