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Discussion Starter #1
While searching again I found these. https://southsidemachineperformance.com/shop?olsPage=products/ssm-stage-1-front-end-kit-gm-b-body-1978-1996 Has anyone used this set-up? If so what are your experiences? Anyone have some input/thoughts about this set? I already have the MOOG Problem Solver BJs but I'm going to buy new shafts, $140+. This would alleviate the hassle of rebuilding the uppers. I finally got the lower bushings out and it's not as easy as the dude on You Tube shows it to be. (He talks as if he were an army instructor. I know because I was one) Thanks all.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I just installed a set of Mevotech uppers. The cross shafts, bushings and arms were fine, ball joints were a tad on the spindly side compared to Moog but the stock ones usually went 100k before getting worn, and the Mevotech ones are greaseable so I'm not worried about it. Upper balljoints aren't under the stress that lower balljoints are IMHO either. BTW Do NOT use the '95 FSM spec of 125 ftbs of torque for the upper ball joints; 65-70 is all you should need.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just installed a set of Mevotech uppers. The cross shafts, bushings and arms were fine, ball joints were a tad on the spindly side compared to Moog but the stock ones usually went 100k before getting worn, and the Mevotech ones are greaseable so I'm not worried about it. Upper balljoints aren't under the stress that lower balljoints are IMHO either. BTW Do NOT use the '95 FSM spec of 125 ftbs of torque for the upper ball joints; 65-70 is all you should need.
Sherlock: I wouldn't have much trouble running those control arms. The link I gave shows tubular uppers with longer ball joints. The advertising hype states that taller BJs increase handling. My $140 quote was from O'Reilly for the shafts alone. I see RA has them for about half. MOOG & ACD are both reasonably priced complete control arms too. As I said I have the problem solver ball joints already but would be willing to change up if there is an improvement with the ones from Southside. Thanks for the torque info. BTW: Souhtside gives military discount too.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I also went with the inexpensive Mevotech from Rockauto with new cross shaft
and ball joint. only $45 each.

SouthSideMachine looks good but overkill.

Nab
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nab, thanks Bud. It may be just that (overkill). And too, I must be getting old. I looked a bit more and I had asked about these before. Fix Until Broke had a reply. I was really hoping someone had experience running these. Geesh I was coming home from Home Depot and saw a woman standing at the bus stop. Got closer and it was a fire hydrant. :nerd: This old stuff is tuff. New question here though. There are 2 different types of upper shaft. I looked to see the advantage of the straight ones. More positive camber. But do I want that? Thanks again,

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I looked at the taller ball joints they offer; they are nice, but.... if you were racing or doing something that absolutely required top tier components, that's one thing. But if it's just a street car, just roll with the stock setup. GM engineered the stock steering the way they did for a reason; taller ball joints give you a turning performance advantage with the trade-off of the front end being more grippy at the limit, which would cause a typical driver to be more likely to get the car sideways and out of control.
 

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I just rebuilt my factory arms since it was much cheaper than any complete arms. Simple job with an air hammer a BFH and a block of wood. Used all MOOG PS parts and every last one of them was USA made which surprised me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I sure appreciate all the replies so far. As of now, since I have the parts, plan on rebuilding my originals. The driver's side has a wallowed out sway bar link hole but I think I can fix that. Once I get them all cleaned up and the welding done I can blast them and then powder coat them. Sinister, I was looking the other day and all of my MOOG parts are Made in the USA too = Happy Feet.:surprise:

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I looked at the taller ball joints they offer; they are nice, but.... if you were racing or doing something that absolutely required top tier components, that's one thing. But if it's just a street car, just roll with the stock setup. GM engineered the stock steering the way they did for a reason; taller ball joints give you a turning performance advantage with the trade-off of the front end being more grippy at the limit, which would cause a typical driver to be more likely to get the car sideways and out of control.
You say that like it's a bad thing

And just remember, it was GM Engineering that gave us the optispark
 

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You say that like it's a bad thing
Most drivers aren't as good as they think they are. Early on I had to learn the hard way that you can only control oversteer until you hit the steering stops. A new front clip later...

And just remember, it was GM Engineering that gave us the optispark
I'd still run an optispark over a standard SBC distributor any day of the week. Far more accurate, simple to diagnose and easy to maintain. Think of it like a scuba diver: just keep it waterproof and breathing properly and it's fine.
 

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If you’re going that far, consider what SC&C has to offer. I figured if I’m spending ANY money, I want it to count. I needed bushings (originals are 25 years and 150K old...it’s time), and I wanted to correct alignment deficiencies. With the adjustable arms from SC&C (really SPC arms, but with Mark’s technical support) you can optimize the camber curve (with 0.50” taller Howe ball joints), and be able to independently adjust caster and camber without shims.

I’ve yet to install them so perhaps it was cash tossed in the wind with no appreciable increase in performance. Only one way to find out; install forthcoming. If all goes well, I’m going back to him to fix the atrocity that is the front suspension design on my 1st gen F-body.
 
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