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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Autozone has a pair of these for the roadmaster wagons for under 50 bucks, does anybody run them on thier car. I am trying to get the back end of the car up a little more that class 3 hitch is pretty close to the ground, espically when I tow. I am looking to get the rear end up quite a bit, not just for towing, but for everday driving too, and heavy loads comming from lowes and the home depot.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Or if there is a lift kit available for these wagons, send me the link. A lifted wagon on 32's would be the ultimate Road Rage Vechile, and conservation piece at Indy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As I mentioned on a post earlier I was thinking about Air Shocks for the rear. I just don't know how the ride would be?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got them on mine. They work fine with or without the factory system. One bit of advice, the air valves will point out not in as on the factory shocks. Also, soak the nuts on top with penetrant for a few days before trying to remove them. You'll need a 1/8th inch tee to connect the air lines either way. If you don't have the factory system, you can run seperate lines for each side and use them as a poor mans sway bar.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Man those top bolts are a PITA, I put new Cargo sptings in there too. My car now looks like a raked hot rod, I test everything out on a 2000lb lowes run, I need more wood burning pellets form my stove, it is cheaper to buy the ton. Last time back, I was damn near pancaked(frame sitting on the ground)
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I used some Monroes and manually fill them since the compressor died you should see what a bunch of roofing materials can do to ride height! :eek: Even with 100PSI in the shocks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
little trick to changing out the front shocks is hammer on a socket one size smaller than the nut your taking off. AKA 15mm nut 14mm socket. Then take a LONG extension and pull back and forth HARD!. You will either snap the stud off or remove the rust so the bolt will come right off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That works great on front but it is the rears we are talking about here. I found a 1/4" drive ratchet to be the way to go to hold the nuts, and on reistall put the bolt in fron top.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dropped the lower bolt, removed spring, and used a LONG extension and small open end wrench on top. By removing the spring, you have a little more room to get up inside the "pocket" under the car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i cheat on the top rear,. i remove the bottom nut slide the shock to the side abit,.use an impact and long extensions and tighten them down till they twist off,. then new bolts dropped in from the top,.(taking the spring out helps too)
nick
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have them also just in case I need to tow my trailer in case my van breaks down but have never done it yet.

I don't keep any air in them because the ride is much harder than normal so I leave them empty.
 
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