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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As you probably know, the stock injectors are prone to failure from ethanol exposure. But so are many of the common LT1 swap injectors. And try finding the correct short pulse adders and voltage offsets to make these work properly at low pulsewidths.

I have a few sets of much newer (2016 Model Year) injectors available:
  • 30 years newer design.
  • Ethanol proof, E85 friendly.
  • Vastly improved spray pattern.
  • Better starting, idling and part throttle drivability.
  • Up to 10% better fuel consumption than your stockers.
  • 36lb/hr flow rate (stock is 24). Can support 475hp.
  • Permanently gets rid of annoying intermittent misfires at idle due to stock injectors gradually failing, and they WILL fail eventually.
  • Comes with FULL characterization data specifically for LT1 PCMs (voltage offsets and short pulse adders; most tuners just change flow rate and drivability suffers).
  • Requires reprogramming your PCM. If you email me your tune file, I can update the injector data. You can do upload/download easily for the '94-95s yourself with a programming cable and flashHack, or I can do a PCM exchange. For 96s, you can upload/download via TunerCat OBD2 or JET DST but I cannot do '96 PCM exchanges at this time.
  • Injectors come equipped ready to drop in with all necessary adapters. Wiring harness adapters will likely not clear GM corvette fuel rail covers.
  • Only $195 shipped - cheaper than new injectors that don't have characterization data, same price as trying to have your stockers refurbished. Trust me I'm not getting rich off of this. I refused to spend $1000 for Injector Dynamics' injectors so I spent a lot of time digging for an alternative solution. You get to benefit from the hard work.
PM me for Paypal info. My feedback is here.
 

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What kind of injectors are they?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Enough for you Brian. :cool:

You guys crack me up with these questions.
 

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PM sent (I think?) I guess they are called "Discussions" now?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To the top. Still have a few more sets available.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not clairvoyant enough to know the spray pattern quality of your injectors. As you can probably surmise, complete atomization is key to optimal fuel consumption. If you daily drive your car and use top tier gasoline, you're probably doing about as good as can be expected on the stock injectors. Certainly though, a lot has improved in fuel injector design in 30 years.

The cars that I personally put them in and datalogged before and after saw a pretty noticeable reduction in fuel trims, even when I adjust the data for the higher fuel pressure that most stock LT1 regulators are allowing nowadays. I am currently working with several that have installed them already to optimize their tuning and should have more numerical results here in the near future. I'm pretty OCD on causality, so I don't want to say for certain unless I can pinpoint it. One car with a RAISS intake but stock tune is seeing 7-15% fueling reduction across the board, but I'm inclined to blame that on the intake, not take credit with the injectors. ANY change to the intake setup has a pretty drastic effect on MAF airflow measurement.

I would be very interested in someone who has already optimized their existing combination's fuel trims dropping in a set, changing only the injectors and injector data, and seeing what happens to the fuel trims. I had someone attempting to do that now, but they strongly believe the optispark has a problem, so that invalidates the data.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Injectors are going out today to all that ordered them this week (I typically ship on Fridays due to my work schedule).

Here's installation instructions:
  1. Depressurize the fuel system: Start the car, disconnect the fuel pump harness at the rear, let the car run until it dies. If it won't die, pop the throttle and that will suck the rest of the fuel out.
  2. Shut the ignition off. Ideally, disconnect the battery for fire safety reasons.
  3. Blow out or clean out all the injector holes of debris.
  4. Spray WD40 at the base of each injector to help the old o-rings out.
  5. Remove the Home Plate resonator (if installed), then the four fuel rail bolts.
  6. Optional: remove the fuel lines (if you have the 5/16 and 3/8 disconnect tools).
  7. Lift up and gently wiggle the fuel rail in a circular motion to remove the rail and injectors from intake manifold.
  8. Clean intake manifold injector bores carefully to prevent debris from falling in when you put the new injectors in.
  9. Remove each old injector by rocking back and forth like a swing set. Discard old metal clips (they were for factory assembly ease only). Do be aware that fuel will likely dump out, so DON'T do this on a hot motor. Have paper towels handy.
  10. Put WD40 or motor oil on new injector o-rings (top and bottom). I prefer WD40 because it's temporary.
  11. Insert new injectors into fuel rail.
  12. Insert rail and injectors onto intake manifold. A circular wiggling motion helps to seat them. The white stops should on at or just slightly above the intake manifold.
  13. Reinstall fuel rail bolts.
  14. Install wiring harness adapters.
  15. Connect vehicle wiring harness to injectors.
  16. Reconnect fuel lines if you disconnected them.
  17. Install home plate resonator.
  18. Reconnect battery, make sure it's fully charged or on a charger.
  19. Reconnect fuel pump harness.
  20. Write new BIN file to PCM using WinFlash (part of TunerCat) or FlashHack (preferred). Ignition on, key off.
  21. Cycle the key 4 times without starting the car to build fuel pressure.
  22. Start the car and check for any fuel leaks at the injectors, just to be safe.
 
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