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Group purchase: Beefy sedan tow hitches, 100% bolt-in

2899 Views 46 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Caddylack
Hey all!

In the works right now is a sedan tow hitch based on the old discontinued Draw-Tite.

These are my goals for this hitch:

1. Easy for the average guy to install with basic tools (no welding)
2. Stronger and more capable than the original Draw-Tite
3. Affordable

One of the biggest design differences will be the following:

I'm sure there are terms for this that I haven't learned yet, but on the Draw-Tite, the receiver tube is welded between two perpendicular pieces of steel. According to "my guy", it is much stronger to use one continuous length of steel with the receiver tube welded ON it.

Who would be interested in a hitch, and how much is it worth to you?

I hope to have a dozen of these, and I'm shooting for well below $300 retail.
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This idea sounds like an answer to hitches becoming more n more NLA for our cars, so surprising no replies. I'll be attending a tranny pan leaking gasket here soon, and I'll get some snaps of my Fleetwood's 'Hidden Hitch' for your use in comparing it v. your improved design.
I think it's just a matter of forum traffic.

I feel pretty confident that I will be able to sell a few of these, as long as I can keep the cost reasonable.
I already have a hitch, but I see what you mean about the DrawTite receiver tube between two perpendicular tubes with a plate to tie it all together. I think they're made by Kurt, still available as shown here. There are a lot of applications listed, not only late B/D. Lists for $431, UHaul/Autozone sell for $200ish.
Do we know if they are actually in stock? Last time I checked, none of the bolt-in hitches for this platform could be purchased new. @Caddyshack95 had to have a hitch made from scratch.

Many sites list things, but then you place an order and find out they don't physically have it.
How are you going to recoup your NRE costs with just a few?
Let me worry about that.
Ok. I'm sure testing and certification isn't going to be cheap.
Lmao... What?
Hasn't the hitch issue already been addressed by another member here? He has both the wagon and sedan kits?

No, he doesn't. We've been through this. Do some searching.
KDS does not sell a sedan hitch.

His kits also require welding and sourcing the larger pieces of metal locally.
WOW! And once again I get my head bit off by you for trying to be helpful! WOW!
You have issues.

Nobody bit your head off.
WOW! And once again I get my head bit off by you for trying to be helpful! WOW!
When you say something that is completely wrong, how should I word my response? What did I say that was out of line?

Or is it just that you don't like being wrong?
My issues are I am growing tired of you being rude and acting like ONLY your idea is a good one! I offered up a solution that I had bookmarked and you tell me off. I am just going to leave your posts alone and move on. I do not need to get attitude each and every time I offer help. May you live a long and Happy Life Sir!
You didn't post an idea, you posted a statement that was factually incorrect.

You do this all the time. I could pull up 100 posts by you where you freak out and tell people to have a nice life.
Anyway, back to tow hitches...

I hope for this to be the highest quality bolt-in tow hitch that you can buy for a sedan.

Since shipping will not be cheap for something this heavy, I will be willing to offer delivery and "local" meet-up options in the midwest.

I am also looking into offering in-house financing on all of my products, similar to Bill Harper.
The big deal I see here is Michael sells pieces so a guy can make his own hitch .
The guy making his own hitch bares responsibility for the safety and suitability of his own hitch.
I have make one off hitches before , sure .

YOU Caddylack , are offereing to bring to market a finished bolt on product.
It's suitability, safety, responsibility , may fall directly on your shoulders.
This is where J684_201405 may come into play.
Especially in this litigation happy society we live in.

Sure a strong trailer hitch is a pretty simple endeavor to make and you think you are just selling some to your buddies on the forum,
But when good neighbor Sam has his Airstream tumble down an embankment you just know he will be looking for soneone to blame even if your uncertified hitch had NOTHING to do with it.
For the most part, all aftermarket car parts are sold for off-road use.

With that said, my hitches are intended for OFF-ROAD TOWING ONLY.

They will be great for towing across corn fields and sand dunes.
At the least, a 'use at your own risk' label MAY get you some lega protections. But may loose some customers. 95wagon beat me to it.
Who does only 'off-road towing only'... com'n..
How many of the people who remove their cats are only driving the car off-road?

When I got my Tahoe tuned, they turned off the rear o2s, and they put in writing that the car could not be driven on public roads. Then I hopped in and drove home. This is life.

I hope that when my hitch is placed next to a Curt of Draw-Tite that you will be able to tell the difference in quality and that the decision between them will be a no-brainer.
We are talking public safety here. To the point, you publicly admitted to wanting to skirt the law with your off road statement.
No, I didn't. There are 4 attorneys in my family, and I used to work for the public defender's office in my county. I am not naive when it comes to the law.

91ss said:
Visual look of 'quality' is meaningless. What grade steel? What thickness? What did the load analysis show as margin, etc etc. It is a no-brainer
The grade and thickness of the steel aren't going to be a mystery, dude.

If you aren't interested, keep it moving and find something else to do with your time.

"Public safety" is not your real motivation here.
Potentially the biggest difference between my hitch and the others on the market will be that mine uses 2 pieces where the others use 3. I illustrated this with crayons for familiarity.

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Sure a strong trailer hitch is a pretty simple endeavor to make and you think you are just selling some to your buddies on the forum,
But when good neighbor Sam has his Airstream tumble down an embankment you just know he will be looking for soneone to blame even if your uncertified hitch had NOTHING to do with it.
This is an understandable concern, but this is what it comes down to:

I'm advertising these hitches as what they are. It's a big heavy piece of metal, and you can do whatever you want with it.

Like with all aftermarket car parts, you should review your local laws and regulations before making a purchase or modifying your vehicle.

Guys, keep in mind that these regulations vary wildly by jurisdiction. For all I know, you guys all live in Mexico and you're just here in America shopping for tow hitches.
So theirs have two welds in shear , yours are in tension ?
I'm just telling you what I was told by someone who has never done anything else in his life besides work with metal. His dad was also a career welder.
So theirs have two welds in shear , yours are in tension ?
Can you elaborate on this?

I understand your point that in my design, the entire load is basically pulling on the one weld. What is the actual difference here, and how does it weigh against the additional strength of having one big crossbar?
OOPS, I misunderstood.

This is actually what the guy meant:

The receiver tube does not get welded to the face of the crossbar. The receiver tube goes UNDER the crossbar, and is welded on all 4 sides.

THEN, there will be 2 opposing gusset plates welded in, as well as the plate for the chain hookups.

MUCH stronger than the original Draw-Tite that I dropped off.
More details:

Right now we are weighing two different options as far as material. One is high-nickel alloy steel, the other is DFARS-compliant steel dipped in hot zinc.

I want these hitches to resist rust, and thus last longer.

The end brackets, gusset plates, etc. will all be water-jetted.
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