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I can build a motor faster than I can understand this HID stuff !!!

So I get clear lenses on ebay, ok, now I get a projector and a 9004 HID kit?
and that does the high-low beam ? but I have to mount the projector on the clear lenses.

I'm still scratching my head.
maybe I'll get a sylvania ultra 9004 and spend the rest of the day watching the game.

and I'm still confused because my Charger with factory HID's has a 9005 for the high beam.
 

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I can build a motor faster than I can understand this HID stuff !!!

So I get clear lenses on ebay, ok, now I get a projector and a 9004 HID kit?
and that does the high-low beam ? but I have to mount the projector on the clear lenses.

I'm still scratching my head.
maybe I'll get a sylvania ultra 9004 and spend the rest of the day watching the game.

and I'm still confused because my Charger with factory HID's has a 9005 for the high beam.

clear lense and housing check.

Buy an HID projector setup. Whether FX-35/FX-Rs, or some other Bi-xenon setup. Due to size constraints it's easier to mount one single projector then two. Cut the hell out of the bucket to make said projector fit. Mount projectors (ensure they're rotationally level). Reassembe light and install and align. You buy an HID kit based on what bulb the projector takes and for the most part all factory HIDs use D2S unless otherwise noted.


You could also get on ebay and get a 9004 Bi-xenon projector kit. $200, and they're actual projectors and they have a lock ring, that you put the projector into the 9004 socket, and there's no cutting. Not as good quaility wise as an OEM projector, but they're less $$$
 

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and I'm still confused because my Charger with factory HID's has a 9005 for the high beam.
Probably because the high beams are not HIDs.
"Putting HIDs behind stock capsules is the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly."
I like that. cwm2
 

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On one of my last Mustangs (97 GT convertible), i installed a cheap $70 HID 6000k kit i got on eBay. The quality sucked, sometimes one of the headlights wouldn't come on all the time, so i always had to play with it. Stay away from the cheap ebay HID kits, as they have cheap ballasts, bulbs, etc. I'd say spend a few hundred bucks and get a quality HID kit.
My cheap ebay set up has worked for the last 5 years. I only changed the bulbs for brighter 6000k ones for the whiteness. I had 8000k and got tired of them.

I only wish we had a better choice of projector headlights that did not come at such a ridiculous price as many have been selling them for. I mean seriously! 1000$ ?? No thanks.
 

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My cheap ebay set up has worked for the last 5 years. I only changed the bulbs for brighter 6000k ones for the whiteness. I had 8000k and got tired of them.

I only wish we had a better choice of projector headlights that did not come at such a ridiculous price as many have been selling them for. I mean seriously! 1000$ ?? No thanks.

Look at it this way. Given what was sold at $699 for a brand new setup (it's not the vendor's fault you need chrome, LEDS, halos and $500+ worth of add ons), you can't even touch that for a reputable place to do a retrofit. I have $800.00 in my retrofit.. Granted my my capsules and projectors are new, they certainly weren't plug and play with each other.
 

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I have been experimenting with everything EXCEPT HID's. The Sylvania ultra's are no better than factory OEM 9004 lamps that are 15 years old. Wasted money on those.

I tried HIR's in my truck. They are no better than old 9005's.
I also tried the Hella's blue tinted light. throws a different color, but doesn't light up the road any difference.

The only diffinative difference is HID's which came stock in my other car.

The new caddy platinium has LED headlights, reviews say less light output than HID's on the low level caddy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
You could also get on ebay and get a 9004 Bi-xenon projector kit. $200, and they're actual projectors and they have a lock ring, that you put the projector into the 9004 socket, and there's no cutting. Not as good quaility wise as an OEM projector, but they're less $$$
Quality aside, I'm assuming they work a lot better than stock and still better than the HID kits?
 

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I have been experimenting with everything EXCEPT HID's. The Sylvania ultra's are no better than factory OEM 9004 lamps that are 15 years old. Wasted money on those.

I tried HIR's in my truck. They are no better than old 9005's.
I also tried the Hella's blue tinted light. throws a different color, but doesn't light up the road any difference.

The only diffinative difference is HID's which came stock in my other car.

The new caddy platinium has LED headlights, reviews say less light output than HID's on the low level caddy.
Not sure how you didn't notice a difference in your truck with HIR bulbs. Practically everyone that is able to capture pictures of the swap shows a good amount of added light, and there should be, at over 1000+ more lumens than the 9005/9006 bulbs put out

Quality aside, I'm assuming they work a lot better than stock and still better than the HID kits?

As far as light pattern, glare control are concerned yes. I can't comment on whether or not the company put forth the same R&D as an oem optic, but when comparing HIDs in a stock housing, to these, there's no comparison.
 

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I can speak for the DDM tuning kit. No adapter or harness is necessary.

Without ordering any extra parts, they have everything to hook them up. Their own relay that gets its signal from one of the headlight sockets and a fused lead that goes to the battery.

The hi/low kit has a little extra wiring, but still comes with everything needed.

Also FWIW, I went with the 4500's and have been utterly pleased with them.

HTH
Scoob so you don't need the dual in and dual out harness if you buy a kit from them? As they include a wiring harness that draws power from battery?

SO IF WE BUY A KIT FROM DDM tuning WE DONT NEED an adapter or harness???????
 

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1st off. I just want to point out the above statement is true. When I installed mine my low beams and high beams were swapped. When I switched the cables it corrected the problem.

One more piece of advise... When you position the relay box... Make sure you put the box pointed UP. Otherwise water will go down the cables and end up in that electrical box with no place to go and eat away at the pins and connectors... Ask me how I know...



Probably going to put silicon around the connectors this time and position them in the "up" position. On the bright side this gives me a good opportunity to take pictures when I replace the harness.
 

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Alright kids. I finally got my replacement harness and I get asked all the time about how to to do the HID swap. I'm by no means good with electrical stuff but this is really easy to do.

1. Spread the harness out. If you order from DDM tuning you do NOT need the extra harness that you pay $15.00 for.





2. the last 2 DDM harness's have had the Hi/Lo switches swapped so you have to swap the Blue and Brown wires. I've found it easiest to get them out using a very small allen wrench or anything with a very small point.





3. You want it to look like this when you are done.





4. Last thing you want to do to the harness before you start trying to put it in the car is add a piece that will connect to the secondary postive terminal. Basically cut the wire with the fuse on it towards the end and spice on an extension piece. You can see mine here. The reason for this is the stock harness has this wire too short.





5. Put the bulbs in.





6. Installed bulb. (make sure it clicks in there) I was replacing the harness so I don't have a good shot of it going in just installed





7. Ballasts





8. Installed (the 2 openings left will connect to the harness





9. Remove air intake system battery and anything else in your way.





10. Removed stuff (yes I know my battery tray is rusted!)





11. I start the harness install at the 2nd postive battery post in the passenger side back by the fuse box (remember to run the cable under the coolant resiviour)




12. This is how I ran mine




13. I then hook up the balast to the passenger headlight. I hide the wires as much as I can. Just trying to make sure the connections are NOT the low point where water will sit the longest.



14. Then is another shot of the same thing. You can see here where I connected the ground cable (Top left of picture)




15. Then I hook up the relay box next to the battery near the ground.
 

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16. Now that the passenger side is hooked up, run the remaining cable over to the driver side. I zip strip mine to a few places on the bracket (can't see mine under my air intake system anyway)





17. I zipped my ballast to the top of the PCM I don't have the stock box here but there may be enough room to do this even with the stock box.





18. Enjoy your new lights!
 
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