Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

101 - 120 of 129 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,619 Posts
Yes it will work if you can hone the bearing accurately and the set up inner bearing is identical to the final bearing.
What i was eluding to , I have re&re'd the
outer cups without destroying the shim pack.
I put the thickest shim in first
I have aluminum bar stock that i usually use
Once it moves a bit you can get under it.
You can also fit a piece of stock that fits both reliefs so you are driving equally on both.
If the shim does get marked up a bit, when putting them back in, just before the outer race touches down line the marked up areas with the notches so they will not affect the seating.

End result , do it the way you are comfortable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #102
Ok, I received my sanding wheels and am ready to hone a test bearing. My question is this: what’s going to be the difference from using my test bearing (the extra one I bought) , from the one in the kit? The one in the kit came with the outer ring and the extra one I bought came without an outer race ring. From my knowledge of working at a bearing manufacture, the O.D and I.D of these bearings (meaning the outer ring OD diameter and Inner ring I.D diameter) are probably within .0005 or .0008 to .001 at the most from each other in size-one bearing to the next. They could be within .0004, it just depends how precise they have to be and they don’t tell us. The rollers that go in them might vary in size more than the main dimensions I said. I mentioned working at the bearing manufacture. They have different boxes of rollers that are plus sizes and minus sizes of a specific size. An example would be a 1/4 inch roller but the roller spread would be -8,-7,-6,-5,-4,-3,-2,-1,”0”1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. There would be sixteen boxes of different size 1/4 inch rollers. This because the race diameters change as they come off the machines. I’m asking this and explaining because I seen some of these rear diff videos and people saying their bearings were different. I ordered the same brand, same part number. What is the worst that can happen from one bearing to the next? Note that my complete bearing that came in the Motive kit is possibly made for each other, (the outer race matched to the inner assembly) the test bearing is the same bearing, just the inner assembly-same brand and part number. Feed back welcome.
FB30BD3E-BDB5-446B-BF0D-AD08D3A311D0.jpeg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,619 Posts
Probably not an issue between the two identical part bearings in the same outer race.
Case in point one of the cars I take care of, to change gear ratios in the trans,
I have four different shafts with inner bearings, one outer race in the housing.
When there were different brand bearings, the preload was different for all.
Now with a set of bearings from the same lot, the preload is the same set up spacer for all.

Personally, I think there will be more discrepancy from the hand honed inner race accuracy plus the fact the inner race is not a press fit changing it size probably more than the production tolerances you are questioning
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
Got the test bearing to slide on pretty close to no play. I’m going to let them both come to room temp and see how the fit is after. I’m scared to let them come to temperature while together so I separated them. I don’t want them to get stuck. Lol. I taped the bearing with electrical tape before honing it to keep the dust out like I seen someone else do in a video, slightly clamping in between two ruler sized pieces of wood in my vise. Found that holding it in my hand was easier. Also cleaned with brake clean before and after.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
Theres the wheel I used. It worked nicely. Didn’t take very long so anyone trying it, I advise just go around a few times, check, go around a few seconds and check again. Keep repeating until the bearing slides on. Make sure your holding the die grinder parallel to the bore of the bearing. Watch where the sparks are coming from so you open the diameter evenly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
Got my Por 15 quart. I can’t decide if I should paint the thing before or after building it. Maybe I can get my setup perfected, then paint it before final assembly? Any tips on that? Asking because I don’t want any dust being created from sanding after assembly. Then Also, I don’t want any solvent/cleaners on it after I build it. I also got to get to the parts store and rent the bearing puller. Other than that I think I have everything minus the control arm bushings. I’m still debating putting new rubber brake lines on the ends of the metal ones. I’m more concerned with fit than the price. Concerned with how the clips are made and if they are exact fit? Maybe now I might press the carrier bearings on. Did I mention I received my dial preload wrench meter as well. Was going to buy a cheap China one but they didn’t have the correct range torque for this job plus it had to come all the way from China. I iffy on that one because as it may work nicely, you never know with really cheap tools. I don’t want to take that chance.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,566 Posts
I painted my diff housing before assembly. I also used the POR15 on that. Follow the instructions because you have to put the prep on then rinse it with water. After you're done and the POR has set for awhile go ahead and prime it then paint it since POR is UV sensitive. I used VHT chassis paint to finish up and I think it looks good.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #108
Got my bearings on the carrier. The left over-old bearing inner ring that I snipped the bearing roller separator cage on just barely gets over the arbor on the carrier to seat the new bearing. I’m not sure if you guys used the old pinion inner race (shown in my picture) but that’s the only thing I had that fit. I almost thought I was going to be stuck with the bearing half on. I also retapped the old race around with a wood hammer after to make sure it’s all the way down. Can’t see no light through the crack of the seating area. The bearing spun free while pressing. The distance the arbor of the carrier sticks out after all done is somewhere around .043. That’s the .030 guess I stated in earlier posts. Can’t really hold the caliper square to the part repeatedly That’s why I guess between .040 and .045 at .043..... it is more than the .030
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
Got a question here, been bothersome. My preload is for new bearings as per FSM. Is this with and without the seal? I know I’m assembling to find my pattern without the seal. Then assembling with seal to same preload. So this tells me the seal is not factored in? Anybody? Appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,566 Posts
Help, funny you should ask that question. I had just today read something about the seal and how much it adds to the torque required to turn the pinion. It was on a 4X4 discussion and on a 12 bolt but that shouldn't matter. The member of that forum said that the seal adds about 2-3 inch Ibs to the equation.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #111
Help, funny you should ask that question. I had just today read something about the seal and how much it adds to the torque required to turn the pinion. It was on a 4X4 discussion and on a 12 bolt but that shouldn't matter. The member of that forum said that the seal adds about 2-3 inch Ibs to the equation.

Mark: Snowman-33
2-3inch lbs sounds about right. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
I painted my diff housing before assembly. I also used the POR15 on that. Follow the instructions because you have to put the prep on then rinse it with water. After you're done and the POR has set for awhile go ahead and prime it then paint it since POR is UV sensitive. I used VHT chassis paint to finish up and I think it looks good.

Mark: Snowman-33
My plan was to use the die grinder with wire wheel. Then soap and water and paint with the Por 15 be done. I’m not concerned with any lust going away from UV as long as it does not fall off. The can says “may” primer and paint. I don’t see much direct sunlight hitting the rear end. I just want it to look like I did a nice job. I’m still deciding here. This Por 15 can was 40 bucks. Not trying to be a complainer here but...yeah. I still got to make up my mind. I don’t know how important it is to clean the thing with their “prep” stuff. Taking that chance without it is not a good choice if the possibility of the paint failing because of it. The can says “semi gloss paint” “paint over rust” kind of confusing how the talk about a “top coat” after. To me I ask if it’s primer or paint. Lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,566 Posts
Help, I had posted before about how I cleaned up my differential housing. The gunk had really gotten hard. I had a pinion seal leak and the dirt on the road I used to live on caked up bad. Anyway, I had tried wire brushing and then I remembered I had a needle scaler and that got it off but quick. I know what POR costs. I bought the can just as you did and then bought the little starter kit. POR says that you have to use the prep to make the paint stick better. I don't know for sure but it sure is stout stuff once it's done per the directions. Others here may have more on this. SSandman uses a bit of the POR. If he's about he may chime in here. There is a pic of how it looks from one of my previous posts. Talking Tools Go down to the tool I made to hold the yoke.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #114
Just putting it out there. The sagging of my differential housing is about 3/8 from the centerline of the outer ends to the “holes” there on center of the cover mounting face. It says evenly on each side. It doesn’t show any leaks. Is it sagging from the factory? Or is 25 years of fatigued outcome? My Tires never wore from the inside. I’m probably going to be frowned on as I myself would recommend having it straightened before assembling it, but I don’t think as sloppy as the splines plug in to the carrier, it really is a concern as far as causing a problem. My old axles and carrier don’t show any other than normal wear, so why should I keep putting money in to it? Kind of makes you wonder how you can put close to 2 thousand in a rear end and people want to give you 4 thousand for the whole car. I don’t want to mention much money I put into it elsewhere. Anyway, end of my rant. For the record, if I’m not here complaining about how I should have had the thing straightened because it failed, then my choice was worth it and money well saved. My end wonder is are most rears out there sagging like mine here? Thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,619 Posts
Your choice ,
If you are planning on leaving it, at least set the new tru trac in with the new axle bearings and make sure the axles still DO freely slide in and out.
I am sure your old side gears probably had more slop in the posi than the new trutrac one will.

The original housing for my wagon has about 1/2 neg camber and has never been hit.
One of my others is near dead straight
The third was a little worse than yours.
That one was straightened and the tubes welded to the center.

Expert comments in ,3 ,2 , 1,,,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
Your choice ,
If you are planning on leaving it, at least set the new tru trac in with the new axle bearings and make sure the axles still DO freely slide in and out.
I am sure your old side gears probably had more slop in the posi than the new trutrac one will.

The original housing for my wagon has about 1/2 neg camber and has never been hit.
One of my others is near dead straight
The third was a little worse than yours.
That one was straightened and the tubes welded to the center.

Expert comments in ,3 ,2 , 1,,,,
I put the carrier in, not totally preloaded but just enough preloadto have both bearing cups wedged tightly for alignment. I put one of my axles in, it slides in no problems. Also, I can move the splined end up and down feeling a little bit of play. Im happy with that so I’m going with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #117
I got both races in the housing but the smaller pinion bearing assembly on the pinion doesn’t really push on. My question. It feels tight enough that if I tap it on in the housing it may not come out. does every set up have a tight tap fit? My old pinion fell off and the old bearing does not slide on my new pinion either. I want to preload the pinion so can start finding backlash but wondering if it would be a smart idea to purchase a set up bearing for the yoke side. Or should I tap it on because the fit is not that tight and I will definitely be able to tap it off? I know one can’t guarantee anything because your not here in person. But, assuming I have the correct parts, should I tap it on? I know I can probably pound the pinion on center to pop it back in the case but wondering how bad it is for the rollers to race? Need some feedback. Thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
Anyway, I dove in and gear oiled both bearings and tightened the assembly to just before preload begins. It’s pinion, .036 original shim, set up bearing and race, race and pressed by nut yoke bearing, yoke, washer, old nut. Im stuck until I locate a 3/8 to half inch driver adapter.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #119
im preloaded to 22.5 inch pounds (Photo for technique used and not exact number reading although close). I think I’m ok to start trying to set my backlash Since I’m within FSM 18 to 36 inch pound tolerance.

It’s kind of tricky getting those carrier shims in there. I don’t want to break that thin spont on the case where the oil goes through Into the axle area. Trying to decide if facing the rear in “in vehicle“ position is better than facing down. This because I see mechanics kind of gently rolling the carrier into its bearing surface.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,987 Posts
If you have the open end facing up it is easier, and will not make any difference mechanically. The carrier can not fall out when the case opening is facing up.
 
101 - 120 of 129 Posts
Top