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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am back to trying to diagnose a problem I have had a for a while...

Fuse #6 (15 amp) keeps blowing and taking out my rear turn signals.
(Fuse #35 (i think..) also is blowing taking out my interior lights)

Over the weekend, I put a new 15 amp fuse in #6 and the turn signals started blinking. When I put the car into drive, it blew.

My guess is that the gear selector switch is grounding out or something, sound right?

The #6 and #35 seem to go out about the same time and when I put a new fuse in 35 it immediately blows. Related?

What do you think, a shared ground?
The gear selector switch?

Thanks !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
no suggestions!?

Last night I spent est 4 hrs replacing the turn signal switch and it didnt help. After that I played around and found out that the fuse blows only when then car is put into Reverse. I checked the bulbs in the rear, I unplugged the 5 harnesses that are behind the rear compartment that power the tailgate and both rear tail lights assemblies and the fuse still blows when put in reverse. I checked the two rear grounds and are tight.

In fact, if I pull the fuse, put the car into drive or neutral and put the fuse back in, I can drive with turn signals, until...

... I put it into neutral then the #6 fuse blows.

ANY ideas?!?!
-Brent
 

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It could be a worn wire insulator in the steering column or the R/N switch (may be part of another switch). The R/N switch also lights your backup lights. The circuits may be different wires, but on the same fuse. If you take the bulbs out, do the fuses still blow? If so, it is the switch or wiring. Try disconnecting the brake light/reverse light wiring from the steering column switch to narrow your search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, the fuse still blows if the backup lights are taken out.

Can you assist me in finding the "brake light/reverse light wiring" or the R/N Switch?
 

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Cornering lamp switch connector C211 (3 cavities) is located on the bottom of the steering column. It is the connector toward the front of the car. You may have to remove the turn/hazard switch connector C210 (11 cavities) to get it off.

To check the column wires, you have to remove the translucent plastic cover on the bottom of the steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fred - Thanks, I'll have to try and poke around a little tonight (when it stops raining cats and dogs).

I think I'll swing by the store and pick up a couple new flashers and a Neutral Safety Switch since they are cheap and can swap them out while down there.

I have been putting the #6 fuse in after going into Neutral or Drive and having turn signals during freeway traffic driving, but I did notice that right before the fuse blows going from Neutral into/through Reverse, the locks unlock, but if I am coming from the other direction (from Park into/through Reverse) the fuse blows without doing anything to the locks.

Do you think it has anything to do with it?

What a PITA this is!!! :(

(after the Issue with Fuse #6, I'll then have to figure out why the HECK Fuse #35 blows all the time?!)

-Brent
 

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The shift linkage may be pinching two wires together when you move it in one direction, and not the other. It could also be a damaged switch making a connection as it moves in one direction and not the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I switched the Neutral Safety Switch out and the old one is still good (I opened it up) and neither of the switches keep the fuse from blowing. Here is what I did find out, IF I do NOT install the switch on the column, but have it plugged in, I do not have reverse lights (which I didn't have anyway since R was blowing the fuse), but I do have turn signals and the fuse doesn't blow.

I tested this by leaving the switch plugged in, but not hooked up the column and then moved the plastic "finger" to the "R" position and the fuse blew.

So, some electrical current while in reverse (in the wiring, ground, another accessory, ?!) from the switch back to the backup lights (??) is blowing the fuse.

This is truly a PITA just replacing random parts.

Any ideas?
 

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You have a legitimate short (as opposed to an open, which most people say is ia short when something does not work). You have a ground that is not supposed to be a ground. Can you disconnect the back-up lights from the circuit? Did you test the back-up light sockets for internal shorting, or a pinched wire/worn insulator somewhere.

I have not had a chance to check my FSM for wiring to and from the switch. You should use a VOM to check for continuity to ground on each pin of the switch and wiring that goes to it. I believe it may be your back-up light circuit, because when you put the lever in R, it blows the breaker, yet the turn signals work in any other position, indicating that the turn signal circuit is fine. You also stated that you do not have back-up lights, and never did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Son of a B....

Since I installed the new turn signal switch plugged in but not installed on the column (just dangling under the dash), I have had turn signals but of course no back up lights (see details in prior posts...).

Last night I put the panel back on so I would stop kicking the Switch and wouldn't you know it, NO TURN SIGNALS!!!! AAArrrrggggg!!!!

The fuse is fine, so I pulled the panel and the switch tougue thing was moved over, so I moved it back to the park position, replaced the fuse for good measure, but still no turn signal.

So, my question is, how do I test the backup bulb sockets?

Anyone found a wiring diagram yet to tell me what wire(s) to start diggin through?

TIA !!!
-Brent
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nothing?
No one can offer help?

I really need to get turn signals back before I get a ticket in highway traffic!!!
:(

-Brent
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OKay, something is going on?!

I went out and tried the hazards and they work fine (allowing front and rear lights to blink). The Fuse is not blown nor does it blow like it use to when the netural safety switch selector is moved to and threw the reverse selection.

Here is what I do know...

1. The hazards work when ever I want.

2. The rear backup lights do not work. (I really am less concerned with them at this point)

3. When the head lights or parking lights are OFF and I move the turn signal to the right or left, the front lights DO NOT light up, rears do nothing.

4. When the head lights or Parking Lights are ON and I move the turn signal to the right or left, the front lights light up, they do not blink, but just light up and the rears do nothing.

???
-BRENT
 

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I looked at a general wiring diagram, and the gear selector switch is on the same circuit as the turn flasher and the backup lamps. It is the only common part to the circuits. If it is shorted to ground internally, it will blow the same fuse that works the turn signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fred can u please share with me the diagram? im desperate for a fix !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I unplugged the TSS (turn signal switch) and hooked my other one back on and the same results as the one installed in the column, so at this point I think we/I can rule out the internal parts/installed TSS. right?!

I guess I am totally confused why the headlight switch plays some sort role in the problem?

Again, if you don't mind can I please see the wiring diagram you are looking at?
 

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The diagram is in the Haynes Manual available at your local parts store. It is also in the FSM, but I do not have the 94-96 FSM, so I am relying on the Haynes. It is usually pretty accurate, but does not have a lot of information. If you are going to work on your car, you should have the FSM, but if you do not, at least get the Haynes Manual.
 

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I unplugged the TSS (turn signal switch) and hooked my other one back on and the same results as the one installed in the column, so at this point I think we/I can rule out the internal parts/installed TSS. right?!

I guess I am totally confused why the headlight switch plays some sort role in the problem?

Again, if you don't mind can I please see the wiring diagram you are looking at?
Did you ever find the problem
 
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