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In an effort to rebuild the Forum post crash, here is my contribution. A step by step how to remove and re-place a fuel pump. The maintenance was performed on a 1996 Caprice wagon. Basically all of the B/D tanks mount the same, just different filler neck and ventline location.

First off you'll want to raise the rear of the vehicle a good amount. The rear wheels of the Wagon were about 3" off the ground, this was just enough for me to use my transmission jack to keep the tank mounted on it and slide it out. You're results may vary. Safety note: chock the front wheels or put something in front to keep the car from rolling foward.

Here is the filler neck and vent line connection. There two hose clamps on the filler neck, and one on the vent line. Loosen both on the filler neck so you twist the rubber hose to help free it off the tank mount. When the tank mount end comes loose, tighten back up the other end.


These are the tank strap mount bolts, They are 13mm and a pain to get back in place. Loosen and remove the nut, but leave the bolts in place for now. Take the cross stap nut off and push the tank strap out of the way.



Now position a floor jack or transmission jack underneath the tank to support it. I used a floorjack with a peice of wood cut to fit in between the tank straps to help balance it. Put some pressure on the tank to take the load off the bolts for the straps. The bolts should come out with little effort.


Lower the tank a little bit and slide the jack towards the rear as you lower to keep the tank balanced. Remove the hose connection at the filler neck and cover up the port to prevent a fuel leak. I used two ziploc bags and safety wire. Worked pretty good, the tank tipped over and didnt get much of leak.


Now get under the car and disconnect the the retainer for the fuel suppy/return and evap lines. Its directly above the rear end.


Now I tried to cheat but it didnt work out, I tried to remove the fuelpump and sender assembly without fully dropping the tank. Don't bother you'll waste your time.


To be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool, I have a cheap Lisle set I bought from Sears. You need these tools!


With the tank lowerd a bit you have easier acess to the fuel suppy and return lines. Move the rubber boot out the way and you'll see the QD. Use the disconnect tools. Select the appropiatly sized one and with the sleve facing up into the connection push it in. You might have to puch the line a little to get it in. It should slide in and then pull the lines apart. If its taking alot of effort, stop your no fully ***-engauging the QD.


Now you're ready to drop the tank and pull it out so you can work on it. Dont forget to diconnect the wiring harness from the retainers on the body. Once the tank is out you should clean the area above it before removing the retianing ring for the fuelpump and sender assembly. The retainer is held in place with Six 10mm nuts. Pull out the fuelpump and sender assembly.


Remove the wiring and Take the cap off of the fuelpump housing, there a few tabs. Be carefull when pulling out the purple wire, it has a tight retainer and you wouldnt want to break the sender assembly. I would strongly suggest you install a new in tank harness. Compare the new one to the old one and make sure the wres are in the proper terminal location.


Slide new fuel pump into housing and reconnect the wires. Install a new strainer to keep your warranty valid.


Use the new O-ring that comes with the fuelpump and install the sender and pump assembly. Tighten the nuts in a cross over pattern. I'm not sure what the spec is but they were pretty loose when I removed them, I'd say 40" lbs. Put the tank on the jack and get it close to mounted. Connect the supply, evap and return lines and wiring harness. Time to perform an operational check. Underhood, have your fuel pressure gauge connected and some wire or terminal clips. The fuelpump "jumper" alows you energize the fuelpump by yourself from under the hood. Connect a lead to the battery + positive terminal and another to the fuelpump "jumper".


The gauge should read 45psi or better. Mine read close to fifty.

Now for the fun part, remounting the tank. The less difficult was is to completely remove the drives side strap and cross strap. Its held on with th 15mm bolt. You will need a ;ong extension or two. Jack the tank up and get the passenger side strap bolted in. Now you will have to fight the fillerneck hose back on, feel free to beat and kick the tank into submission. Use a set of tapered punches to help align the tank strap and mount holes. Loosely mount the driver's side foward tank strp mount, this will help you install the rear bolt a little easier. When all you hardware is loosely installed, then go ahead and tighten them all up.

Let me know if I missed anything, I've had my tank in and out 2 tims in the past two days.
 

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im glad i HELP the right person! it feel good to help someone and in return they make a thread like this that will help everybody else in the future!

just to make the job cheaper i suggest this very simple and very cheap tool. it works very well and fit like a glove.


same part number and its a 3/8. available at autozone/advance auto parts. im sure other stores have them but im 100% sure these 2 stores i mention has them. i bought mine there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
im glad i HELP the right person! it feel good to help someone and in return they make a thread like this that will help everybody else in the future!
Yeah, that damm wiring harness did me in. The original one looked ok in my opinion, and even worked for a minute or two... Thanks for the insight.
 

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Just a suggestion but, BEFORE you remove any of the nuts on the ring that holds the sender unit/fuel pump in the tank, Take a soft brush and loosen all the dirt and debris that collects on the top of the mounting ring and surrounding area's, then either wipe it away or use a air nozzle and blow it all off. This keeps and dirt or debris from accidently falling into the fuel tank when you remove the sender unit from the tank. Also, BEFORE you start this project, Loosen the gas cap to relieve any pressure that's in the tank.
 

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Thanks for the nice write up. I'm getting ready to drop my tank soon. Is there a good fuel pump I should go with? The one that's gone bad is less then 2 years old, don't want to do this more then once.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the nice write up. I'm getting ready to drop my tank soon. Is there a good fuel pump I should go with? The one that's gone bad is less then 2 years old, don't want to do this more then once.
The pump I installed was an Airtex unit from Autozone. It was the only one available to me the day I needed it. From what I've read on the Forum, the Walbro is what most people use.

I've had an airtex fuel pump installed in my 84 Cadillac for about 3 years now. Still kickin.
 

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Did you notice any play when the new autozone fuel pump was installed in sending unit ?
It moved up and down in there a good half to inch travel?

Did you use any of the parts in that bag it came with?
 

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Great write up, I just replaced my fuel sender and pump today (msg)

After running out of gas twice, I finally realized my fuel sender was messed up. I ended up replacing the pump too while I was in there. I knew I had to replace it eventually. I ended up using a Carter pucmp
 

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Delphi was the stock pump in my 96, but I replaced it today without issue with an AC/Delco pump. My stock pump had some serious buildup of something like calcium around the terminals. I assume it must be something with the gas.
 
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Great post, thank you for the detailed pics. I just bought a 96 Fleetwood and the fuel pump went out the day after :mad:. I have never dropped a tank and I was stumped on how to disconnect those fuel lines. I did buy that plastic tool set but it wasn't working for me, so I thought maybe I got the wrong tool. I realized it was time to call it a day when I was angrily yanking at things while cussing. I might have bent the fuel line that goes down into the sender unit. Can I just bend it back?
 

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Great Post & Pic's. As you mentioned, this was a Wagon.

On the sedan (Imp) I find it easier to just lower the rear license plate (like you're filling the tank) and un-screw the two bolts holding the filler neck to the rear of the car. That way the tank stays capped while you lower/raise it.

I also think it's MUCH easier to leave the (2) REAR cross-strap hanger bolts alone and drop the tank by using the (2) bolts at the FRONT of the straps (I think they are 15MM), even if you have to remove the 'rock shields' (a couple of small sheet-metal screws) to get to the front bolts. It's a lot easier to push the front bolts, straps and tank straight up and tighten the bolts than to get the rear two threaded thru the frame while wrestling with the tank (there is no 'adjustment' for the rear bolts). Using the front bolts lets the tank 'hinge down' on bolts that pass thru the rear of the straps, then slide the tank forward on the floor, lift the straps up out of the way for a moment while you slide the tank out under the rear of the car. I think this also gives you a bit better access to the fuel line connections (which face the front of the tank). Reverse this to install the tank.

$0.02
 

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with no disregard to the original poster, great pics and descrip. just gotta say thx to fooser for weighing-in.

Great Post & Pic's. As you mentioned, this was a Wagon.

On the sedan (Imp) I find it easier to just lower the rear license plate (like you're filling the tank) and un-screw the two bolts holding the filler neck to the rear of the car. That way the tank stays capped while you lower/raise it.

I also think it's MUCH easier to leave the (2) REAR cross-strap hanger bolts alone and drop the tank by using the (2) bolts at the FRONT of the straps (I think they are 15MM), even if you have to remove the 'rock shields' (a couple of small sheet-metal screws) to get to the front bolts. It's a lot easier to push the front bolts, straps and tank straight up and tighten the bolts than to get the rear two threaded thru the frame while wrestling with the tank (there is no 'adjustment' for the rear bolts). Using the front bolts lets the tank 'hinge down' on bolts that pass thru the rear of the straps, then slide the tank forward on the floor, lift the straps up out of the way for a moment while you slide the tank out under the rear of the car. I think this also gives you a bit better access to the fuel line connections (which face the front of the tank). Reverse this to install the tank.

$0.02
 

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I bought a new spectre fuel sending unit and it has the white clips on the ends of the hardline hoses the type you use 2 fingers to push in to release. That will not match up with the hoses on the car right? What can i do?
 

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Great Post & Pic's. As you mentioned, this was a Wagon.

On the sedan (Imp) I find it easier to just lower the rear license plate (like you're filling the tank) and un-screw the two bolts holding the filler neck to the rear of the car. That way the tank stays capped while you lower/raise it.

I also think it's MUCH easier to leave the (2) REAR cross-strap hanger bolts alone and drop the tank by using the (2) bolts at the FRONT of the straps (I think they are 15MM), even if you have to remove the 'rock shields' (a couple of small sheet-metal screws) to get to the front bolts. It's a lot easier to push the front bolts, straps and tank straight up and tighten the bolts than to get the rear two threaded thru the frame while wrestling with the tank (there is no 'adjustment' for the rear bolts). Using the front bolts lets the tank 'hinge down' on bolts that pass thru the rear of the straps, then slide the tank forward on the floor, lift the straps up out of the way for a moment while you slide the tank out under the rear of the car. I think this also gives you a bit better access to the fuel line connections (which face the front of the tank). Reverse this to install the tank.

$0.02
Very nice write up with pics too. X2 on what Fooser said. I've had my tank out of the car (unfortunately) many times and this is always how I did it. It just seemed easier to let the strap swing down and pretty sure this is what the Haynes manual mentions. But either way works fine and just a preference I guess but the key is to get the tank out of the car and on the ground.

Another thing to consider if you do this, take a GOOD look at your sending unit harness. This one "bit me in the rear" and left me stranded 500 miles from home weeks after a FP replacement. Only with the help of good strangers did it not cost me an arm and a leg while on vacation. I had a bad ground wire which made it appear like the pump was bad. There is a very nice writeup here somewhere on how to fix up those connections to help prevent issues.
 
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