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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
95 Impala SS, 383 Stroker. When I start the in the morning its fine but, when i turn the ac on and my music, the fuel pump fuse under the hood keeps blowing and the car dies. A lot of people keep telling me that its the wires that the fuel pump is hook up to. maybe they are melted. Whats going on and why is does it keeps dieing?
 

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A lot of people keep telling me that its the wires that the fuel pump is hook up to. maybe they are melted.
Have you looked at the wiring as suggested
 

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You need to check the wiring going to the fuel pump in the gas tank, it's a common problem for them to overheat and melt the insulation.
 

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since it has a 383, was the fuel pump upgraded at anytime with a 255 one or anything? hi output aftermarket pumps draw more amps and blows the fuse, in which case heavier wiring needs to be run
 

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Replace the stock wiring harness going to the fuel pump with heavier gauge wire, front to back complete. If you are not comfortable doing this sort of work then most performance shops that do installations can do it for you.
 

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RaceTronix makes a complete plug-and-play replacement wire harness kit for the SS:

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-010&eq=&Tp=

It runs from the alternator back to the harness plug for the fuel pump in the back, between the tank and the rear bumper. Highly recommended. While you're back there, though, You really should drop the fuel tank and inspect the interconnect into the tank (common place for the wiring to burn), and the fuel pump inside (another common place for the wiring to burn).

Don't forget to check other things, like the power lug at the under-hood fuse box, the positive and negative battery cable connections, at the battery, and the fuel pump ground in the trunk. Since you indicate that you are popping the fuse after you turn other accessories on, that would indicate a possible weakness in the car's electrical system, particularly a bad ground.

You may also want to have the alternator tested for proper output. As the voltage drops, your amperage will go up to maintain the same current, which will overheat and pop fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@ Gene Beaird

I just replaced the hole fuel sending unit and pump and it still blows the fuel pump fuse under the hood. Now that you said something about the altenator, when i start my car and the my system on, my battery volts drop. It cant be the battery cause its a brand new Optima battery. Even when i let me windows down, the battery volts drop. What is going on?
 

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corrosion on the battery terminals at the battery and nice and tight? and at alternator wire nice and tight?
ground nice and tight by the battery and one going to engine block? and for that matter the two grounds in the trunk as well?

I DEF recommend gary's upgrade battery harness too!

and as said earlier the wiring itself at the pump good? And the racetronix fuel pump wiring upgrade kit is nice too!
 

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It cant be the battery cause its a brand new Optima battery. Even when i let me windows down, the battery volts drop. What is going on?

Famous last words.....LOL, Check your voltage at the battery with the car off, then check the Alt output with it running. Your gauge is going to move when you use juice....it's suppose to otherwise there would be no sense in having it.
 

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I just replaced the hole fuel sending unit and pump and it still blows the fuel pump fuse under the hood. Now that you said something about the altenator, when i start my car and the my system on, my battery volts drop. It cant be the battery cause its a brand new Optima battery. Even when i let me windows down, the battery volts drop. What is going on?
What Gregg-O said. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good. And at idle, any time you start loading the electrical system up, your voltage can go down. The charging system just needs to be able to recover when you're going down the road and the engine RPM is up, off idle.

As Gregg-O suggested, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be around 12.5-13.5 volts. With the engine running, the voltage out of the alternator should be in the range of 12.5-14 volts (lower numbers with the battery charged and all accessories off, higher numbers right after startup, and/or with a/c and stuff running).

And yes, double-check EACH end of BOTH battery cables. Bad or corroded connections on either can cause all sorts of weird problems. I once had a 77 Trans Am, that if I so much as loosened either cable for any reason, I'd have to remove the cable, clean both the cable end and the battery terminal before reconnecting them. If I failed to do that, the car would fail to start, 100% of the time.
 

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IIRC it's on the drivers side trunk hinge, I think there are a couple of wire's there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@gregg-o

A Lot Of People Are Telling Me To Go With The Racetronix Upgraded Fuel Pump Kit. Im Actually On The Wbsite Right Now. Which Should I Go With? Either The Blt1 Fuel Pump Wiriing Harness Or The Fuel Pump Wiring Harness Xl? On Is 50 Bucks And The Other Is 52. Which One Will You Prefer?
 

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2 things that battery is junk buy a diffrent brand 2 check the pigtail in the trunck left side its also is fo the tailights and check the other pigtail inder the gas tank
 

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96 LT1. thanks
I see you bumped a really old thread. In the future, it's best to just make a new thread.

But to answer your question, the ground is located inside the trunk, on the driver side trunk hinge support. There will be a black wire bolted to it.
 

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I see you bumped a really old thread. In the future, it's best to just make a new thread.

But to answer your question, the ground is located inside the trunk, on the driver side trunk hinge support. There will be a black wire bolted to it.
Yep and Gregg-O already answered that question in Post 14. I understand people can miss things....but that was right there.

He did post up another thread and we'll see if that helps him find his issue. I gave him some things to look for.
 

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I am having a similar problem. My fuel pump fuse blows intermittently. Most often it seems to do it at idle when warmed up. The difference between my and most peoples problem is I have already replaced the sending unit, in tank harness and cleaned the ground connection.

I used the Spectra replacement sending unit and upgraded the ground wire on the sending unit (an odd Spectra specific small ground wire). The pump is a fairly new AC Delco.

What strikes me as a possibility is the oil pressure sending unit is tied into the same circuit.
 
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