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Discussion Starter #1
So I fried my amp. I have a battery wires in series to a battery in my trunk. In between the two batts I have my fuse within 12" from the first batt.
Then from my second batt, I am directly wired with no fuse to the amp, as of now (no amp yet)

Do I need a fuse/breaker between the first and second battery? Or can I take my fuse from the first batt and run it between the second batt and my new amp coming?

It is rated at 120amps, and I plan on running another amp thats rated at 80 I think. Should I get a 200amp breaker to run before the amps?
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Where are your batteries? If one is in the front and the other in the rear you need both batteries fused in case the wire between them shorts out you want burn up your car. Trust me when I tell you that when even a small wire heats up enough to burn the plastic it will catch the car on fire. I've seen it happen.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
No offense... but THAT... IS A HORRIBLE IDEA. You actually need another fuse between the batteries. You need one right after the front battery and then another right before the rear battery, if you're not willing to do this you might as well torch it yourself.

Also, you said you had the batteries in series... if you did you would be running 24V...
 
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Discussion Starter #4
lol, my bad...when I post these ideas I am at work and rushing so as not to get caught using the computer...lol

Batts ARE parallel in 12V and one is in the trunk, so I do need to keep my fuse under the hood where it is now...

The question I guess I have is....

Do I need to match the fuse size to the fuses in the amp (120amps)???
Or can I run a 60amp fuse between the batts, and then a bigger fuse after the second battery?

I guess I know my own answers, besides the fuse size between 1st/2nd battery.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
run a fuse big enough to handle whatever the amp can pull. If you have the ability to pull 120 amps, Then put 120 amp fuse wherever you have fuses in line. I have a 200 amp fuse up front and a 120 going to each back battery. Then I have one battery connected to my bass amp and one battery connected to my high amps. Never had a problem. You also want to make sure the cable is big enough to handle the loads you are putting through them.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Im running 4awg, and I guess I need to buy at least a 120amp breaker and fuse

was trying to avoid buying more stuff
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I would use fuses, breakers have occasionally welded closed... not good...

Probably would never happen.... but fuses>breakers in my book.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I ended up just getting another ANL fuse holder and 2 200amp fuses...although I think my current ANL holder is for mini.fuse was B1G1free tho
 
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Discussion Starter #9
on a 4 gauge wire I'd stick with 150A fuses of less to err on the safe side.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
The purpose of fuse(s) is to protect both the wire and the component, so in the event that your rear battery goes dead, then currents will be pulled from your front battery, and in such a case can be enough to overheat your 4ga wiring, so your short answer is to fuse your 4 ga for 120 amps... the max that your sub amp will draw, I have only seen spl systems have their highs/mid amp draw max current.. personnaly, in my system, I started out with a budget and got my wiring free... used to work for a stereo shop, but anyways, I initially used 4ga for my highs amp, then i grew my system to include a box, a 2500d orion, 2 10" h2 subs and the high amp which is orion8004, now that amp isnt drawing max current, and the sub amp is drawing mostly from the batt in the trunk a yellow optima, but i have had to add power wiring incase i did have a large load drawn from the alt/front batt... so i have (2) 4 ga power wires going aft... that was less expensive, read free, than having to buy 0/1 ga wire... read as 4.50 a foot. but do what you wanna do.. my .02 is worth this..

use 120A fuses, at both batteries for the length fwd/aft, and fuses to ya amps at the amp value, because if your wire shorts to body, the front fuse will blow, but the rear will still light your b body up like a christmas tree... and a 4 ga fuse holder is only like 20 bucks, if you blow a fuse, install another 4ga power line from front to back.
*edited for correct grammer*

[ 01-29-2007, 07:21 PM: Message edited by: Ninety6ImpalaSS ]
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry forgot one thing.... Make sure you add the same size ground wire from your battery to chassis, if you have 2 amps and use (1) 4 ga power to each, then you will need 2 grounds from your amps to the battery in the back and 2 4ga grounds to chassis in the trunk and 2 4ga grounds to chassis in the engine bay... you have to balance your power circuits... this is the most overlooked thing i have seen in cars done do-it-yaselfers.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Ninety6ImpalaSS:
The purpose of the fuse is to protect both the wire and the component,
Not really. The fuse is there to protect the wire, period. The component is fused internally,
and thus protected that way. The fuse for the feed (wire) should be placed as close to the current source as possible. It the fuse exceedes that recommended for a given wire size, dont even bother with the fuse, your not doing anything. You would of course have a great fire starter if something should go wrong.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks B-body guy(thumbs up) I dont mean to misinform. I wasnt clear enough when I made that post, what was intended was to say that fuses in general, protect wires and components, in this case the wire if the amp has internal fuses, although I have seen amps that didnt blow the internal fuse when overheating but blow the feed instead.

And in all cases, make sure you fuse correctly for the size wire you are using. and use a fuse at each end if you have 2 batteries... since the rear battery will still be live if the front fuse blows, and vice versa..
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I appreciate the informatinon...I once learned the whole fuse size vs wire thing years ago but forgot. Just ordered a few 120amp fuses and will be running 1 before each amp, (after the 2nd battery), and one after the first battery. I should be good. Now I have spare 200amp if I upgrade to 0awg

[ 01-30-2007, 01:09 AM: Message edited by: k gee™ ]
 
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Discussion Starter #16
If you fused it that way you still missed a fuse. Look at the post above. You still need one just before rear battery.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Well I dont think I am gonna run 4 fuses...I'll manage with the one after the second battery since for now I only have one amp and am not sure when I will install my second amp.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
You do not need a fuse before each amp, you just need one at each current source, as close to that source as possible. No need for one right before an amp, the amp fuse is sufficent.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Re read my post above, you need 2 fuses on that 4ga wire from front battery to rear battery. You have to protect that 4 ga wire... so what you should end up with is front battery, 120A fuse, wire run to rear battery, 120A fuse, rear battery, 4ga to amps if they are fused internally. then you need front battery 4 ga grounds to chassis rail, and 4ga grounds to rear chassis rail from rear battery. and grounds to amps from battery in rear.
hope this helps... but dont forget the rear fuse cuz youstill have 110amps of power in the trunk!
 
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