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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New pads,rotors calipers, EVERYTHING all the way around.
(MY FINGERS ARE KILLING ME)

ABS light on the dash will not go off.

What did I miss? do I need to reset something?
 

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EVERYTHING? Bad sensor/wire? There's at least 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It stays on even when you are not rolling?

Yup, stays on all the time.

You think I could just unhook the battery? Would that reset everything?

I'm used to working on old cars and some of this electrical stuff baffles me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
EVERYTHING? Bad sensor/wire? There's at least 3.
Everything brake wise except the lines etc. Rotors calipers pads bearings etc.

Would the OBD tell me if it was a sensor,relay or wiring problem?
 

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Doubt un hooking the battery would do anything to help, usually and going on memory here, if the light is on all the time, one of the sensors or wiring is bad or disconnected, I would think if this is the case then the connectors on the front rotors, should be in the engine bay, has become disconnected or something like that I will do some research and see what I can find for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've poked around in there looking for anything obvious, but being old (43) I'm easily confused by anything built after 1980:)

Lost ball in high weeds.

All that wiring looks like spaghetti to me, but I'm learning.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Description of light
This lamp will be illuminated when the ignition switch is placed in the
ON position. The lamp may be illuminated for as long as 30 seconds as a bulb and system check. If lamp remains illuminated or comes on while operating the vehicle, a problem in the anti-lock brake system is indicated. When lamp is illuminated, place ignition switch in OFF position, then restart engine. If lamp still remains illuminated, the anti-lock brake system should be serviced. The brake system will remain functional, but without the anti-lock function. After servicing the anti-lock brake system the lamp will automatically reset. On some models it may be necessary to operate vehicle at a speed over 18 mph to reset lamp.
 

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New pads,rotors calipers, EVERYTHING all the way around.
(MY FINGERS ARE KILLING ME)

ABS light on the dash will not go off.

What did I miss? do I need to reset something?
Question: Was the light already on before you started the brake work, or did it only illuminate after completing the job?

Question: Is it safe to assume the replacement rotors are correct for the application and DO have the ABS tone ring (notched wheel) on the inboard side of the hub?

The rear sensor is not something you would normally disturb during work on the rear brakes, so I'm thinking one of the front wheel speed sensors is involved.

There is a connector for each sensor--just follow the harness away from the sensor (mounted in each knuckle/spindle) and you'll find it--a white plastic sleeve over the harness that can be separated to access the 2 pins/plugs that make up the circuit. Do some basic continuity checks on both front sensors and compare the results side-to-side. Beyond that, you'll need to dig deeper in the FSM or some online source like AllData.

As far as I know, ABS is a stand-alone system, and is not something you will be able to pull a fault code via OBD.

Hang in there, we'll help you figure this out!!!
 

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Ok some more information, you should be able to put a jumper in the DLC connector under the dash to see if you have any ABS codes, by counting the flashing lights, at least it would indicate this a little in this clearing the DTC's without a scan tool description, but I am not finding the correct pinout to test this correctly, the connector is numbered not lettered in the car so where it says A and H in the description below I am not sure where to connect. I think that I found it though, you will have to jumper pins 4 and 9 as seen in the attached images. but again I am not totally sure this will work. Some other things to looks at are attached.


DIAGNOSTIC LINE PROCEDURE
Turn ignition switch off, then attach a jumper to DLC terminal "H."
Attach a jumper wire to DLC terminal "A," then connect both jumper wires to each other.
Turn ignition switch to the "RUN" position.
Disconnect jumpers for approximately one second then reconnect jumpers for no less than one second intervals taking them apart briefly between intervals. Repeat this action four times within 10 seconds, leaving jumpers connected upon completion of the fourth interval. Check ANTI-LOCK indicator. Only Diagnostic Trouble Code 12 should be present. If not, diagnostic trouble codes have not been properly cleared; begin clearing procedures again. If diagnostic trouble codes are cleared, wait at least 15 seconds before turning ignition off.
 

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......Question: Is it safe to assume the replacement rotors are correct for the application and DO have the ABS tone ring (notched wheel) on the inboard side of the hub......
Fact: Pretty much every aftermarket rotor for our cars will NOT have the ABS reluctor. Unless you bought replacement GM rotors then you're probably don't have this ring; but with luck, you can detach the rings from your old rotor and attach them to the new rotors.......

Best of luck!

KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow!

You guys are awesome!

The rotors have the rings, so I'm good there. I'm gonna print this off and see what I can figure out tonight.

Thanks again guys,

Bobby
 

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I have SSBC replacement rotors on my car and they have the ring on them......
I have had the Force-10 set for almost 12 years ;) .

What you will find is that when the time comes when you buy replacement rotors from SSBC, the rotors they'll send will NOT have reluctors.

At least........mine didn't.

KW
 

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Just a heads up you will have to take your car into a shop to be scanned as the 95-96 ABS units can not be jumpered to get the codes. Also no consumer grade scanner will read the ABS codes, only the likes of a Tech-2 or other professional grade scanner can read them. The jumper method only works up to 1994 for the ABS system and up to 1993 for the engine codes. - Peter
 

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....
As far as I know, ABS is a stand-alone system, and is not something you will be able to pull a fault code via OBD.

Hang in there, we'll help you figure this out!!!
I've used the OBD on my FWB to trace numerous bad sensors/cables Bill. IIRC the diagnostics are pretty helpful and maybe gives 2 failure modes per wheel.

Alas, I have never had a bad one yet on the Impala SS to know whether that car holds ABS codes too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you leave the key on during any of the R/R or bleeding procedures?

Maybe, don't rememeber. Had it in neutral for a while, so probably.
 
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