[storm9c1]

You say "upgrade". What is the nature of your "upgrade" plans?
Just injectors?
What else is planned?
Do you have a means to tune?

I've experimented with non-stock injectors (but not the TRE specifically).
Clicking on the "Details" tab, I see them listed for Ford.

I will say I've tried similar Ford/Bosch 24lbs injectors (ridiculously cheaper than stock GM ones) and while the car ran and drove fine, the fuel trims were out of range. Getting them in range across the board meant the hassle of fuel table recurves, and the end result was no real performance gain. LOL. It was just a waste of time.

Not saying the TRE will do the same thing. Never tried them. YMMV. Unless someone else here says something different, perhaps get them and tell us how it went. It would be lovely to find a set of cheap+new injectors that are plug-n-play.

There's lots of guys who claim different injectors work, usually because they want to sell them to you. Until you send them back, saying that the BLMs were off. And their excuse is usually "never had that complaint before."

I only mention this anecdotally. I am not a professional tuner. I just dabble. Maybe someone else would have the magic touch with any injectors they want. The lesson here is that you may need to have tuning equipment to swap injectors. At the very least you need a way to monitor Long and Short term trims to make sure everything is happy after the swap. The car will run... but if you are stuck on one side or another of the BLMs, that's no bueno. You'll need a tune.

In my experience, the only injectors that work on a B-Body LT1 -- direct swap with no tune -- are the stock GM injectors that belong on the car. That's how I learned it was better to send them out and have them cleaned and tested, rather than playing games with non-stock injectors. My experience also taught me that there's no such thing as an "upgrade" or performance gain by swapping injectors alone. The stock injectors are quite capable of supporting additional mods until you get to forced induction.

 

[Marky Dissod]

In practice, any cheap & new injector set that is CLOSE to plug&play, consistently performs within 5% of OE injectors.
That means that the Long Term Fuel Trims would eventually settle and land between 121 & 134.
Tuning for such injectors is not strictly REQUIRED.
That said, even OE replacement injectors might be off by a bit ... hopefully, off by less than 5%.
For best results, however, tuning is always recommended.

Oh wait, forgot something:
One of the reasons why every LT1 (& LT4 & L99) will need new injectors, is E10.
OE LT1 injectors may wear out more quickly due to exposure to E10.
If the OE injectors can have their E10 susceptibility corrected (the gov't wants to make E15 mandatory soon), then they'll continue to be a decent replacement option.
Otherwise, my educated guess for desirable replacement injectors would be L9H / L94.
It goes without saying that best results always require tuning adjustment.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Two interesting things come to mind:

1. Using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to raise reference pressure from 3bar / 43psi to 4bar / 58psi
Even prior to tuning, raising reference fuel pressure to 4bar / 58psi improves OE injector performance, by which I mean they spray better, which leads to drivability improvements.
Even before updating the injector constant to 28.6, this underappreciated mod might even pay for itself if the driver drives conservatively often enough.

2. Every injector is an individual, even after a good thorough cleaning, more info is needed for best results
In an ideal world, each injector with a given part number is perfectly identical and interchangeable with every other one.
In reality, they perform closely, but not identically to each other, and the PCM / ECM accounts for this.
To make a long story short, for V engines, installing any injector into any cylinder randomly is NOT optimal.
Again, even prior to tuning, each injector should come with its post-cleaning performance characterized.
PCMs and ECMs still think in terms of Left & Right banks.
With enough info about each injector's test performance, you can decide which injector goes into which cylinder.
At the very least, the injectors should be grouped 'Left' & 'Right', so the left & right banks perform as similarly as possible.
Installing the injectors thoughtfully improves drivability and performance, even before tuning.
(Injectors that perform within 2% of each other definitely require less tuning.)

 

[roy williams]

Has anyone used these injectors TRE 24lb Wide Body Bosch Style Fuel Injectors Ford Mustang 4.6L 5.0L Chevy Camaro Corvette LT1 LT4 LS1 BMW V8 250cc - TREperformance.com ? I still have the stock injectors and looking to upgrade.

NOW in todays world the injectors are 1994-1996 Impala NO INJECTORS ... The injectors are a modified , new injectors ..
the gasoline is 10% alcohol .. of the injectors then its damaged .. my marvel mystery oil of the gas tank 2-3 oz full the tank ....my injectors are great .

 

[storm9c1]

Thanks Marky.

I wish I could explain why I had trouble. Logic dictates that all 24lbs injectors are the same. I gave the injectors lots of time to settle down. And even played some "shell games" with them, swapping them around. I always had both banks pretty even. Just wasn't able to find the happy 128 even after weeks of driving.

Again my experience is anecdotal. It was one car. One person.

My advice/lesson is just to watch your BLMs.

I'm glad to hear there's hope for these cheap injectors. So yeah, I encourage others to try them and see what they think. Just have the scan tool ready and post your results.

I used to worry about the E10 thing, but since I daily drive and rotate my fleet of B-Bodies, and have for 29 years with stock injectors, I'm not convinced it's the end-of-world scenario some keep saying. I literally haven't had a single injector fail to the point of trash. I get a few underperforming, I send them out, they come back fine. Repeat every 8-10 years. I have enough spares at this point if one does fail.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Logic dictates that all 24lbs injectors are the same.

Unless specifically referring to LT1 24lb / hr injectors, no, this statement is not automatically true.
Two 24lb / hr LT1 injectors may be 'close enough', but most likely NEVER identical.

Just wasn't able to find the happy 128 even after weeks of driving.

Injector-to-injector variance is only one of a few reasons why 128 is so elusive.
Since LT1 operating systems were spec'd designed and written prior to E10, that's another reason.
122 - 134 should be easily achievable (although 122 is preferable to 134).

E10 (or E15) is not the end of the world.
Just saying that injectors that were not designed for E10 should be rebuilt with E10 in mind if possible.

My advice / lesson is just to watch your BLMs.

No matter what, this is great advice.

 

[storm9c1]

Injector-to-injector variance is only one of a few reasons why 128 is so elusive.
Since LT1 operating systems were spec'd designed and written prior to E10, that's another reason.
122 - 134 should be easily achievable (although 122 is preferable to 134).

Interestingly the stock injectors (not made for E10!) kept my engine closest to 128 than any of the other new injectors (modern, supposedly made for E10) I tried. That's why I am not sold.

If E10 kept my stock injectors out of range, then I would just accept that as baseline. This is not the case. Sure, I'm never at 128 all the time. Who is? But it stays close, +/- 2. The new injectors were more like +/-5. I don't remember which direction. I want to say high. I didn't document it. Sorry.

 

[Marky Dissod]

For 325 peak horses or less, then OE injectors are all you need, and GM already tuned for them.
(Although GM's tune can still be refined, it calls for TunerPro $EEhack and experimentation.)
For those who want more than 325, some GM injectors idle better, and make more power, than LT4s.
Unfortunately they won't work that well without tuning.