Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on my Camaro but it's a Roadmaster LT1 so I hope no one minds. I had a fuel solenoid, the N2O hose and a bottle left over from an old NOS plate system, I also had a new Compucar N2O solenoid that I got from Ernie Wrenn. Ernie owned Compucar up until recently, he gave me the solenoid to use in an experimental fuel fuel setup for one of my gas turbines. Ernie is hooked on turbines big time, he should be showing up at the drag strip with a jet car next season. I had some free time so I made my own N2O nozzle and added it to the other parts I had and put it on my LT1.

The nozzle should support about 200 horsepower. Inside the cross piece that the solenoids screw on to is where the jets go. I made the jets myself too. The fuel goes in and past the outside of the center core and out 2 holes that point down. The N2O goes in through the center core and exits through 2 holes drilled in the side of the little nub on the end. The N2O holes are in line with the fuel holes, when the N2O comes out it just shreds the hell out of the fuel stream. I found a jet calculator on line, I had the correct drill bits to make a set of 95 horsepower jets, .045 N2O and .025 gas.

My son and I just tested it, it seems to work pretty good, we hit the button in first gear at about 3500 and held it until we got up to about 100 mph. It definitly pulled a hell of a lot harder. I had datamaster going and as soon as I hit the button I could see the PCM pull about 10 degrees out. This is with regular gas and that's a little more than what it pulls out normally, it crept back until it only had about 7 degrees pulled out but it counted a few knocks so it popped back to about 10 degrees and hovered between 7 and 10 for the whole run. Does this seem about right or should I start pricing new pistons?

Both O2 sensors stayed rich so I guess I didn't go lean. I'll have to put some good gas in it and try it at the dragstrip. I have an ON delay I'll use with a WOT throttle switch. A little delay and it will come on right around 3000 rpm after I leave the line. I'm planning on a window switch in the near future and maybe a low fuel pressure cutoff switch. If it works ok then I'll make some 150 hp jets, and when I get enough money to break stuff I'll probably make a set of 175 or 200 hp jets.

I can remove the whole setup and change jets or whatever in just a few minutes. I made a little fuel filter that can be seen in the line between the fuel solenoid and the fuel rail. Don't let those little plastic hoses fool you, I've burst tested them at 200 psi, they're used in the lasers I work on and they last for years in some pretty harsh enviorments.

I still have that huge plastic first base from the Roadmaster, I guess I'll put that back on to hide the whole setup. Then I'll act like an idiot and insist the car has a Buick engine, time to sucker some rice burners. :D :burnout:

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think you should see any knock or knock retard so you are probably rattling the engine.

Haven't you taken a bunch of timing out via the PCM programming for your nitrous hit, (or a retard ignition box?). -2deg per 50hp nitrous shot. If you jet for 200hp then take out 8 deg.

If your nozzle seems to be working then I say good job on the crafting.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't do anything with the pcm program. I guess I could take a few degrees out but I wanted to avoid that. I found some plans for a window switch that has a soft hit, it pulses the solenoids at a set rpm and ramps them up to 100% at a set rpm. I guess if I give it a soft ramping up it will give the pcm more time to pull the timing out.

As far as aftermarket ignition goes, could I use something like the MSD digital ignition box? It has an input for timing retard. I've never seen anyone connect an msd box to the optispark and stock coil.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you know of anyone who runs their engine to distress so much so that it rattles and detonates to cause the PCM to pull timing out as a safety? (besides you?). That is my question.

Or in other words, most go the safe route and buy an igniton retard, (the MSD will work as long as you get the one for the LT1 with the plug and play wire harness).

It seems to me that your engine will run stronger without detonation and with full PCM timing and will live longer, (if you retard the timing with the box during nitrous hits).

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see your point Carl. I guess the first thing to do is try again with some better gas, then I'll take some timing out. I've never messed with the timing, i have access to tunercat and lt1edit, is it difficult to take the timing out? pardon the noob questions.

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's pretty easy to take timing out via tunercat. The tables are
Main spark advace vs. rpm vs. MAP
Extended spark advance vs. rpm vs. MAP

subtract the timing in the 80 to 100kpa area and at the rpm area you will be shooting Nitrous.

This PCM method works best if you have 2 PCMs because you'll want your full spark advance for normal driving so you swap between the 2.

Or forget the PCM and just use the ignition retard devices most popular.

Also try to get your engine to run with zero knock retard. If it is pulling timing then someting is wrong. Good gas may be all that is needed.

Check out Mike Thermos' tech articals on Nitrous.

web page

He pretty much invented NOS along with a few buddies and so is probably the best person to learn from. I only try to type what I've learned by reading his stuff.


PS: haha, trying to get a rise out of me by using a C for my name? Or is it subconcsious.

Discussion Starter · #12 ·
...because why reinvent the wheel?
Do you guys know who turbochris IS? Are you familiar with a little TV show called Monster Garage? I think he has pretty good fab skills. If you can make something, why buy it?

I am suprised he doesn't have a turbine-powered Caprice by now :cool:

Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by jayoldschool:
I think he has pretty good fab skills. If you can make something, why buy it?
I'm not doubting anyone's fab skills, but to fab a device that controls the mixture of nitrous and fuel going into your motor? I'd leave that to the companies that have plenty of test engines to blow up on the dyno :D

Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Chris any update on this setup?/ i sent you an e-mail but got no reply,. is your e-mail addy still the same as listed in your profile?

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.