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I used 1X1/4 inch strap and welded the two pieces to a one inch square tube. I was strong enough. I would just add a length of round or square to it and not worry.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Your yoke wrench should be strong enough, but I would put the 4th bolt in the yoke. The ones that collapse are only about 1/8 inch thick. The one I have is about 1/8 inch thick, but has a pipe welded on to it through the middle of the pipe. I used it, and it worked fine. The issue with the ones that rip out the hole is that they are too thin. You could weld a piece of steel tubing to it ( cut a slot in the tube). Make the tube about 3 ft long. You will need almost every inch of it, unless you are Hercules.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I got a bothersome question about the carrier bearings spacing that is bothering me. My inner ring (Trutrac mod) carrier bearings are a bit narrower than the width of the arbors on the carrier. Probably .030. As I’m watching different videos on set up bearings, I’m seeing guys make set up bearings for the carrier bearings too. I’m assuming people are shimming the carrier bearings too? Why else would anyone want setup bearings for the carrier? My ultimate question is if I press my bearings on my carrier, is there a chance I’m going to have to shim between the carrier bearings as well? I don’t want to have to take those back off after pressing them on. My knowledge tells me carrier bearings “can” be shimmed (Within the amount the arbor sticks out) if one wants too and it will work either way. It’s probably nicer to have the really thin shims already behind the carrier bearings while eliminating the chance of them bending when tapping them in? Anyway, what do you guys think about this. There is a different video of another guy with a 95-96 caprice that installed the Trutrac Diff. He says in his video his original spacers worked. I’m guessing mine should work or at least be pretty close. Is he not supposed to reuse the stock spacers? If I’m not mistaken, from my understanding, I’ve read in the FSM that the original spacers are cast and not to be reused because they can crack and “service shims” are to be used. I’m guessing service shims are made of non cast material and no difference other than that and size obviously. Can anyone shine some light here? Should I not worry about shimming between carrier bearings and diff. And can I (do most people) reuse their factory spacers if they work like this guy in the video or should I just make my own stack with my kit and buy more if needed? I kind of like having a thick spacer vs many. My left spacer is .234ish and right is .249ish Thanks. Here is the video.
 

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I did not put shims between the bearings and the Truetrac. I put all of the shims on the outside. The shim kits came with 4 thick shims, and a bunch of thin ones. I used as many thicker shims as I could (4), and then thinner ones, making sure I had some that could replace one on each side with one measuring 0.006 more than the ones I removed (preload). By putting the thin shims on the outside, it gives you more chances to find a replacement shim that is 0.006 thicker for attaining proper preload. I ended up buying a few sets until I got the ones I needed. I measured each one, and kept them together by size. If I recall, it took about 0.042 shim thickness on top of the two thick shims on each side before preload.

Don't be afraid to push the carrier to one side or the other to facilitate getting the shim stacks to compress a little while installing them. I put the thin ones in first, and one thick one between the thin shims and the case, then pushed the other thick shim in between the case and shim stack. The shim should go in with finger pressure or a light tap with a plastic hammer. You only have to push a thick one in on one side. Once you have the mesh close, you can remove one thick shim, and make adjustments to the thin shims, then push the thick one in again. In the final assembly with the preload shims installed, I found that by using the bearing cap over the thick shim, I did not damage the shim with a hammer.

If you can not get the exact 0.006 on each side, you can set your lash either 0.001 or 0.002 plus or minus, and put a total of 0.012 in shims to preload, knowing that the lash will change in one direction or the other. As long as you stay within the lash tolerance 0.005 to 0.012, you will be good to go. The FSM says 0.005 to 0.009, and my local experts say 0.009 to 0.012, so I included the whole span. I would try to stay around 0.009. I set mine set up at 0.009, and it moved to 0.010 with the preload shims installed. I added 0.006 on each side and it still moved 0.001 to the left.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Got a question here: As silly as it may sound, I’m having trouble deciding what Gear lube to buy as I’m getting close to needing at least Starter lube to lubricate my test bearings for preload. The Trutrac manual says to use a high quality mineral GL5 rated lube with the “least” amount of friction modifier. The reason why I’m having a problem deciding is because I “can” find GL5’s but they all have this wordage of what’s in it to make it a great product. I’m no chemist so simply stated, what lube do I use that’s going to qualify for the trutrac and not hurt my timken axle seals and bearings (purchased last night) and timken (already purchased last night) pinion seals? I was looking at a basic GL5 rated AC Delco gear lube that is advertised as what comes in stock vehicles at the factory. I’m guessing that additives (which are left out in open diff circumstances) are not in the AC Delco GL5 bottles until somebody adds them into their own specific applications. Can somebody help me choose a gear lube that will compliment my Trutrac, Motive Gear, and Timken Seal and bearing build vs work against it? Will the basic AC Delco GL5 be sufficient as performance brands seem to have a list of additives written on the bottle side-temp reducers etc. Note: the Truetrac manual also says make sure To check with the gear and bearing manufactures to see what lubeis called for. I can’t find one that says mineral on it. Shouldn’t they all basically agree? Oh lord. 😂 Thanks. Good day.
9956103D-91FB-498F-8A2E-BBA399266DB8.jpeg
 

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That is basic rear gear oil. The OEM fluid will work, as well as others.
 

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I agree with Fred. I think that statement is legalese . I have the same trutrac and I bought Valvoline 80W90. It's dino oil. Any quality name brand should be just fine.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Im waiting on tool/parts. And, im not trying to be negative but I just received a diff cover bolt from Rockauto that is USA made, 8.5 rear diff cover bolt because one of mine has been exchanged for one that has a different head and washer that I’d like to correct. I ordered this one because I wanted to get a matching same bolt back on with “the little flange” that is attached to the bolt head like the others. It fits .... but it is like 1/4 too short in shaft/thread length. In other words, it may strip if I torque it to spec because it’s too short. Even if it don’t strip, I feel It will eventually and I’m just giving back to the forum. I’m just putting it out there because if your trying to do the same thing as I’m trying to, it’s not the correct bolt and you will ruin the threads on these rear casings if you put one on. The numbers are on the bag. The picture shows the new Rockauto bolt, then the original bolt, then the replacement with the washer someone put on my car at some point. Good day everyone.
 

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Im waiting on tool/parts. And, im not trying to be negative but I just received a diff cover bolt from Rockauto that is USA made, 8.5 rear diff cover bolt because one of mine has been exchanged for one that has a different head and washer that I’d like to correct. I ordered this one because I wanted to get a matching same bolt back on with “the little flange” that is attached to the bolt head like the others. It fits .... but it is like 1/4 too short in shaft/thread length. In other words, it may strip if I torque it to spec because it’s too short. Even if it don’t strip, I feel It will eventually and I’m just giving back to the forum. I’m just putting it out there because if your trying to do the same thing as I’m trying to, it’s not the correct bolt and you will ruin the threads on these rear casings if you put one on. The numbers are on the bag. The picture shows the new Rockauto bolt, then the original bolt, then the replacement with the washer someone put on my car at some point. Good day everyone.
Depends on production dates.
Some 8.5s the threads come all the way to face, others they are quite a deep recess before the thread
I don't know the whens or wheres but my early 1995 housing was shallow with short bolts, both my 96 housings are resessed and use a longer bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Depends on production dates.
Some 8.5s the threads come all the way to face, others they are quite a deep recess before the thread
I don't know the whens or wheres but my early 1995 housing was shallow with short bolts, both my 96 housings are resessed and use a longer bolt
Yeah, my threads don’t start for an 1/4 inch or so into the case. There was two choices of bolt on the stores website. I don’t know if the other is the correct length though.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
The correct bolt is probably the one with the purple thread as it looks longer. It only says 8.6 and not 8.5 is why I didn’t buy that one. I thought the thread may be smaller on diameter too. Probably just an illusion from the photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Got a quick question here. Here is the “two” pinion seals that came with my master kit. The only difference I see is one has a flange on it. My old seal was a non flange type? Any explanations as to what application the flange type seal is for?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
My Ratech shim kit arrived. I’m just waiting on the sanding flap wheels to make my test bearing and gear oil. I got my yoke wrench done.
 

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I pulled the cover bolts from a same year/series (91-93) rear in the junk yard, and they did not even charge me for them.
 

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I would surmise the flanged seal is for an 8.5 in the front of a 4x4.
Look closely at the siping lines on the lip.
They suggest ,to me , reverse rotation applications.
That is my guess .

Honing the bearing with a flex hone,
You are really fighting re&re ing the bearing cup in the housing deal huh ?
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I would surmise the flanged seal is for an 8.5 in the front of a 4x4.
Look closely at the siping lines on the lip.
They suggest ,to me , reverse rotation applications.
That is my guess .

Honing the bearing with a flex hone,
You are really fighting re&re ing the bearing cup in the housing deal huh ?
I’m not really struggling with it, just waiting for the arrival of my sanding wheels to open the pinion bearing size up. Also waiting for gear oil, and dial torque wrench to arrive. The only thing I’m kind of nervous about is the Ratech kit shim sizes don’t exactly have an exact stack match with my other pinion gear shims that I’m using for set up. The two differ by .001 for the ones closest to original GM .036 shim. Motive Gear says shims need to be adjusted by .003 to see a pattern change difference so that’s good news.

My plan is to put my original GM .036 shim in behind my (new) pinion test bearing that I hone oversize. Then, pound the (new) outer race in the case, (no Ratech yet), set my backlash (Motive Gear suggest .007 to .009 for street cars) and check my pattern. If my pattern matches the Motive sample pic below that I got of their website for my ringset part number, then I will put the matching (or closest to) Ratech shim stack in behind the case bearing after pounding the race out one time. Hopefully the pattern matches close as possible unless I buy more pinion shim sizes. It kind of worries me that once I put the Ratech shims in, they have to be destroyed with a punch to get the bearing out unless I hone the outer race for all this too. I’d have to make something to chuck the race ID to spin it and sand it evenly. I don’t have a lathe. I only have a drill press and small milling machine that has a blown fuse. Waiting on the fuses too.

Most importantly, let me know if this technique of shimming the pinion until found pattern to Ratech shim swap is going to work. I don’t see why it wouldn’t other than the shim size being off a tiny bit. Maybe the Ratech will put me where I need to be but I won’t know until I get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Here are my Ratech sizes. The small writing is how they vary around the shim with my digital caliper. I can’t find my 0-1” micrometer. The big writing is what I guess they might be. It’s all reference as I’m more concerned on how they place the pinion on the ring. There is one of each size and two .o12’s
7AE00313-9D01-4B46-8F36-CED39F4C538F.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Shims from the Motive Gear rebuild kit that I may or may not use for setup. I think I should use them maybe on a second try just see and learn a little. If I can find a stack that is .039. Again, I’m guessing that it’s ok to set up shim stack behind the pinion bearing, then transfer to the Ratech method. If someone wants to let me know, it would help.
40DCAC2C-F5C3-4288-9506-768B55890C44.jpeg
 
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