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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a wagon for sale that I'm going to look at tomorrow. It's a 95 Roadmaster. Are there any specific things that I should check out? Certain problem areas that pop up with these cars?

Thanks.:)
 

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off the top of my head i would say remove the rear panels and check for water build up or rust, check all windows work correctly and drive it for sure, its gotta shift correctly. the 4l60e will get you everytime and isnt a cheap fix.
 

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Your not in Okie are ya? Theres one in B'ville for a decent price. I;m going to try to look at it tommorow if work and the weather cooperates. Damn rain:(
 

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Here are some rust areas to look out for...if buying something sight unseen (like Ebay) you should always request pictures of these areas if you can.

AC Drain Issue

There is a little rubber elbow (at least on the 94-96 Wagons) on the passenger side firewall that allows water from the AC to drain out.

Most wagons are missing this...also, even if you still have the elbow attached, water can not drain properly.

Lift up the front passenger side footwell carpet and look for rust. Sometimes it can be so bad that you can see rust eating through from the underbelly on that side. This water can also lead to mold in the carpet and pad

You should add a length of tube to the elbow so that the water can drain properly under the car.

Some folks say the whole AC drain thing is BS. But I have seen this happen personally and added the hose to divert the drain water....and no more wet carpet.

Front body to frame mounts

These are known weak areas on the wagons (and likely sedans) Crud collects in this area and rust can weaken the body area. These mounts are located at the bottom of the firewall/top of frame and can be viewed from under the wagon.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project WWW/IMG_7576.jpg
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project WWW/IMG_7581.jpg

Rear Wheelwell area

You will likely need to remove the wheel to get a good look...but one can feel around and see if any rot is present. This is the area above the frame in the rear wheelwell. Some rot can be minor, but soemtimes it can go all the way through to the inside. Look carefully...and if you see some (as in the pic below) Poke at it if you can to see how deep it goes.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project WWW/IMG_6814.jpg

Tailgate area and D pillar

Look for rust in the tailgate jamb and under the tailgate door. Look around the hinges carefully and pull out the taillights too. Pull up the top of the bumper cover (just push clips holding it in) and take a peek under there as well.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project WWW/roady11.jpg

The D pillar can be nasty...peek behind the tops of the taillights to see if any rust is bubbling. If it has...that whole area must be cut out/replaced to fix it right. Might not be the wagon for you. Look to see if that area has been repainted. If it has, ask how the repair was done. I have seen the results of the "bondo" repair. The bubbling always comes back.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/SS_FORUM/LongRoof_Forum/RobsCar047.jpg

B Pillar area

This is also another common area that can rust out. Check carefully and pull back the plastic trim as well.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/SS_FORUM/LongRoof_Forum/B-Pillar.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to write down the areas to check out tomorrow. I only saw the outside of the car today as the guy had to leave before I arrived, and it looks pretty clean from the outside with no visible rust. Only a couple of scratches and a little bit of rust on the underneath, near the gas tank area. Nothing serious. Tomorrow I'll get to check out the rest and to drive it.

The car is located in N.Y.
 

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Rust is relative.

To a Georgian, a rust free car is one where the original paint on the frame rails is just starting to fail, while a New Yorkers idea of rust free is if you can only get 2 fingersto fit into that hole in the frame rail, and it passes the "screwdriver test" (Y'all know what I mean:))
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually, the car was pretty rust free. The only rust was a little cover rust on the gas tank straps and the metal bar that's by the rear bumper. All of the other typical rust areas were very rust free, even most of the frame had all of it's original paint on it. I was surprised. Usually the city cars fare better as we don't get as much snow/salt as upstate N.Y. does.

I wound up passing on the car due to a bunch of other problems it had. The tranny had a pretty decent leak and the fluid was a little burnt. The exhaust was pretty rotted and had a leak. The battery area looked like it had an acid leak in the past and it was starting to eat away at the metal in that area. It also had leaking valve covers. None of the problems were too bad, but all together they add up.

I'll keep on looking. :)
 

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Rust is relative.

To a Georgian, a rust free car is one where the original paint on the frame rails is just starting to fail, while a New Yorkers idea of rust free is if you can only get 2 fingersto fit into that hole in the frame rail, and it passes the "screwdriver test" (Y'all know what I mean:))

Absolutely. The only rust on my 94 Caprice is the driveshaft and differential. If i ever sell this car I plan on delivering it to wild-eyed Yankee (I'm originally from MN) who is so eager for a southern car that he gives me his first born son.
 
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